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Walnut Scale Mr Mulligan


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Thanks Johnathon, yes....It is good fun....

Paul................will you stop changing my mind....... I was going to just use the kit prop, but now i'm thinking

should I ??? LOL Bear in mind I have to use the plastic bearing that fits the cowl.....or do I ??? Arrrrrrghhhh!!

D.D.

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Quite like eze dope, no smell and water dilution and clean up by it's not as easy to use as real dope, it's very easy to get puddles.

here's a couple of props I've made just to mess with you mind!!

The balsa one is frankly awfull, far to thick and I made it out of to soft material, it's replacement ( for my half size Wakefield) is made from 8 laminations of lite ply, far thinner and efficient but obviously heavier ( just removing the nose weight sorts that though!)

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Edited By paul d on 29/05/2020 11:27:34

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Very nice Paul.

Well !! Here goes with the Ezedope Chaps, Photos show the water shrinking phase. The covering went well, I had forgotten how fiddly it was, but as time went on it all got easier, and in the end, a couple of hours saw the model covered. Stuck down with a glue stick, the first time I've tried this but according to 99% of the vids I've watched, it's the way to go.

Notice I saved the rice trays for making the hinges. laugh

The model is now drying after a coat of 30/70 Ezedope /water as per the instructions.

Gonna go look after pressing the post button.. Ooerrr......face 7

D.D.

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If you guys remember, I said that some of the stringers were made from cheese, well...What I feared has happened. The shrinking has pulled them in a little.

Some of them were unusable, as they literally crumbled to the touch. Shame really as it lets a good kit down.

I can live with it, but next time I will buy a sheet of laser cut 1/16th stringers from VMC, that way I will be able to guarantee consistency. I used the harder wood on the bottom to ensure not getting a banana fuselage, that seems to have worked out OK.

D.D.

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Sorry about the dicky stringers Dwain. Scalpel some 1/32 or 1/20 wide lengths off 1/16 sheet and use a smidge of thin CA to 'double' the cheese from the inside - will obviously involve stripping and re-covering the bottom tissue.

I almost never wet tissue anymore to shrink it - just waving the fuse or over a kettle for 30-60 secs gives an even, less fierce shrink.

Yay to the Don Ross book - for lubing the rubber use silicone lubricant from a tube rather than messy caster oil.

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Hi Jonathon, it's a bit annoying but hey ho. That is the top of the fuz so, is as you say, an easy fix. I may well have a go tomorrow, as from past experience if you mess too much you end up in a bigger mess.

You would have thought the kit producers would "vet" the contents, or make sure the wood was of a consistent quality. I know the kits are brilliant for the price though, so I'm not really having a go at Dumas.

I already have my eye on this model to trim train on, once it's built of course. A sparrow Hawk.

D.D.

sparrowhawk 1__21503.1561129315.jpg

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 30/05/2020 21:26:08

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The Sparrowhawk is a lovely little kit, all the VMC wood and laser-cutting is spot on! Helped my kid build one as his first model about three years ago, flies extremely well - even took it to a SAM 1066 meeting on Salisbury Plain and played with the big boys!

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Ours was 2016. The airframe and prop weighed 21.5g, rubber was a 20.5" loop (twice length of hook to peg) of 3/16" weighing 4.8g, needed 5.0g nose-weight, total 31.3g so a wing-loading of 0.70g/sq in - just right for calm outdoor conditions.

The max breaking winds of this rubber motor was calculated as 1700, so a safe repeatable 80% was 1360, but even on 1000 winds (60%) it was doing 45 secs!

Jon's Record Keeping Dept

PS Just checked the dust-covered surfaces - it has a 1/64" shim for right-thrust, a 30mm wide card down-tab two-thirds down the left wing and a similar left-tab on the rudder.  The Kid is now too 'cool' to play any more and is at his mum's, but the first calm day we get I'm off with it to my local field!

Edited By Jonathan M on 31/05/2020 08:42:52

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I made the Spats today, they are a bit of a faff, but look OK in the end, when the fairings are added.

I also stripped the top tissue and added two extra cross pieces to straighten the fuz sides, this was a success. I left the kink as you look from the side for the moment, I am sure I can get it out though.

Added the decals, and next is assembly. That is glue the wing and surfaces on. The little rudder hinges work a treat and are very stiff.

D.D.

I printed an instrument panel.

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Straighter !!

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Decals, Spats, fairings, and kink. LOL

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Posted by Dwain Dibley. on 30/05/2020 23:39:20:

Have you still got it D.F. ?

Oh yes.

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Somewhat torn in places. The side access hole is where I had to extract the rubber after it came off the propeller during winding. I was less accomplished than Jonathan M, 10g of solder on the nose to balance. 31g total, without rubber. We only ever wound to 500ish turns but had a lot of fun. The first model I had to get out of a tree Nearly lost it and three small children following it over a cliff on holiday. Fortunately they stopped when I yelled, and the edge was 100yards further away than I feared so all was safe. That day, whichever direction I launched it in it would fly up, then shake itself and head off straight for the cliff.

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