Another AB Canberra

[MikeQ]

Hello

just about to start on an Andy Blackburn Canberra. Bought the short kit from Sarik.

Re the carbon rod wing joiners. Any issues using K&S Ali tube as the outer. The sliding fit is pretty good on some of the rod I've got.

Cheers

mike

PS hoping to slightly mod the kit into a B-57 looks likey

Thinking about a glass finish.

Edited By MikeQ on 22/05/2019 19:23:19

[Peter Garsden]

Hi Mike - following this as I have also built one, and my thread is on the PSS section somewhere. You might want to have a look at it - **LINK** - go to page 1.

I am sure there will be no issue with Ali Tubing - just a bit heavier and not as robust if you bend it.

Just beware the difference between the dimensions of the wood and the free plan - see my blog. If you bought the plan from Sarik you may be OK.

[MikeQ]

Hello

feel free to chip in whenever ... I’ll not go into too much detail as you guys have already nailed it really.

Ive got an Obelix to get out if the way and then I’ll start the Canberra and the Blejyck Hammer at the same time ... just to make things easy!

cheers

mike

[Paul Ashford]

Hi Mike, just found your post and wanted to wish you a good build. Started mine last year when the wood pack became available from Sarik and I can concur with previous remarks regarding the free plan. Don't worry though it all goes together well and as Andy says, trust the wood pack. It was the first time I planked a fus for more years than I care to mention, in the end I made a template for the taper but only used this as a guide cutting each one in turn. It all turned out well and I am now onto painting and trim.

It would be interesting to see your B57, I decided to go for a B(I)8 with the fighter canopy and am pleased with the result.

Rgds, Paul.

Edited By Pauil Ashford on 04/06/2019 19:34:44

[Devon Slopes]

Greetings to two more fellow Canberra builders I have not met before (Paul and Mike). My own Canberra is making slow but sure progress as recorded in my build thread (I'm much slower than Peter Garsden). Like Mike I'm also thinking about a glass finish, but it would be the first time I've done such a thing. How is your's finished Paul?

[Paul Ashford]

Hi Devon Slopes and Mike if your here. I decided to follow Andy's lead and use tissue and dope, I should state here that it must be 20 years since I last used this medium so it was a bit of a trial. However it worked but I agonised over getting a good finish. The filler primer is from Halfords (didn't have any grey) and I'm using acrilyc paint for the top coat. The whole process is not what I would call speedy! I thought about glass cloth but doubted my ability to get a good result and didn't want to spoil all the work in getting the airframe finished. Pete's idea of using film would have been better and quicker. I met Pete last year at Leek and Moorland when he maidened his model, they are my photo and video on his build blog. I haven't started a build blog, bit new to this forum, but may start a retrospective but there are some photos in Album's under Canberra B (I)8.

[MikeQ]

Hello all

posted a couple of replies but they haven't appeared.  

Your primed Canberra looks pretty good.  I'm aiming for glass finish at the moment but may well change my mind if I don't pluck up the courage.  Finding out about PeelPly was a big help on my learning to glass/spray finish journey.  Just received a bunch of Savox 255MG servos I plan to use.

I'm far from expert at glassing and have been trying to get round to master it for 20yrs.

https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=130636&p=1

Will update soon.

Thanks

Mike

Edited By MikeQ on 08/06/2019 09:25:40

Edited By MikeQ on 08/06/2019 09:26:45

Edited By MikeQ on 08/06/2019 09:31:55

[Scott Edwards 2]

Andy Blackburn the designer is a genius. He puts an incredible amount of research and detail into his designs. Stick to the plans and you can't go wrong. There's no need to second guess or change anything like most plans and kits. 👍

My Canberra from Andy's plans flies like an F3F pattern model, very pure aerobatically, surprisingly quick and fabulously satisfying to fly.

[Andy Blackburn]

Firstly, I'd just like to say that no money changed hands in exchange for Scotty's glowing (but vastly exaggerated) testemonial...

My two pennorth on the finish; the problem with dope and tissue is that you can put in a lot of effort and you can get a good finish, but it's almost as susceptible to dings as film so on a slope model (when there will definitely be some rough and tumble), you have to question the effort/benefit ratio of dope and tissue.

For that reason, I'd seriously consider film or glass/acrylic or glass/epoxy over dope/tissue. If the chosen colour scheme is film-able, then (personally) that's what I'd use, and I'd have to live with the dents.

> ...very pure aerobatically, surprisingly quick and fabulously satisfying to fly.

That would be your extremely large and unwieldy 2x version? Perhaps sir might consider the plight of the poor fool who has to launch it and provide somewhere to hold it, or at least get some sort of a grip. Otherwise I fear that we may eventually find ourselves with a low-speed piloting challenge as it pops out of my hands like a damp orange-pip...

