Former Member Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Hi All, Planking, planking, planking, planking and sanding sums up this weeks work I made a temp support from an orange box to help support the structure The hardest part done Battery bay made Now for the underside I was not too happy with a couple of the former spacing so I made a couple more to support the planking Once you get going it comes along quickly Finally when dry sand, sand and sand again, apparently whilst I was sanding we had a 4.2 earth tremor with it's epicentre just 7 miles away, did not feel a thing to involved in sanding. Must admit looking good. I have left out the centre section of the fuse underside planking off for now so I can wire up later. Next, sponsons. That's all for now Regards Robert Edited By Robert Parker on 17/02/2018 17:31:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 that looks beautiful Robert. i love the curves. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Amazing building, Robert. And indeed a very elegant aircraft. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 All I can say, Robert is WOW!! Fantastic effort indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 HI All, Tony, yes she is very curvatiuos indeed it took quite a bit of soaking the planking strips to flow around the framework. Thank you Chris, elegance and hopefully gracious in the air when the day comes for the maiden. Adrian, thank you I do think it is developing a wow factor. I first came across the Dornier Do 24 in a flight simulator as an add-on I cannot recall which one, quite likely to be one of MS flight simulators. I have made a start on the sponsons fairly straight forward as well as the block at the rear of the rear step of the hull. i'm starting to think about covering the model and toying with using brown paper, but having not used it in the past. I have also read that it shrinks a lot and a little doubtful with it on the fuselage not wanting a "starved horse" effect but wanting a strong finish. Any ideas or personal experiences?? Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Hi Robert, Unfortunately, I can't share anything about "personal" experience... But Richard of Warbird Replicas uses brown paper a lot and maybe it should be worth to ask him about his experiences by sending a PM. Just a thought here. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Stevens 1 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hi Robert, Loving the build so far - reminds me of my days when I used to sit and draw plans by hand too : As for the paper covering method, I have used this on balsa many times, not with brown paper but with normal computer printer paper and clear PVA Glue (the sort kids use in schools) There is a slight shrinkage but nothing to worry about so long as you don't overdo it with the glue. You won't end up with the starved effect as it is water based glue. Just take care when applying the paper and rub out any bumps or blisters (pop them with a pin if you need to help this) When it dries it is quite flat and tough over any open holes (a bit like the old tissue / dope method but better) You can easily rub down any overlaps or join edges with a little light sanding. To finish off, a coat 2 or thinned dope (very lightly sanded between each coat) gives a really nice finish for painting with no wood grain visible. A lot of people may point out the weight gain but it is barely noticeable. I'm looking forwards to seeing more of the build. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hi Mark, Thanks for the info on paper covering. Build is coming on nicely, will keep you all posted. Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hi All, Don't worry about a "float plane" she will be taking off from and landing on to the ground, take off's will be with the aid of a dolly and landing on her belly or should that be hull. Last week I did consider getting a couple of glider retractable wheels but thought again when I saw the price of them . My own design Short Stirling just airborne on her maiden flight, the Dornier will take off from here and hopefully have a better maiden than the Stirling Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Hi All, Progress has slowed a bit over the last two weeks. I have finished the sponsons and made the three blocks for the nose, 2nd step and tail. The nose block I have left the bottom until the bottom planking is on I forgot to take any photos of the sponson build but they were straight forward The 2nd step block in position. Tail block I think the fuselage is just about as far as I can take it other than to give it a coat of sanding sealer as it is getting the odd ding here and there. So next I'll make a start on the wings. That's all for now Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timo Starkloff Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 You’ve met that complicated fuselage shape perfectly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 Thank you Timo. I'm really pleased with the results so far. Now the fuselage is out of the way I can enjoy making the wings and then hoping that everything lines up with the wing connections Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Hi Robert, I'm really pleased that you're "really pleased as well"... You're having a great job done over there. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Stevens 1 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 21/02/2018 18:41:21: Mark, I would wonder if PVA glue might absorb water over time, being a float plane. Tom, not a problem once it's doped and painted, it is usually well sealed by then. I covered this balsa tail fin for one of my Helis using exactly the same method as I described. I actually got this tip from the model boat guys and have tried it out on one of my own boat builds, I used thin card instead of paper but still used the same PVA Glue. It works well as you can see, built in 1985 and she hasn't sunk yet. Probably more relevant for the Dornier being a Seaplane Mark Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 07/03/2018 02:24:16 Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 07/03/2018 02:32:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Hi All, I had a bit of a break from the Dornier over the past couple of weeks. I eventually caught up on some repairs and alterations that needed doing to a couple of