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Waiting with interest to see if you find the answer to this one.

I had a similar problem documented here earlier this year. One speed controller was giving over 40 amps and another only 30amps with a consequent power shortfall. Theoretically they were the same capacity. No amount of calibration, stick wiggling produced any worthwhile result other than bricking two controllers in my experimentation.

Have now changed to a non contact clamp meter for measuring current.

Never did find the answer. Used the speed controller which gave the full amps and got on with life.

Expensive learning curve though.

Good luck😳

Robin

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The symptoms described sound like nothing to do with timing, they are what I'd expect if the ESC hadn't been calibrated with the Tx.

Have you calibrated the ESC with the Tx stick travel ? It needs to be done when used for the first time or/and when a different Tx is used.

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Posted by Percy Verance on 15/05/2016 19:33:25:

I kind of suspected a timing issue, but I'll happily admit my electric flight knowledge is somewhat limited. And of course just to twist the knife, the BL 20 ESC's fitted to the Easy Stars are not programmable with the Mpx Multimate I have......

It seems I'm consigned to wrestling with bleeps and the transmitter stick...... oh dear, there must be an easy way?

Lesson number 1. An easier way.

Find a good make of ESC, buy the card for it, and stick to that make when buying more ESCs.

(sorry)

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If the ESC makes the short burbling noise then goes to a series of single bleeps and nothing else its either that the RX isn't bound, the ESC doesnt have a signal from the ESC or its not been calibrated

If the control surfaces work its been bound so thats easy to eliminate

So before you get the lump hammer and 1" chisel to it, check over the ESC->RX servo lead plug for proper seating

Other than that......... I dunno

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Have you checked that the servo movement of the Tx is programmed to 100% both sides of neutral (you shouldn't have to as it's the default with Cockpit SX, or at least is with my 35meg one).

Failing that can you bind it to your own Tx as a temp measure, re-calibrate & see if that makes any difference.

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Is it worth just slipping the esc throttle lead into a spare channel, for power, and a servo into the throttle channel? This at least will visually prove full stick movement or otherwise. If ok, then extend the throttle travel beyond 100% in the tx and see if that has any effect… …or perhaps even reduce it, cannot do any harm.

However, when I’ve pottered around with this in the past I did find that going too far over the top made the esc shut down altogether!

Only just a thought…

PB

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As you have two Easy Stars the most positive way would be to change over the ESC, motor, radio one at a time until the bad one behaved the same as the good one!

It might not be easy but at least you would know exactly which bit was causing the problem. wink 2

Edited By Simon Chaddock on 16/05/2016 14:58:46

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Robin

Apologies for barging in but a picture tells many words.

Servo Tester with an ESC

The ESC is providing the 5V to power the servo tester (red wire) which in turn provides a signal (white wire) to the ESC which then controls the motor speed according to the position of the servo tester knob.

No radio link required. wink 2

Edited By Simon Chaddock on 16/05/2016 18:52:53

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As a straw clutching last resort I was going to suggest listening & counting all the bleeps with the ESC in programming mode to see if that gave any clues, then I realised the last item in programming mode is a default reset.
The default settings are probably what you'd choose for this model so if you haven't already done one I suggest trying that. Bear in mind that you may need to re-calibrate again after.

If that doesn't do the trick wouldn't it be best to take it back to the retailer under warranty rather than get into surgery ?

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