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K5682 - Martyn's Fury

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All sorted - thanks

Today is a decorating day. My task this weekend is to get the spare bedroom decorated ready for a new carpet and bed being delivered and fitted on Monday, The good news is that there is plenty of time while paint dries

Picking up from this morning


Front firewall fitted with cooling outlet. As my engine will be radial mounted, the main bearers are slightly smaller and the gaps filled with shims of beech.


All the side triangular bits fitted and into the jig for the pull together at the rear


I eventually got the former in place but I had to unglue both the rear uprights. At this point, the lower triangle is not glued in.


The reason why is that I had to cut a keyhole slot for skid.... which looks like this


Main skid from 1.5mm FG board, side panels from 1.5mm ply


The lower front rear edge is packed out with 2mm balsa. There is 1/32 ply bearing plate where the LE of the skid fits


And glued into place. A couple of short lengths of triangle to support the balsa


And another shot


From underneath.

The spring was something I had in my spring drawer and was stretched until the tension felt right. You can see I have also added a little extra reinforcement at the front of the ply former and the skid plates have triangles to hold them steady in front of the pivot

The plan is to add some 1/64 balsa sides and fair it very slightly

More to come


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The bedroom decorating was completed but to be honest I felt too knackered to do much building over the weekend.

But I have made some progress though


I have move dthe position of the hardwood beam for the upper wing mounting. I have also increased the size as well. The M4 steel bolt captive nuts are moved nearer to the formers to reduce the bending load.

As this is raked, the bolt holes had to be raked as well so a drilling plan was devised


The cross hatch shows the thicker beams and the angle for the measured at 7 degrees. Note that the bottom beam has also been increased in size as well. 90mm M4 allen bolts are on order.


Stringers next... There are rather a lot. I used 3/32 on the upper deck but very light 1/8 balsa on the sides and bottom


A test fit of the tailplane was promising


A slight change from the plan at the front of the bottom stringers. They rest on top of a piece of 3/16 sheet balsa and then infilled the last 12mm with balsa. This is to try and get the wing fairings something like accurate - later


The side pieces were fun. The side pieces seem to fit better upside down..

A chat with our Mentor and Maestro put me right. I had missed or forgotten about the post with the correct shaped former sides.


The front upper hatch isn't going to be there. Access will be from the bottom. Two pieces of 1" triangle glued into place to give some wood to sand out the gun troughs. The rest will be planked with 3mm balsa


The sides went in place last night. These are 1.5mm balsa and will mainly have a second laminate of 1.5mm balsa on top. The reason. Well I am not happy with the cowl. It stops just after exhaust port 4. The full size definitely does not have a join there and I think it will look odd.

The ali panelling for the sides actually goes back to the cabanes so I am going to try extending by adding GF side cheeks to the existing Sarik Cowl (the shape following the full size panel lines). This will be 1.0 to 1.5mm thick and will sit on top of the balsa sheeting. The remainder will then be sheeted using balsa alongside the glass fibre extensions - if that makes sense. I now need to make a pair of gently curved female moulds - which I can do from the sheeted fuselage I have just done.

This is newish territory for me. It will be interesting to see how it comes out.


More to come...


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Did you reshape the formers Martyn, or go with them as per plan?

When I lay a straight edge on the fus sides and the cowl, there is a significant dip around F1, very dissapointed in the plan in this area. So making an entirely new longer cowl would be the way forward. I don't think I have the stamina for that on this model. But we will see.....



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I started with your revised shapes, but just slightly larger and then used a very long (1m) sanding stick to blend the formers in longitudinally. The side pieces went on very nicely as a result. I also added one extra former on the LHS as I thought the gap between the rear formers was a bit big

I am also not happy with the shape of the cowl. Full stop. It looks too dumpy. But I am going to have to make do. Making a new one from scratch is out of my comfort one. One day perhaps but not in the build lifetime of this model


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I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that anything that was Class A scale in the 70s is probably only Stand Off Scale nowadays. There were just too many compromises that could be made which cannot be done today due to the amount of digital information available. I think that its something to bear in mind for the future.

As this is only intended to be SOS for me, I am not too worried but I can imagine the scale diehards (like you) tearing their hair out in frustration.

I have to admit, I am enjoying this build far more than the Chippie. Glad I did the wings first as well.


