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U/C LIGHTS


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The Turnigy switch will do the job for you. Connect the positive power for the lights -- maybe not your main motive power -- to one of the switch's big red leads, connect the switch's signal lead to your u/c channel using a Y-lead, then connect your lights' negative lead to the negative side of your power source and their positive lead to the other big red lead on the switch.

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Chris, is this the 49" Dynham Hurricane? As I cant see landing lights in the manual

With a large model, have had some success with using the electronic switch on Aux 1 or Aux 2 receiver channel

With its own power pack, so easy on off, and room to wire up and fit 10mm superbright LEDs

If this is the 4 foot span Hurricane, there is not much room as you know, but micro modelling is possible.

Have you yet to source or make lights?

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Posted by SR 71 on 18/12/2018 12:09:04:

Hi Deniis im building a 1/4 scale F104 starfighter and need some UC lights, where did you get your bright LEDs from please, i will be looking for something around 15mm

Thanks Tony

Tony, I had mine in stock from rapid online.com, but have you seen those £2 torches, with 9 superbright LEDs in

The front lens assembly can be modified, to large model u/c lights

s-l500.jpg

Edited By Denis Watkins on 18/12/2018 12:29:48

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Posted by Denis Watkins on 18/12/2018 11:07:08:

Chris, is this the 49" Dynham Hurricane? As I cant see landing lights in the manual

With a large model, have had some success with using the electronic switch on Aux 1 or Aux 2 receiver channel

With its own power pack, so easy on off, and room to wire up and fit 10mm superbright LEDs

If this is the 4 foot span Hurricane, there is not much room as you know, but micro modelling is possible.

Have you yet to source or make lights?

Yes they come with the model, landing and wing nav lights , that's the funny thing about Dynam they don't mention them in the set up manual, when plugged into the Aux 1or2 they are controlled by the Rx same with the retracts but I want them to come on when the wheels are down and off when up. By the way Hobbykingdo a nice set of lights.

Chris

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Chris, Hobbyking do several receiver controlled switches eg. this for under a fiver: **LINK**; plug that into your aux channel, and your lights into its output, then assuming your receiver is capable, set up a mix retract channel -> aux channel; play around with the settings a bit and you should be able to get the lights to come on reliably as the wheels go down. Job done!

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As mentioned somewhere above, Cree LEDs are impressively bright. I use them in some of my models as strobe lights, and in one model as landing lights.

As strobes (a brief flash, say, once a second) they don't need any heatsink, but for continuous operation they need a heatsink about 3/4" diameter. Some torches that use them, or similar LEDs, use the aluminium torch body as the heatsink.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted by Simon Feather on 18/12/2018 15:21:36:

Chris, Hobbyking do several receiver controlled switches eg. this for under a fiver: **LINK**; plug that into your aux channel, and your lights into its output, then assuming your receiver is capable, set up a mix retract channel -> aux channel; play around with the settings a bit and you should be able to get the lights to come on reliably as the wheels go down. Job done!

Just to update you all. Simon I got the Dr mad thrust. Y lead from the Aux 2 ,one goes to the retracts the other to the lights. Plugged the switch into the lights lead and it was reversed, ie lights on then wheels up and off when down, so I put a servo reverser in just before the switch and hey presto it now works ok.lights on when wheels down, lights off when up. Thanks to all on this thread for your advice.

Chris

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