Mark's Peggy Sue 2 Build

[Peter Miller]

I can see that this is going to be a concourse finish

[Chris North 3]

The build is looking great - fast progress and precise building

[Mark Elen]

Thanks Gents,

I’m trying hard to be precise with this build, as I’m going to be using transparent covering. I’m nearly there in my head, with the final colour scheme, but I’m sure it will evolve further yet.

Not much done in the last few days, as I have been busy with work, I have got the 1/4” wing bolt plates made up and epoxied into place:

Cheers

Mark

[Peter Miller]

THat is very neat. I really must try and make neater parts myself.

[Mark Elen]

Thanks Peter,

I will now admit to cheating with that...

Lots of setting up to do, with there being 3 different centres for the arcs. I cut the 3 arcs first on an oversized blank, then sanded the sides down to fit. I made the rotary table fixture plate and clamp set myself last year. It was a project in itself.

Once set up, I used a 5mm 2 flute slot drill at 2000 rpm to route out the curves. Once done, it just needed a quick go over with some fine sandpaper to finish.

I have glued the side plates on along with a couple of small 1/16 sheet bits at the front to fair the plates in. (On one side it will also sort out my sanding mistake - I went a bit mad with the sanding block and took too much off)

Cheers

Mark

[Peter Miller]

I just use a power jig saw.

[Mark Elen]

Hi Peter,

It is a bit OTT, but the mill was sat doing nothing, so it got used.

I have got a few ‘bits’ done the last couple of days. I got the wing seat sanded to final finish, F2 was a little short, so I put a 45 degree onto a piece of 1/8 light ply, then cut and fitted it.

I also made up a couple of tiny fairing pieces to blend the rear sides in at the top:

And made a start on the filler piece at the rear of the wing seat:

Cheers

Mark

[Peter Miller]

If you've got it, use it is what I always say. It helps to make life easier

[Mark Elen]

Hi Peter,

Yes, anything that makes things easier is good in my book.

Bit more done tonight, starting with sanding down the filler block and filing out a slot for the top stringer. The photo below shows me using masking tape to protect the wing seat from the sanding bar. It leaves a very small step, that is sanded down very gently once the tape is removed.

Stringer installed:

And sanded down to blend in:

Then blank made up for vertical stabiliser. I like to add a small piece of cross grain at the top to help stop it from warping:

Cheers

Mark

[Peter Miller]

As I have said, this is going to be a councourse finish.

The anti warp strip in the fin and tail are good.

The Little Ship and my later Big Ship vinatge R/C models used that.The Little Ship really needed them as the surfaces were large and only 1/8" sheet

[Mark Elen]

Hi Peter,

Many thanks for your kind comments. I have done a little more tonight, just pottering about with it.

Sanded down the Starboard Stringers to rough finish:

Then sanded the fin to rough finish. I spent a little time sanding a vee into the rear to match both sides, but I went a little too far, so added a couple of little filler pieces. The fin sits nicely on the 1/8 filler piece above the vertical stab slot.

I really need to clear the bench and get on with repairing the Ballerina, after my mishap with the hedge a couple of weeks ago, but I'm enjoying building this too much.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen]

A little bit more done tonight. Port stringers sanded down, then Fin glued into place. I used a couple of spare engine bearers to hold the fin straight.

Glued in with normal Aliphatic, so I'm going to leave it overnight to go off before I move it about too much.

Cheers

Mark

[Nigel R]

Very neat work as ever Mark

[Mark Elen]

Hi Nigel,

Many thanks for your kind comments.

Been out and done a little bit more. I had a bit of scrap light ply that was just the right size for the nose ring, so I got it marked out and ready for routing the hole. I had made up a spacer tool when I built the Ballerina, so I cut out the hole 35mm to fit the spacer tool.

This follows Peter's cowl build sequence, it works really well and gives a great finish:

The inner hole of the spacer is a snug fit on the engine prop driver.

Cheers

Mark

 

Edited By Mark Elen on 03/10/2019 22:47:25

[Peter Miller]

Immaculate as usual I see.

