McG 6969 Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 ... Double Diamond? ... isn't that strange, D.D ... ??? ... Cheers& stay well Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 The Old Double Diamond............ I would imagine there is no limit, unless like batteries, the bigger you go there comes a point where the weight of it overcomes the power it can provide. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Posted by McG 6969 on 31/05/2020 20:31:55: ... Double Diamond? ... isn't that strange, D.D ... ??? ... Cheers& stay well Chris Yes Chris, D.F is the new custodian of the D.D. that once belonged to D.D. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Mr M looking very good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Nostalgia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Thanks Jonathon, I fitted the motor and gave Him ? a run across the kitchen floor with positive results. Gee Whiz John....that takes me back....Beer at home means Davenports and all that......Mind you the plane is as old as the advert.. LOL I watched a video about "braiding " the motor, the rubber in this one is 2 X the length of prop to peg and when the winds fall off the prop drops down. do I need to braid, shorten, or just double up the rubber? D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George P. Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Hi Dwain, That's a great looking model and build. I like the registration letters. I have also turned to Rubber to occupy the Lockdown hours! I have just finished building a little Cessna which was great fun. I haven't done any tissue covering for a long time and thought I would go the Ezedope route. I will use it again because the lack of smell and water clean up makes it,,eh..'Eze'! However, I have learned from reading the comments of many skilled rubber flyers that it needs the correct method and as such is perhaps not so 'Eze' as Dope. It was a lot of pinning down and fingers crossed overnight until I could unpin, examine and sigh with relief. I will follow with interest to see how you get on. I am waiting for some calm weather so I can give it a test glide or two and then I will need to get into the strange and wonderful world of lube and winding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George P. Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Forgot picture... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Posted by Dwain Dibley. on 31/05/2020 23:35:46: I watched a video about "braiding " the motor, the rubber in this one is 2 X the length of prop to peg and when the winds fall off the prop drops down. do I need to braid, shorten, or just double up the rubber? If the prop falls off at the end, that's because the nose-block or button is too sloppy a fit - thicken things slightly with CA... but let dry properly before re-inserting!! Braiding isn't essential but it is neat and shortens the length nicely. Shortening the rubber length will just shorten the duration. Doubling it will double the power (disasterously) and halve the duration (irrelevant after the aforementioned disaster). The videos used to confuse me, here's the simple method for small models: before tying the knot, double a short piece of masking-tape over one end and press the winder's hook through it, tape the rubber half way down it's length to a table, wind clockwise (i.e. normally) about 100-120 winds (that's 10-12 times on your 1:10 winder) will do for Mr M, remove the masking-tape bits and tie the ends (Don's method), starting at the knot, work the braids smoothly with your fingers towards the other end, then back the other way. I normally smooth the braids after I've rubbed a little bit of silicone lube into the rubber - makes it all slip nicely - doesn't have to be perfect, and tends to improve after winding properly in the model a few times. Then pre-stretch the rubber - all in Don's book. Jon Edited By Jonathan M on 01/06/2020 08:58:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Very neat job on the VMC Cessna George! We used Eze-Dope on my son's Sparrowhawk... my brain might have been shot as a kid sniffing dope and diesel, but his is still fresh! It obviously works well enough if you thin it with water etc, but I prefer non-shrinking dope thinned to 25% and given 2 coats if indoor model, 3 if outdoors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George P. Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Wow, Jonathan, that whole Braiding thing is something else! Very informative. Glad I only have to get my head around how to lube and wind a loop of Tan Supersport (or so I think it is) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 The model does not have a nose block, like the sparrowhawk, the whole cowl twists on and off. The plastic prop "bearing" just sits against the cowl. I will post a pic later, I am at work at the moment. Thanks for the comments George, and what a beaut the Cessna is. Cessna is one of my favourite planes, I just built the Brian Taylor 120. the blog is on here. I have started to read the book, but not got far....only a coupla pages in....LOL Gonna order my Sparrow tonight...... D.D. Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/06/2020 13:23:44 Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/06/2020 13:25:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 As promised the pics of my cowl, as you can see the prop bearing (if that's the right name) just sits against the front, only kept there by the tension on the elastic. