Walnut Scale Mr Mulligan

[Dwain Dibley.]

Do you ever sleep Johnathon 😉 Good song too.

The fleet will grow even more, with the way things are going with covid and all the chaos at work Davey. Lol. But yes, lots of fun so far, and lots to learn. It's a fascinating part of the Hobby.

D.D.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Here at Dibley Towers Research Center (DTRC), copious amounts of reading has been done and guess what ??you can "Break in" your Rubber Motor....Who Knew ???

So, 3 Broken in motors later, everything looks just the same.... but the motors will last longer and won't lose gusto after 3 flights.

Stretch the motor to 3 X it's length, lube it up and leave stretched for 2 mins, then rest it for 15 mins. Stretch 5 X original length for 4 mins....job done.

I also made some different motor pushers ( that's what I call 'em) to get the motors over the peg in the fuz.

An un-braided motor goes in easily but a braided one curls up and doesn't "dangle" (technical term) down.

So the motor goes over the end in the grooves, you shove it in, and I use a wire to catch the motor, then insert the peg tube ( a piece of 3 mm OD ally tube) over the wire, pull out the wire and the motor is on the peg.

I know this is "old News" to some but I am in Anorack heaven learning all this. My thermos is empty and I've eaten all my fish paste sandwiches. Hopefully I encourage more rubber fanciers out there, cos it's tremendous fun chums..

D.D.

The one with the inlaid ply is the bestest.

The one with the foam was the first attempt.

[Jonathan M]

Shhhhh!! Don't tell them!!

[Dwain Dibley.]

OK.............I won't......................but it's sooooooooooo good......

 

Oh yeah....forgot to say I threw the Sparrow hawk in the garden earlier, no power, and she flew straight as a die on a gentle glide till she ran out of garden. I had to add 6 g of ballast to both the S.H. and the Pilot.

The M.M. balanced without any ballast.

I used blutac inside the nose in the S.H. and a lead plug encased in balsa in the Pilot, which can be removed easily.

D.D.

 

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 13/06/2020 21:19:45

[Dwain Dibley.]

I was going to go over the local field today, but thunder and lightening prevented that.

I searched in vane for a commercial prop hanger, and in the end had to resort to making my own, for a project in the book recommended by Johnathon.

It is transferable between models, and can have infinite amounts of down and side, or be fixed. Held in place by a wedge or the wing plate.

The pics are self explanatory I think.

D.D.

[DaveyP]

For those not in the "Know" what is a prop hanger ??

[Dwain Dibley.]

Hello DaveyP,

Yeah, so basically on a stick model, which is just a stick of balsa with a wing, a vertical stabiliser, and a horizontal stabiliser on it, you have to have a way of fixing the propeller on.

As you can see above, in this instance it "hangs" down from the stick fuselage. In the pic you can see the tube that carries the prop shaft, on the right is the motor hook, on the left is the "bearing" that the prop butts up to. Once the prop is on, the shaft is bent over at 90 degrees to hold it on. The bearing is a bought one, I have seen small round plastic beads used. It reduces the friction between the prop and the tube.

Down thrust is achieved with the block of balsa shaved at an angle, and glued on to the shrink tube. Right/left thrust by offsetting the tube

On these type of models the motor is removed for winding. There will be a hook at the back of the fuz for attaching the wound motor between it and the prop shaft hook.

HERE is a commercially made one with prop. these just push onto your stick fuselage, I think usually 1/8 X 3/16 ,

D.D.

[Dwain Dibley.]

To continue the saga of the freeflight model from the book I bought.

I had to buy some balsa, 1/32nd sheet, and some props and rubber to finish this little thing off.

I was surprised that I could not get all the items in one place tho, So Slec, Sussex Models, and VMC, were plied with folding, for Balsa, props, and rubber respectively.

The End result is a charming little model, that cost almost nothing, less than a tenner easily.

D.D.

A wing from 1/32nd. the dihedral was added by taping the top, scoring the back, and cracking upwards. tissue was used to strengthen the joint once the glue went off.

A kit of parts.

The model. It's called "Canarsie Canary".