M'lud Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Apart from gluing ones fingers to the wood when using cyano glue. What are, if any, reasons for not using cyano when building aircraft.Please tell me none, as I have almost finished one. Rubber powered that is thanks chaps Reg Ball Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Wyatt Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Reg Cyano is great glue and very quick to set. I tend to use it for almost all joints. However not on highstress areas such as wing mountings, stabelizer , landing gear mounts and engine fire walls. having never built rubber power models I am not sure but would probably reinforce the areas that attach the rubber drive bands with some quadrent glued with epoxy. You dont mention the span of the model but I hope this helps a little.Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Hi Reg, It's useful to have various grades of cyano The thin stuff, that is just about instant, a slow one, which gives some time for moving things around, and a very slow one that is strongest. Also an aerosol of kicker is useful, one blast and set is instant.I agree with Nigel, I use epoxy for highly stressed joints, and aliphatic where I need a slow cureernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Lynock Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 On the subject of glue try this one, paint a nice even coat onto a strip of Balsa about an inch wide, do the same with the edge of a piece of brown paper and allow to dry, turn up your heat iron a little and iron the two glued surfaces together,.Cyano is a big no-no in static model ship building as apart from the fumes while using it the stuff does become brittle when cured and has a finite life, it was originally developed as an emergency fix-all during the Korean war to close wounds instead of stitching.The actual life of CA isnt a problem with model aircraft as I doubt any of them will servive twenty years or more but with model ships that may have a lifespan of hundreds of years in a glass case then its a different story.I do know that Cyano once soaked into material makes the actual material brittle, I have used it on cloth then had the clth split right along the glue line.regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Hailey Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Hi all.I am not a lover of cyano, as has been said Meany times it can brake under shock load, and dose not stick to Solar film that well, so I tend to use PVA or Epoxy.Stick to the point Owen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanner Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Greattipfor wing seating Eric, I never heard that before. I have anearly completed plan build on the bench, Ill give it a try. Any more tips? maybe a new thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Lynock Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Yes Eric, but did it fly?..........regards, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Heath Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 I have found a very good glue is bostik quick-setting PVA glue. All the advantages of normal PVA and it will set whilst you sit holding the bits together. Takes a bit longer to fully go off mind. Also comes in a nice tooth-paste tube with a fine nozzle as an added bonus. It s expensive in comparison to normal PVA though. Our local DIY store - you know the one: Rip-Offs R Us - sells it for about £5 - £6 for a small tube. A tube is more than enough for most of my models though, and this allows me to avoid CA as much as possible, given that CA is the devil's own spittle and always goes and breaks when you least want it to; either that or I am a c**p builder? Hmmm, on reflection, that might be it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan broadhurst Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Oh phooey. I've used quite a bit of cyano building my gentle lady wings. Hope they don't snap off. Fingers crossed i've decided not to make a leccy version so hopefully the wings will not be under too much stress. Will try to keep off the cyano around the wing in future! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Lynock Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 As Eric says it causes fibres to go brittle and snap, Balsa hardens if soaked but is strengthened, only problem is when it goes it snaps like a carrot rather than splintering.Cloth fibres usually give way around the periphery of the glue area because the fibres are brittle as discovered personally with jumpers that look like a Tetleys tea bag at the front, a friend learned the hazzards of CA the hard way using thin CA he didnt realise as he glued bits together it was dripping off the bottle tip.he found out it had been dripping when he went to the loo and discovered to his dismay his trousers firmly glued to his wedding tackle...., regards, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan broadhurst Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 A sticky situation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 years ago I built a Sukhoi 26 from magazine plans - Clive Smalley rings a bell as the designer.Anyway, I built this using just a little epoxy for the high stress areas - engine bulkhead etc, the rest was put together entirely with cyano from the pound shop.That model went in in a high speed flick/horizontal spin from a reasonable height, and bounced. The only damage was to the engine and undercarriage mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Cook Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Just make sure you don't poke you finger in your ear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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