Super Rookie Engine

[Dai Fledermaus]

After much huffing and puffing about what to build next, I've bought the Plan for a Super Rookie a 76" span powered glider by David Boddington.

As you can see, the recommended range of engines is 0.8cc to 1.5cc, but this 84" span Rookie Major flies in a spirited sort of way, which I quite like, with an OS 15la mounted on a pylon. A bit on the heavy side perhaps, but I'm guessing ( correct me If I'm wrong ) our Irish friend has got away with it because the additional weight is more or less over the CG. Boddo's original Super Rookie was fitted with a PAW 09 which weighed in at 130g.

I've got my family well trained and I'm told the Big Feller in the red suit is going to bring me some Steve Web gift vouchers for Chrimbo, so I have something of a choice of engines to choose from. At the moment an Enya 09 at 112g is my pick.

Has anyone got an alternate ic power plant I could consider?

[Dai Fledermaus]

I should have added that unlike the Rookie and Rookie Major, David Doddington designed the Super Rookie to have the engine mounted in the nose instead of on a pylon so the weigh of the engine could be a issue.

[PatMc]

An Enya 09 should be just about the right ic power for this model. However an electric setup would have several advantages but if you prefer ic I'm sure you won't be disappointed in your choice of motor.

[Dai Fledermaus]

Thanks for your thoughts PatMc

[Daren Graham - Cambria Funfighters]

Hi, just a thought, mounting engines on pylons will almost certainly cause trim changes across the throttle range, and in my experience quite big ones. If posible I'd try to keep it in the nose. I've used a lot of Enya engines and they are good little motors, also the OS 10 would be a good choice too I have to say I prefer the 10 FP to the LA if you can still find one. Very old now but bulletproof.

[J D 8]

Learned to fly with a Rookie major,first with a DC Saber and then a PAW 09 [ no throttle on either] and there was little change in trim when the motors stopped. Later I made the pylon detachable for slope soaring,a ply base with velcro on the bottom to join with velcro on sheeted center section and held in place with the wing bands. Prop safer on top.

+1 on Daren's Enya comments.

[FWAL]

A fairly recent video of a non powered Rookie. Looking forward to seeing yours Dai

[Dai Fledermaus]

Thanks for the video FWAL , the old bird flies nicely doesn't she.

Unlike the other Rookies, 68 and 84, this Power Rookie or Super Rookie as DB has called it has a two piece wing to make it easier to transport, and proportionally a slightly larger fin with a wider base and a marginally longer nose.

It's interesting to hear from people who have learned to fly with a powered glider like this as opposed to the traditional high wing, cabin, 40 powered designs which has been the traditional route. To quote D.B. it's "inexpensive and simple to build and easy to fly"

[J D 8]

Having started flying Control line and free flight, moving on to the Rookie was not a big step.An experienced flyer trimmed it out and gave advice not to fly in a wind and not to let it get to far away and left me to it.

Being such a slow stable machine early flights were just steering it around the sky and all landings were dead stick of course, often the best thing I found was to let it land its self and if this was in the same field I was well pleased.

Still have the Fuzz and Futaba M series I flew it with but the dog ate the wing.[ little git ] May well make a new wing for some nostalgic flying.

[Robin Colbourne]

Engine thrust line is important on powered gliders, otherwise as Daren Graham says, you get large trim changes between full power and idle/glide. If the engine is up on a pylon, you need up thrust, whilst on a nose mounted engine you need downthrust as the engine is well below the polyhedral wing.

In the Rookie Major video, you can see how there is no significant upthrust on the pylon mounted engine, which explains the quite alarming dive immediately after launch. fortunately the pilot catches this in time with a fistful of up elevator.

If you can pick up a copy of the old Radio Modeller book 'Radio Control Soaring' by Dave Hughes there is a lot of info on powered gliders and trimming them.

**LINK**

With regard to the engine choice, you can always choose a slightly heavier grade of balsa for the tail surfaces which will balance out the slightly heavier engine if you go with the .15.

 

Edited By Robin Colbourne on 18/12/2015 02:24:05

[J D 8]

As Robin says up thrust is vital on a pylon set up,about 3 degrees on mine After a visit to a gorse bush a solid sheet tail was fitted,a bit heavier but it flew just the same without extra nose weight.