Martin Gay

Looking at the work you are doing, Chris, it won't be long before your Dak is in the air again. I am hoping for another "maiden flight" at the next PSSA meeting in 24 days.

I do like the DC3. This is my own design 1/32nd sized version on it's short maiden flight. Unfortunately, it suffered from an almost terminal tip stall shortly after this photo was taken. A new wing is being constructed with more washout. Hopefully that will reduce, if not cure, the tip stall problem.

I find it easiest to view the item in person before buying anything. Yes, it is limited by how far I am willing to travel, but I find that scammers disappear quickly when I ask for an address!

To be honest, you followed the plan! I will update the fin drawing to reflect the thicker fin on this size of Sabre. Apologies.

That will work, I did it that way on the little Lancaster and DC3 which used a single central keel. You will need to keep checking that the fuselage stays straight, though.

Very neat planking Phil. No gaps visible on the inside either. I am impressed.

It's look good, Phil. I wish my workbench was as clean and tidy as your one!

Correct!

Thanks Phil, I will be editing the original drawings over the next week. I reckon the addition of corner pieces will be more than enough to fix the rigidity of the wing building jig. Please shout out if you find any further issues with the plan or parts. Martin.

Hi Phil, I have noticed that some of the jig pieces need adjusting for any future kits! Please confirm: J1 needs to be extended to R5a J2 needs to be extended to R10a J3 needs to be extended to R15a J4 needs to be extended to R4a and R19a J5 needs to be extended to R8a and R22a J7 needs to be extended to J17. If you need the jig parts replaced please let me know. Martin.

At the Popham meet, last year, there were very few traders selling RC stuff.

Surely you should have asked, "You have cars in your hangar?"

I believe a Mustang has already been kitted, so how about a twin Mustang?

Lancaster looks great! Keep watching for the next multi-engine models, from the scrap box, in this series. We expect to test fly the next one in about a month, weather permitting!

I've had a few recent issues with Fusion 360 freezing when using a bluetooth mouse. Works fine using wireless IR connection instead.

I'm guessing it is about 1:8 scale. Would that be correct?

Not really complicated. It is simply a mix of equal volumes of lightweight filler, water based varnish and talcum powder. The colour is added as an aid to sanding. Martin.

Copied from the original post by McG 6969 in April 2016 Bella Ballerina HD thread Freddie B's Secret Sauce... I did mention it earlier, but in fact it isn’t such a big secret, as Freddie B - an American foamie guru - himself talked about it in an earlier RCgroup’s thread. While many have been amazed by Fred’s finished airframes, this was the process he used. Basically, it’s a filler & primer coat (all-in-one) that doesn't weigh much but seems to work really well. He does this on his foam builds often when there is no covering, lamination or other coating involved. Here are some photos to help 'show and tell' in case some of you want to try this. Let’s have it in sequence. 1). Take some light weight filler (Polyfilla One Fill or a cellulose based filler, I use Red Devil OneTime) and put a nice size plug in a little mixing bowl. In my testcase, the plug of filler is about the size of a nut. /sites/3/images/member_albums/140450/670209.jpg 2). Next add some Polycrylic clear varnish (water based of course), about the same volume as the plug of filler. /sites/3/images/member_albums/140450/670210.jpg 3). Get some Talc Powder. Baby Powder or Foot Powder, but the Baby kind smells best…Talc is very fine and does a great job of getting those tiny imperfections filled, but sands away nicely. Note the 'pile' of powder - the Mods shouldn’t be worried, this is ‘real genuine’ talc powder - about equals the volume of the light filler we used too. /sites/3/images/member_albums/140450/670211.jpg 4). Add two or three drops of acrylic paint (craft paint, water based or airbrush acrylics), I used ‘Raw Sienna’ here for better picture contrast. It can be white paint of course, but it’s easier with a colour to see the work in process and the finished results shows up better. Anyway, use a colour that works for your intended top coat. Light for light topcoats, gray for everything else. You can use Yellow in the primer if you are painting Yellow top coats, because Yellow - and Reds - don't always cover well. /sites/3/images/member_albums/140450/670212.jpg 5). Now mix it well. It is very thick, but get it creamy and all one colour and texture, working out any chunks. /sites/3/images/member_albums/140450/670214.jpg 6). Add water until it is like very thin whipping cream, thin shaving cream, or even thinner like a very thick paint. Brush this on your pre-sanded foam, making sure to completely wet everything and force the mixture into any hollows, dings, scratches, etc. /sites/3/images/member_albums/140450/670213.jpg Let this dry. Then sand it all with some 180 grit or 220 grit papers, mounted to some sheets of laminated white foam. I use plaster wall hard foam sponges. The foam sanding blocks are flat, but 'give enough' to not cause grooves nor scoring. Just make sure to remove sanding dust often and use a reasonable pressure while sanding. When you have sanded most of this formula away, you will see some original foam, but also many areas of filled and flush mixture and the surface will be very smooth. Little weight gain, yet ready for top coating with paint. You can sand with even finer papers, depending on what top coat paint you will be using. This is good enough using craft paints, but if like Fred, you intend to spray with Vallejo, Model Master or Tamya paints, you could go to 320 or 400 grit paper. All four kinds of paint seem to work well with this process. I’m truly convinced by Fred’s method and believe it’s really worth trying this out on a piece of scrap foam or Depron. I intend to test my ‘Raw Sienna’ mixture and will report here later on. … sjeesh… this was quite a long one… comments welcome, of course... Hakuna matata Chris BRU - BE / CTR Raw Sienna Control Edited By McG 6969 on 26/04/2016 20:46:06

Erfolg, You may need to set the line parameters to 3D. As Ron says, please give us a hand drawn sketch of what you want to do.

Hi Heritage_1944, It was all about aesthetics at the end of the day. As the wing section on the model is much thinner than the full size more dihedral than shown on the plan just did not look right! The PSS version flies very well on the slope and also handles a good blow with ease. Martin.

Richard, in my opinion the Spit/109 combo is one that has been modelled many times. How about something less mainstream such as a Japanese/American combo from the Pacific war? Martin.

Mike, Outrunner beat me to the same reply!

This own design A320 was built with the foam packaging from a shower screen!

712g! That is lightweight considering all the extra stuff that you added. 80W per motor give something close to 75W/lb. I look forward to the report, post maiden. Martin.

Martin, The slope version is 702 grams ready to fly, including the bouncing bomb. MG