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I have used Danny’s new former shapes and so far they look ok. I followed the plan with the underside stringers and the block balsa sanded to a triangular section behind the lower wing root, that looks ok. As I started working on the wing seat I found that I had some apparent misalignment somewhere because the gaps between the bottom of the former side pieces were more than 1/8” above the seat, so had to extend them slightly individually to get them right. I hope to get on with that tonight. I have also been messing about with the side sheeting based on using 1/8”, 3 mm, but you say that you are using 1.5mm and double layering? That sounds like an easier way of doing it. I will follow your idea of running the sanding block alongside the side formers to get the profiles consistent. I find as I go along that I have to make adjustments here and there as I go along, some of it down to the plan and some of it down to my building accuracy or lack of it. I like the way you have done the tail skid, although I confess that I will simply depend on springy wire! There will be very little load on it in practice though so it should be ok.

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  • 1 year later...

You can pick yourselves up off the floor. After a 20 month break, initially caused by illness then distraction, I am back on the Fury.

I have decided on a few changes, probably, the biggest is to install an el****ic motor, in this case an OS60, 375kv which allegedly has similar power to a 90 sized FS. Probably on a 5S setup..

This will allow me to permanently fix the cowl and the aluminium panels will be as per the original.

I am also going to keep the mechanics as simple as possible, so fixed undercarriage, no oleos etc as per the original. I would imagine that this will be quite lightly loaded, if not as light as Danny's masterpiece.

I actually restarted a couple of weeks ago, first job was to build the motor mounting box.


The undercarriage was as per plan and I still need to add the cross braces

The cabane has taken a couple of days. Its dry assembled, I just need to fit the wings and triangulate buts its looking OK so far.


The tape is to stop the landing wire tags from sliding off inadvertently.

I also dry fitted the fin and tailplane to check for alignment.


Hopefully, It will all get soldered up tomorrow and then the cross braces will get fitted.

Really enjoying this now., much happier now that I have the cowl problem resolved.

Sticky ali sheet and wires currently on route from Mick Reeves. Been watching Danny's videos to see how it all should be done.

More to come, hopefully before March 2022..


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Brilliant to have you back on the build Martyn, and blimey electric eh? that's a bit of a shocker?

What's that lovely rotating sleeve RCV motor going in instead? I thought it was perfect for this model.

Looking forward to more updates smile p



Edited By Danny Fenton on 28/07/2020 22:59:47

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Hi Danny

A bit of a shock to me as well, but common sense (nothing common in sense), prevailed and my other guru (Gordon W) thought that not going electric would be a mistake. The overwhelming driver though was getting the panelling to look right and getting that sorted in my mind was the real motivation to restart. I could only really do that with an electric motor and fixed cowl.

I have always had a desire to build the David Vaughn Mustang, so that is where the RCV will go...

Not sure when though, my build list is getting silly again..


MR quarter scale Fournier RF4

Quarter Scale Pitts S2A

Quarter Scale ASK-18

plus the usual plethora of indoor models I seem to get sucked into...


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  • 2 months later...

Update after another longish gap. Mainly due to having 5 weeks holiday in August to Early September

Quite a lot of work but not much to show for it. Its adding all the fairings, hard points etc. and getting is ready for covering. Still a great deal of work to do in it.

To get me inspired, I did a dry assembly. Its reassuring to see that everything looks like it may fit..




Those were meant to motivate me. That also reminded me just how much I have yet to do..

Hardpoints for the tailplane and fin were added. The tailplane and fin points were drilled 6mm pine dowel which seems to work OK.


Anchor points on the fus are ply inserts with M2 bolts (sorry about the blurryness)


The undercarriage fairings were added. I am not using suspension on this, relying on my finger light handling to make sure I get a floating feather type landing. HA!


then the gaps filled and sanded. (a bit of distortion, that lower undercarriage leg fairing is parallel... Honest)

The main leg fairings were cut oversized from balsa then drilled to take the UC leg then split, glued into place then trimmed and sanded in situ. The split at the base is where the front and rear legs are bound together. Not much meat when you have to drill that bit out as well. The rear fairings and the cross fairing are made of spruce.


The cabane struts have also been faired, filled and sanded as well. -


They are actually better than they looks. They have also had more sanding since this photo was taken

I'll be wrapping all the struts with aluminium foil of some sort of litho.

The radiator housing also done.


Not glued in place yet, I need to decide how to do an invisible split as part is glued to the wing and part to the fus. I am actually tempted to hold it is place with pegs and magnets and make it fully detachable. You can also see the battery hatch in this photo.

So, that was about 4 weeks of effort and I wanted a break so decided to cover some of the bits I am happy with.


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I am going to cover the model with lightweight modelspan over doculam. The doculam is the thinnest I have ever seen, bought in error off a private eBay seller about 4 or more years ago. I wanted it to cover foam wings, but its far, far too thin for that so it got hidden under the bench until we started discussing what to cover these models in - especially with the demise of Solartex.