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George P. Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Hi Dwain, Just a thought, if you reversed the black prop bearing then it looks like it would be a good fit into the cowl ( you could glue this in position) and the prop would run on the pointy dome shaped bit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 Ordered a Sparrowhawk, and could not resist the VMC Pilot , as this one looks like it can take a bit more of a bashing indoors. Solid slabs of balsa They both have nose blocks, so that's a bonus for the trimming. YAY. Can't wait now, i'm exited LOL D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 Hi George, the black part is bevelled (concave) on the prop side for a good fit and sits in the cowl on the Convex side. The cowl is very very thin on the front and gives to take the black part. I will take a closer look and check the book, it maybe as you suggest, and I have it the wrong way round. D.D. Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/06/2020 21:45:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 That's a stonking prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 Thanks John. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Button is back to front. As the model is bound to need a good deal of nose-weight, might as well beef up the inside of the front cowling with balsa, then bore out to accept the parallel part of the button behind the flange for a snug fit. Also, unless the wire is long enough so that the hook protrudes properly out the back of the bayonet-former, I'd open up that hole a decent amount. Re balance, things will be a lot easier (as with flying R/C) if you go for a slightly forward CG - obviously balance as per plan initially and then add weight during test-glides. Light lead fishing-weights pressed into blue-tak or clay will be useful, maybe form an opening at the base of the rear cowling former so you can load the lead in well forward. Don't know how you'd start to add side- and down-thrust... given the bayonet system of attaching the cowl. Maybe fit one of Derek Knight's adjustable nose-buttons? third photo from the bottom Edited By Jonathan M on 01/06/2020 22:38:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 Right guys, I have the solution, thank both of you for your input, I had got it backwards. DOH So I don't need to cut the prop shaft like I did either. Once fitted up the cowl has to be taken off each time to wind the motor. I have fitted a 1/32 ply disc on the front with a hole drilled to take the button, the printed radial engine will cover the disc. I have ordered some more prop shafts as the one I made was a bit pony, had to cut the original off.......0.99p for 3 was a no brainer. I had mentioned the thrust issues earlier Jonathan, my idea is to cut the plastic away top and side so I can slip a wedge of balsa in. I can also relieve the turnbuckle affair slightly. Anyway thanks to you pair of eagle eyed beauties, the day has been saved. D.D. Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 02/06/2020 00:11:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I've always thought Mr Mulligan was a beautifully brutish design and your model has captured thuggish attitude that in spades. Talk of 1/16"sq and twisted rubber motors takes me back 60 years to building the KK Flying Scale series models and my attempts at Coupe d'Hiver and Wakefield class rubber power models. I'm not sure I'd like to be working with these fragile structures now though. More power to your elbow Dwain it's looking good, shame about the poor material choice provided for the strips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 Thanks Bob, yes I am really getting into this side of it, having done the same as you in my youth, bar the comps. I agree the Mr mulligan and similar are well thuggish, I had a 50 cc version and a 50 cc Gilmore racer too, which I recently sold. The kit was let down by the dire choice of strip, however the laser cut parts were great. So the next Dumas kit will be supplemented with some laser cut strip from VMC or the like. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Oh I never flew competitions Dwain, it was kids stuff building from the free plans in Aeromodeller then when the planets aligned and one flew well it was a case of watching it float off across the housing estate bordering the park. First chance I got to obtain a glow motor (Cox .049) it was all control line and no looking back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 I built one control line model, I was about 15, me and my brother flew it in a field by our house, many good flights till the engine fell out and disappeared into some trees. We found it, and I still have it..... A PAW 1.5 diesel. Those were the days.................... Anyway, I have fitted the engine in the DGA, plus fitted the struts, and the fairings under the wings. Just waiting now for the delivery from VMC and the prop will be back on. D.D. The disc for the prop button came from this box, I suspect we all have one. LOL Strutting His stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted June 4, 2020 Author Share Posted June 4, 2020 Some more rubber delight. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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