Fuel proofer for petrol?

[David Rivers]

I gave just bough a traditionally built plane with a petrol engine. It has not been flown or the engine run yet.

Do I need to fuel proof the engine bay? And if so what is the best product?

I have some Jperkins hi-grade satin fuel proofer which says it is good for glow fuel and diesel, but no mention of petrol.

I am a bit worried that petrol will soak into the wood and ruin it.

[Kim Taylor]

Petrol evaporates much faster than methanol so unlikely to soak in but still leaves the oil residue, although much less than glow fuel.

I would just use a coat of 2k laquer, or something similar.

Kim

Edited By Kim Taylor on 28/09/2018 17:01:46

[David Rivers]

Thanks for the info, but what do you mean by 2k lacquer?

[Chris Channon]

I use Polyurethane varnish, not the fast drying one the spirit based varnish.
Regards
Chris.C.

[Chris Channon]

Sorry meant to add, petrol evaporates really quickly so it just leaves a trace of oil that wipes off the gloss varnish.
Regards
Chris.C.

[John Rudd]

Polyester or Epoxy resin is as good...

Edited By John Rudd on 29/09/2018 20:09:47

[John Duncker]

For an engine bay I would use epoxy resin. Warm it uo so it flows nicely.

For petrol proofing a rattle can finish they do a clear cote specifically for motorcycle fuel tanks. I had good results with this over a rattle can finish.

[Kim Taylor]

Posted by David Rivers on 29/09/2018 19:33:55:

Thanks for the info, but what do you mean by 2k lacquer?

Sorry just picked upon this.

2k laquer is another way of saying 2 pack, i.e. what the auto paint shops use.

I use it because I've got easy access to it. The suggestions above of thinned epoxy or polyurethane varnish would,I'm sure be equally good.

Kim

[cymaz]

2 part Epoxy is the way I go. I usually use and old bottle that needs finishing up, before I open the new batch

[Manish Chandrayan]

David,

The JP satin proofer, if it's good for diesel fuel it will be good for petrol too.

If you want to use something else,you can use water based PU (WBPU) that is easy to use and will withstand petrol and oil as well

[Gordon Whitehead 1]

I fuel proof engine bays with epoxy. For the rest of the airframe, cellulose is petrol-proof, and also paraffin proof for jets. I find that it's the easiest paint finish to spray and I like its quick-drying property. However, on a fabric surface, car cellulose will need plasticising other wise the finish can craze with the vibration that the fabric suffers in the airstream. I've never had proper aeromodelling cellulose craze, eg HMG dope.

After a recent horrible experience fuel-proofing a model by brushing on Aerokote which set as fast as it was brushed on and then wasn't totally fuel proof, I'm giving up on glows.

Gordon

[john s]

I use Isopon Davids fastglas from Halfords it's a polyester resin but fine for fuel proofing and reasonably inexpensive, I also use it for glassing wing joints.

John

[onetenor]

Was the Aerokote old or was the weather very warm? Either can cause fast setting.. In warm weather evening is the best time as long as there is no sign of mist which causes blooming. of the finish.. Not important in engine bays I suppose but ugly enough.

[Gordon Whitehead 1]

The Aerokote was new and applied last winter, replete with brush marks. Also, a second coat following a touch-up after an "arrival" crinkled the original finish I won't use the stuff ever again. I wish now that I'd used finishing resin.