Jump to content

spray gun and compressor


Recommended Posts

Im looking for a spray gun and a compresser,all i want is to spray fuselage and wings etc, not graphics or art work, but i want some thing decent, one or two ounces will be ample, i did have one but i lent it to some body, i think it was a Berger which was all metal with a cup on top and a needle, any suggestions gladly received. Thanks, Geoff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


To All,

I'm also a dinosaur!! A NiCad is 1.2V. Glo plugs are 1.5 V , there may be some 2V but i'm not sure. Therefore, I use a 2V cell connected to the plug and then measure the voltage at the plug. If it's too high, make the lead longer until it reads 2V. If using a mains extension lead, shorten it.

Use an Ammeter,to detect if flooding as wet plugs draw more current than dry. Put a voltmeter in as current without V means nothing.

You can see what i use, a homemade job, by accessing my photo album ( as i can't be trusted not to include naked women or similar). I've used VU meters out of a stereo with shunts and a small piece of wire to achieve the range of deflection.

Most Moving Coil meters are the same it's the box and writing that differs. There is a switch on mine as the Vmeter is in circuit constantly and shows the voltage when charging and the Ammeter shows a slight negative deflection, unless charging at many Amps the meter will not be damaged.

If i don't get some critical comments i'll be very surprised -but i assure you it works for me and has for many years now.

Geoff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Geoff ,i have a Badger 200NH syphon airbrush i use i for spraying larger surfaces as the jar holds more paint than some gravity brushes not sure of prices ,i also have a Premiair G35 for fine work. All these work of a Sparmax-AC27 compressor.Try looking at Airbrushes .com hope this helps ,

Peter yes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi I have a small gravity fed touch up gun that is fine for all my model stuff . JMO and experience , I have found the gravity fed type is ideal for our modelling type paints. Its gpod for very small to large jobs . For really big models then a bigger gun is used. A suction type touch up gun is ok but paint will have to be thinned more ;fine if its cellulose or acrylic but water based acrylic can be a bit trickier on our models . I spray water based acrylic and Ronseal varnish straight from the tin and get excellent coverage and results but if thinned it would take forever . A small compressor as sold in Aldi etc would be ideal as it can also be used for airbrushes with the use of suitable air line connectors and will give plenty of air .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies,

the Aldi air compressor, do we mean a proper air gun compressor? Because in the past i did use a half decent 12v compressor for doing tyres with and just used a spair wheel as a resevoir tank which worked pretty well, as for the amount i want to spray, i'm a bit like Gordon Whitehead used to be, his models had to fit in the back of the car ready assembled so 40" is about it and it's very unlikely that i would want to tissuse and dope wings and spray them like i used to. The gun i did have was gravity fed as the workshop floor still has the paint on from me tipping it out while sprayinglaughas for paint it will be cellulose if you can still get it, fuel proofer ( can you still get ferneglas the stuff used on furniture? It was 2 part)

Have a good weekend flying if you live down South,crying 2 cos it hasn't stopped raining up here, Geoff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I was talking about a proper compressor . They are also available on e-bay from a bout £70 inc delivery. I did make a small compressor some years ago from a Fridge compressor, not the modern sealed type but the old fashion type twin cylinder piston type .It worked fine but could only deliver about 2 1/2 CFM so I had to use a constant bleed low pressure gun . You can still get cellulose from car paint factors but its expensive these days .The new water based paint is very good and more easily obtainable . I have used that a few times on my car and am impressed although I will only use it when the temp is drying friendly (in the summer) . I haven't used the two part Fernglass , but remember the single pack Furniglass varnish , great stuff but did brown with age. I don't know if it's still available these days. On cowlings etc I use two part clear automotive laquer for IC . On other stuff like electric foam models I use the Ronseal water based varnish .Pictured is the Kyosho T33 it was plain white foam. I wiped it over with white spirit to get rid of any release agent first then sprayed the acrylic (water based ) colour then two coats of Ronseal clear varnish, Its been painted for about 8 years now and still looks smart.

The red paint is artists water based acrylic from a cheapy shop about £1 a pot and sprayed straight from the pot.Details are Humbrol brushed on

Brilliant sunshine here at the moment with hardly a cloud . But a serious blink and it can change . Good luck with spraying.

.

 

Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/03/2016 11:26:39

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...