other models whilst the bench was free. So with those out of the way. I made a start preparing for the wings this afternoon. Routering out the ribs for the wing connection plates, It took a couple of practices to get the depth right of for the router I am having some reservations about the strength of the rib above the flap, hopefully the top sheeting will tie it in A slight over sight on by me on not giving consideration to the dihederal on the bottom spar. So I cut off the bottom and will glue on top to take the brace I had a bit of a tidy up ready for the build. That is as far as I have got today. I ran out of greaseproof paper, (it appears to be difficult to get hold of "clear", a lot seems to be brown) so using cling film for a change. That's all for now Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 Hi All, I made a start on the wing centre section plus modified the ribs that take the nacelle side formers as I not too keen on the ply / balsa joint due to the length of the formers and the possible applied leverage stresses they might impose on the balsa ribs and possibility of material failure if knocked. The nacelle side NSI above slots between the spars and is glued to the rib. So I have glued 2mm ply to the balsa rib to strengthen it, also I will have to put the dihederal brace behind the spars and not in front to alow the notch to work as this sets the angle for the nacelle in relation to the wing. Centre section started and I have made sure that the central rib sandwich is straight and square as this will take the wing connectors. Unlike most other models there is no room for adjustment. A fraction left or right out at the centre would mean the wing tips are a mile out. Next I'll fit the leading edge and when dry I'll start the outer panels. That's all for now Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Really nice progress here, Robert. It still seems a quite complicated build to me. Not for me yet, I'm afraid. I hope to be able to start my 'simple' wing center section soon as well. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Hi Chris, I agree it is not an easy one for me either. I was hoping it would be straight forward, and it is compared to the fuselage. There are a few niggles to get around which are cropping up as I go which is expected being a design and build project. I took three attempts to get the Stirling fuselage right (drawing error, not spotted until build three) The outer panels should be straight forward nothing complicated to them just to build in some washout. Reards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 Hi All, I have managed to make a start on the outer panels. Having been hampered by carrying out more repairs to my Cessna and Chipmunk, the latter of which went in hard and in an identical fashion to my cherished Astro Hog although repairable unlike the Astro Hog, namely total loss of control on the final turn from base leg to final approach which has led me to ditch my JR PCM9X with spectrum module for my DX9. So repairs completed to both aircraft and changed over radio. Back to the Dornier and both outer wing panels started and wash out being built in. To the left the repaired Chipmunk and my "old" JR PCM9 Tapered piece at the rear giving 4mm - 0mm washout. As the top of the wing is straight from tip to tip each tip needs to be raised 31mm to achieve this. So when the ribs are dry I'm going to put a block under the tip rib and a 35mm - 0mm wedge under the trailing edge to maintain the washout and fit the top spars. I used this technique on the Cessna. Next, to add the top spars and cut out the ailerons. That's all for now Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 lovely work young sir. you are crafting a beautiful aircraft there. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 Thank you Tony, I lost a bit of motivation recently hoping to kick start it back again. I have got the rest of the week off this week so I'm hoping to get a fair bit done especially as the weather forecast is so wet so I will have to build once the wife goes back to work tomorrow and kids glued to their ipads etc So keep watching this space more to follow Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Great that you have your mojo back to the building board, Robert. Allow me a question, if you don't mind? I'm following (trying to) your explanations regarding the 4mm washout and the wing tip 'jig' to keep the top of the wing 'flat'. So here is the question: are your front & rear spars supposed to 'take' that 35mm bend? Or are both spars from the center section stopping at the rib doubler (where the clamps are) and the outer wing spars just being 'separated' pieces? Apology for the daft inquiry, but I have the same problem with Vicky's wing center section and wondering if 'separated' spars would work correctly. In Vicky's case, the 'double ribs' and spars are still held by the two dihedral braces. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 Hi Chris, I don't mind questions, the more the merrier. Glad to be of help if I can. The lower rear spar of the outer panel butts up against the lower spar of the centre section, whilst the top spars runs straight over the wing panel joint and is spiced at the wing centre. Ply dihedral pieces to be fitted at the wing panel joint to provide strength. Makes more sense in a photo. Photo above showing the panel break between centre and out wing panels, Each wing tip has to raise 31mm(at the front spar) + 4mm at the trailing edge washout to allow the wing to be flat on the top edge As for my "jigs" I have used some scrap pieces cut to size for the tips and places a 1m steel ruler across the wing to check that it is straight I have also made a large "wedge" for the washout. Top spars added and spliced and space left for the main dihederal brace along with the shear webing and leading edge. Both panels made and shear webbing added to the centre section Close up shot (the black line is felt tip pen) of the spar reduction splice joint, 6mm x 6mm reducing down to 6mm x 3mm Front spars packed apart to allow for ply brace. The main 9 x 9mm spars run into the outer panels by 2 bays hope this works. I hope this answers your question, sorry if it is a little long winded, but it has allowed me to show today's progress. Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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