Former Member Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie sawyer Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 Well I remember using a 4.8volt battery on it initially and that would be around the time I got a one and only pop out of the engine. I did put a 6volt battery onto it but it is rated to be able to take over 6volts so I'd assume it's ok. I'm going to order a new ignition box for it tomorrow. I tried the few drops of fuel in and it's just not working. It must be the ignition system that's failing. Flipping thing lol. I'll update once new box comes everyone thanks Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 17/07/2017 19:24:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 The ignition might not be broken. it might just be mistimed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie sawyer Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Forgive me if I speak out of turn here but is everyone reading the whole thread. I'm going to buy a new ignition unit once I speak to just engines today. Reason is because some have said even though it's sparking at atmospheric pressure while in compression it may not spark. 👍 It's getting fuel obviously from the tests I'm doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie sawyer Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Agreed but I've an engine here that I can't sell on as it's not running. It's dead money in the water IMHO I have to do something and the obvious seems to be ignition Andrew. It has fuel through all the tests I've been advised to do which I've done. I've also checked all timing and adjusted trying different things. I spent nearly my whole Saturday trying it all and adjusting things to advice 👍 All advice appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 If the engine really is dead, which to be honest i think is unlikely, why spend money on it? If its new then send it back where it came from. If that is not an option the money would be better spent on sending it to someone to inspect and test. I am sure JE would do that for a small fee. if you buy another cdi unit and that is not the fault, you have thrown good money after bad and are no closer to a resolution. I have to confess that my money is still on a fuel/ignition timing issue but without the engine in my hands there is not much i can do to test that theory. Edited By Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 17/07/2017 08:58:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Hi Not sparking under compression is a known fault usually associated with a duff spark plug faulty HT lead or ignition unit. Have you allowed unit to spark without a plug  otter in the cap ? This can damage ignition unit. What spark plug is fitted ? Is it a known make like NGK ? If it doesn't have a name on it its probably a cheap Chinese plug only fit for a fishing weight or target practice at the rubbish bin. Replacing a plug is a cheaper option than replacing the ignition unit and should be ruled out first. Also as John has said the spark should occur a few degrees before TDC . If it's sparking right on TDC it's too late. Try moving the hall sensor clockwise to advance timing a few degrees. Just one more thing. You state that fuel is all over the test bench ! If a spark ignites that you will have a problem , a big problem. Do you have a suitable extinguisher handy? As an retired fireman I have witnessed the result of messing with petrol on a few occasions ,it's not funny believe me. If any of this doesn't make sense then pack it off to someone who understands petrol engine set up before you either damage the engine or worse still set it all alight. Edited By Engine Doctor on 17/07/2017 10:15:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Jamie, whereabouts are you? Maybe there's someone with petrol experience test gear and spares near you who could be persuaded to take a look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Look back to my post on the RCG 50. When I took the plug out you could almost drive a bus through the gap. Replaced with a NGK but it was still the CDI at fault. No problems since then. I would advise no more than a 4.8V pack. Most of these petrol motors should at least run straight out of the box unless you start to fiddle with them. I have bought a few YS motors (I know, a different kettle of fish), for a song because the owners started to mess with the original settings and wondered why they would not start. You can download a guide to setting up a Walbro carb from scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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