Dont ask me where to get it but if anyone is interested this is the label on the roll centre (300m x 240mm)


- it looks like this...


It really is very thin...

and covers really well. Goes round complex curves (better than Solartex) and appears to have very good adhesion. Shrinks well from an iron or heat gun.. It also seems to be antistatic, there is no backing film and is decidedly not tacky in the slightest

The tailplane.


and Fin.


Tissue covering next than glass the panelled bits of the fus then out with the Litho... That will be fun..

More to come


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Posted by Danny Fenton on 10/10/2020 10:16:19:

I guess it may depend on the amount of tension. If you are just using clevises then you will need to check them regularly.



Especially after a heavy landing or nose over. That doculam covering looks good, then again it it down to the skill of the person doing the job. Looking forward to seeing another Fury finished.

Cheers Eric r.

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Thanks both

I have added tissue over the tailplane, fin and wing centre section and water shrunk and doped it this morning. I was very relieved that the dope didn't melt the plastic.

I can now cover the lower wings and get them done. Rudder and elevators have also been done.

Just wondering whether the doculam would work under the litho on the fuselage. Probably settle for glass cloth


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  • 2 weeks later...

2nd attempt...

I did glass the fus nose area using 18g cloth and Eazykote.. That went on fairly well. With that done, I added a pair of dummy access hatches in the rear fuselage. Using 3mm balsa then opened out to give a 1/32 gap.


The idea is to cut a slit in the covering around the periphery once it has been covered. The hatches are quite noticeable on the full size.

With that out of the way, the fus and wings got covered in doculam and then lightweight modelspan on top,. All OK until I watershrank the tissue. The tissue took an age to dry - about 12 hours - and didn't dry evenly with it gripping the film underneath. The result was an apparent 'folding' of the tissue which didn't feel too bad. A case of gently sanding with 600 grit W&D used dry to ease off any ridges. One problem on the wings that caused me to produce kittens was a weird blotchy banding that looked like the tissue had creased badly. On close examination, it hadn't and I put the kittens back.

The tissue had been applied by using paste at the periphery and gently stretching the tissue to remove creases. In hindsight, I wish I had used thin wallpaper paste and stretched it while it was damp.

Next time, I will use polyester tissue (from FF Supplies) which you can heat shrink.

The tailplane, fin and rudder all covered OK.




tailplane and upper centre section


The fus was a bit more problematic. One panel isn't looking too good so may have to redo that one.

The final job today was to add the fabric joining diagonals using heavyweight modelspan (c.1978) Just done the top on the wing panels.


You can see the weird white marks.

Next job is the lower diagonals, then stitches then rib tapes, then paint...

Coming along slowly.

More to come


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Looking good Martin. I suppose any method different to traditional will take some getting used to but it's all coming good. I bought 10mtrs. of Oratex for mine intending to use the remainder on another biplane project, good job I have been given a D.B. Sport and scale Albatross that needs covering as it looks like balsa for a new build is going to be scarce.

Where have you been hiding Danny ? it is a while since you have posted.

Cheers Eric.

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Posted by Eric Robson on 23/10/2020 23:58:25:


Where have you been hiding Danny ? it is a while since you have posted.

Cheers Eric.

Hi Eric, I entered my first scale comp at Blackpool, and then another two weeks later at Pontefract, didn't finish last but thoroughly enjoyed the company and the challenge of flying the scale schedule in rubbish weather.

So have recently been refitting my two flying only Chipmunks (Black Horse 85" and Seagull 81" ) with Gyros, and I have been out flying, yes I know shock horror!



Edited By Danny Fenton on 24/10/2020 16:32:39

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A little more done this afternoon.

Woke very early this morning and was considering recovering the wings. Still undecided, I'll have another think after the wings have had another couple of coats of dope.

Lower diagonal tapes added on the wing and another coat of dope added. The white streaking actually looks like paint, but I don't gave a clue where it came from.

The hatch periphery was cut out.


Quite pleased with that... I had bevelled the edge of the hatch and simply ran the iron into the groove to provide a nice slot.

And started adding the tapes over the longerons


About 1/3 done. No stitching behind these as far as I can see from the photos that I have

More to come


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The hatch has worked out well Martyn, if the wings feel smooth then paint will hide the white streaking? Could it be dope that has bloomed?

Hi Martin, a lot of the scale guys are using the Multiplex G3 very simple and i have fitted one to my Jeti fitted Black horse Chippy. The Seagull Chippy is fitted out with FRSky und uses one of their integrated stabilised Rx, an S8 i believe it is.

Both work well, but the FRSky gain is adjustable in flight through the tx.



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