[Paul Ashford]

Mike, apologies for jumping on your build blog but thought you might like to see a photo of the completed paint job. The comments by Andy B regarding the durability of a doped surface are spot on, the surface is easy to mark when handling in the workshop but I am pleased with the finish considering there were a number of firsts for me during the process. I would recommend going the glass cloth route. Decals are from Pyramid Models with the aircraft codes produced by a club member on his vinyl cutter, I still have to make the 3 Sqdn crest for the tail and am going to try and make a water slide transfer (another first!) Hope this spurs you on with your build. Paul

[Peter Garsden]

Looks excellent to me, and as another Canberra builder and flyer, you will be in for a treat. Perhaps bring it for a maiden to the Lleyn next weekend for the PSS fly in - for more details see **LINK**

[MikeQ]

Hello

Your model looks great ... hope mine turns out half as nice. Nearly ready to start, just need to finsih the rebuild of my Obelix plus I found some foam in the loft, just enough Obechi from a past life, and the plans for the original Obelix. So I rolled out the old foam cutter and knocked up a foam veneeered original version.

Once I get thse two out of the way, I'll start on the Canberra and the Hammer 2.4! Photos also show some 3D printed servo mounting blocks. I'll use them on the Canberra. Cost approximately 2,500 quid per pair per servo @ 10 x pairs ... or the price of putting my son through uni to do a MEng Mechanical Engineering degree. Got to be some pay back!

Cheers

Mike

 

Edited By MikeQ on 01/07/2019 22:39:41

Edited By MikeQ on 01/07/2019 22:40:56

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Edited By MikeQ on 01/07/2019 22:43:12

[Paul Ashford]

Love the Oblix Mike, takes me back awhile. Looking forward to following your progress. Paul.

[MikeQ]

Hello

finally getting round to starting this project. Anyone know if the front fuselage cross section on the B57B is the same as the EE B2. Don't have any 3views but it looks the same but thought I'd ask.

Also, on one of the builds I saw a list of 1/16" sheet. It said 16 sheets ... is that right or a typo?

cheers

mike

[MikeQ]

On the subject of tissue covering ... I still have a fair old stock of lightweight Esaki from Woodhouse but as you may know, it's no longer available.

However, Musgrove Willows do a white 'Wet Strength Tissue for Lanterns'. So far I've covered a couple of FF models (tissue over Mylar) and it's been very good and a renovated CL TopFlite Nobler ARF as a base for a KlassKote finish. Only slightly heavier than lightweight Esaki with good wet strength. Cheap too. Couple of my FreeFlight buddies have also used it, they put me on to it.

http://www.musgrovewillows.co.uk/

 

Edited By MikeQ on 15/12/2020 18:51:08

[MikeQ]

.Finally made a start. Should finish the skins tomorrow.

Some bonus  duplicate parts.  Laser cutting pretty good.

 

 

Edited By MikeQ on 17/12/2020 21:13:42

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Edited By MikeQ on 17/12/2020 21:16:27

[MikeQ]

Bit more progress today.

test fit spars and ribs. Not 100% accurate laser cutting but pretty good so far. Expected to have to ‘open up’ some slots anyway as the spars aren’t all at right angles etc.

Cheers

Mike

 

Edited By MikeQ on 21/12/2020 17:17:41

[MikeQ]

Bit of progress

slotting together quite nicely.

Enlarged the joiner holes to take a 7mm carbon tube (5mm rod).

Did and alignment check of tube and spars and will sort tubes before moving on to tips.

Will glass the wings before cutting away the ailerons and building/glassing nacelles afterwards.

[MikeQ]

Bit of progress

slotting together quite nicely.

Enlarged the joiner holes to take a 7mm carbon tube (5mm rod).

Did and alignment check of tube and spars and will sort tubes and centre section dihedral  before moving on to tips.

Will glass the wings before cutting away the ailerons and building/glassing nacelles afterwards.

 

 

Edited By MikeQ on 22/12/2020 20:36:32

[MikeQ]

Hello

wings just about there. Added a 5mm T-nut on inside of root rib for securing detachable wing. Don't fancy using tape although ive no doubt it works fine.

[MikeQ]

Hello

wings just about finished. Went together pretty easy, no major issues with the laser cutting etc at all. Thought I'd lay out fuselage to get an idea what's involved.

[MikeQ]

Bit more progress ... fuselage going together nicely. Test fit wings etc.

[MikeQ]

Hello

getting ahead of myself but a bit of fun ... printed off an M117 bomb. Only a rough prototype. Need to do same for tip tanks and bomb racks.

Need to think of how to keep them on the wing in the wind but pop off on landing if necessary. Not sure if magnets are up to it?

 

 

Edited By MikeQ on 05/01/2021 19:36:07

[Martin Gay]

Mike,

Andy Meade used magnets to hold the undercarriage onto his large JU87.

They should work for some small bombs!

[MikeQ]

Hi ... yeah probably overthinking it no doubt.

Been a few years since I did any planking. Slowly getting my eye back in. Last time was on a 8oz vintage rubber FF model and a KeilKraft Jetex Mig15, I think. Probably teaching granny but a useful tip is to actually slightly crush the plank on the edge of the workbench every say 3/16". Puts a nice bend in it. 7.5Ib density. Been lucky as only needed a couple of small infills so far.

Keep calm and plank on!