[Mark Elen]

I Thanks Peter. I do try hard to keep it neat and tidy.

I have had the afternoon off work today, so lots done. Starting with a trip to my LMS (Gliders at Newark) for some Superphatic. - they didn’t have any, but I spotted this:

I have a bit of a fetish for tools.....

What a great bit of kit. I can see it’s going to be the ‘go to tool’ for engines and servos. I did some testing with it this afternoon:

Then I got set up to start building the cowl:

I was just about to start, then realised I still needed to make up and drill for the throttle linkage. I made this mistake on the Ballerina, it’s much easier to sort out without the cowl in the way.

That’s it for now.... it’s beer o’clock. 😎

Cheers

Mark

[Peter Miller]

That hole centre toollooks good,.I never bought one.

I have used a long series drill to do the job, these are drills about 6 inches long and work wellbut NEVER ever use them on a fast drill out of a hole. The drill promptly whips out to 90 degrees.

[Paul C.]

Looking good Mark great build blog. I note that you have gone for an inverted engine, I did the same on my Ballerina thought it looked better than side winder. Decided to fit remote glow lead as fingers and prop were getting way to close when removing the glow battery, if I remember correctly I lowered the tank slightly to get centre line of the tank to the carb. Not sure if I really needed to do that but I have had no problems will engine runs, Peter may have some advice on this.

Paul.

[Mark Elen]

Hi Paul,

Many thanks for your kind comments.

Yes, I have gone for an inverted engine. The set up is exactly the same as my Ballerina, and, exactly the same as the plan. Tank in centre of engine mount, it is a little higher than the centre line of the carb, with the engine inverted, but I have had no problems with the Ballerina. If this engine is anything like the one in the Ballerina, it’s just going to want to run and run.

Normally, the Ballerina engine will start first flick, every now and then it gets to see the starter😂

I’m considering putting a remote glow on this, but I have had no real issue on the Ballerina, the Saito plug is angled rearwards at about 45 degrees, so, as long as you are careful, your fingers are never too close to the prop at start up.

Cheers

Mark

[Paul C.]

Hi Mark, the Ballerina was the first inverted 4 stroke set up that I did so I was probably a bit over thinking the set up with the fuel tank 😂 . I fitted the remote mainly because I had one (swop meet) and the old glow stick I had was a pain to get on the plug, have since consigned it to the bin and bought a lipo glow stick which it way better. Keep up the good work 👍

Paul.

[Nigel R]

There's a tool I didn't know I needed. I'm not sure whether to thank you or curse you!

I sense the throttle run is not finished yet. Are you soldering on a z bend or similar?

[Peter Miller]

I normally use a remote on an inverted engine.

Probably a good idea to drop the tank a bit on an inverted engine conversion.

I tend to use sidewinder because I am lazy.

[Mark Elen]

Hi Gents,

Nigel, your welcome mate 😂 Still a bit to do on the linkage. I like a dead straight run, so I will open out both formers at the ends to allow the snap link through, with just the centre former holding the rod in place. Photos to folllow.

Peter, I had my concerns about the tank position on the Ballerina, but, having flown it , the Saito doesn’t seem too concerned about the tank being a little high. I thought that I would have a lot of trouble with it flooding after the first tank of the day, but having used it, it seems to only need the starter for the first fire up, (not being able to prime it as the carb is inaccessible) once it has been run once, it will flick start every time after.

Cheers

Mark

[Peter Miller]

Back in the old days I started everything by hand...and some of the diesel engines of the day could be pigs.

I also used to start my Super Tigre G21/29 speed engine on a 7 X 10 wood prop on 25% nitro by hand. Never bit me!!

Not I am lazy and have a small starter powered by a 6 cell nicad that works on up to.60 four strokes.

[Mark Elen]

Hi Peter,

I don’t like using the starter on my Ballerina, I’m always careful that it’s not flooded, but, normally, it needs the starter to drag some fuel through.

Bit more done today. Throttle linkage made up, so now I can get on with the cowling.

Cheers

Mark