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DB Spitfire Build


Tim Flyer
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  • 4 weeks later...

Here are some photos I took today after gluing on the canopy and gluing the pilot in . I still need to finish the canopy painting and put a slither of filler in.
The Fuselage and wing painting is basically done now though.  
I ended up painting the tricolour on the tail as the decal looked a bit to “obvious “.
Next step is hardware assembly and putting in the retracts.
Finally after that I will add the wheel bay covers which need finishing and painting.
 

Thanks for all the tips and encouragement all! 

 

 

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I used 3 and a half dark green and two dark earth and three duck egg blue. 
Also two Guild clear Matt lacquer .


Paint could possibly be saved on this scheme by priming the top surface with dark grey and priming the bottom with light grey.

I brush painted the brown on the fin and tailplane. The green is the darkest colour and needs most . I had primed with light grey so needed plenty. 
The lacquer adds a nice satin lustre 

Edited by Tim Flyer
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On 12/10/2021 at 21:18, Tim Flyer said:

Yes must admit it is expensive but the model is hundreds of hours of work so it’s worth the effort.  Paint finish is a lot nicer than film . I guess those that own spray gear can do it for a lot less but then the gear has to be bought as well as cleaned. 

Film just doesn’t do the larger scale warbirds justice IMO. Fine if it is an ARTF type model but if you go to the trouble of crafting such a model then spray or hand painting is key. Spray equipment doesn’t have to be expensive btw. I found a superb compressor locally on ebay (ex dental) for £100 and use a HVLP panel spotting gun (.8mm nozzle Fast Mover £16) that produces a superb finish and is easy to clean. The main issue is finding a clean place to spray the model away from other models etc.

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I agree Nick . The paint definitely looks far better on Warbirds,  it also allows many more scale touches,   Especially important is no horrible wrinkles forming in sunny conditions making the finish look like a shopping bag ?
 

I think the only downside for paint is cost and time , difficulty and more attention to fuel proofing needed. 

 

Hi Dave is my rough Speck of parts used:
 

Engine : Laser 180 4stroke Glow

Mount : Logic RC L-RAA1520  90/120

Tank : Radio Active 16OZ

 

Retracts : Unitract International custom made for the DB Spitfire 

 

Main Wheels: 2x Du-Bro 450TL Treaded light Weight 4-1/2” dia

Tailwheel : Supplied in kit 

 

Servos

Throttle : Futaba S3004

Retract : 1x  Futaba  S3004

Ailerons:   2 x Futaba S3004

Elevator : 1x  Savox SC 0252

Rudder : 1x Futaba S3305

Flaps: 2x Hitec HS 5685

 

Receiver : Futaba R7014SB

RX switches : 2x Futaba ESW 1j electronic 

RX Batteries: 2x Vapex 1600mah LiFe

 

Aileron Servo Mounts: 2x Radio Active CA

200

 

Retract air tank: Robart 

 

Spinner: Supplied in kit

Prop :APC 18x8

 

Decals : Pyramid Models /DB models

 

Instrument panel: Mick Reeves Models 

 

Paint: Guild Enamel Spray/Tins 

 


 


 

 

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Here are some pics of the plane with its wings on . I stuck the wheel bay covers on today with double sided mirror tape. That on its own isn’t rigid enough. I still need to make the aluminium straps for them and build and fit retract fairings from thin aluminium sheet . 
 


 

The weight of the plane is between 20.3 and 20.6lbs according to my luggage scale. Obviously that will increase with nose lead . I haven’t yet balanced it to find out . My build was very much nose heavy in terms of  construction weight so hopefully I won’t require too much ballast.
 

My final stage in this  build is making a balancing jig from plywood. I have some spare ball bearings and a plan in mind. 

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