McG 6969 Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 No probs, Danny. Most docs I have are Spanish related, but could be of help with a Yugo one. Could you please send me a PM with your e-mail address. I lost that too when the old laptop went 'west'. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 ... email sent, Danny. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Thanks Chris, all interesting stuff Well the hinge tubes in the wing is a good idea but the jigs were not. So with quite a lot of struggling I was able to remove them without any damage to the wing. I don't feel comfortable using hinges individually, and as those who have followed my builds will attest I like to run piano wire down ALL of them to get them alligned. Not easy with this wing layout. So I am still moving forwards gently by building the ailerons and seeing how it pans out. I have created a rod for my own back by going down the RDS route, however there is still time to adopt the direct horn approach as Andy has. I will leave it up to you as to how you proceed? anyway for now I will stick to the RDS plan.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Has anybody checked the size of the ailerons compared to three views? The chord seems excessive? Ah well it is what it is...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Hi Danny Why have you removed the tubes ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Hi Martin, my jig was not accurate, or rather the way I used it.... I will fit the hinges to the aileron, it is easier to get them alligned, then slide the aileron and hinges on to the wing still using the tubes. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Most probably a very daft question, Danny... but weren't the supplied fiber glass parts not supposed to become the aileron hinges? With their screw/nut fixation, they possibly could be used leaving enough room for your RDS rod, I presume. Must have been missing a 'step' somewhere... together with a bunch of grey neurons, I'm afraid. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Hi Chris no you are not missing anything, just my scatterbrain head, I am still at two and sevens over this not being a truly scale model, it leaves me doing neither one thing nor the other. You will have to excuse the chaos Anyway when I started looking at the wing I decided I didn't want the struggle I had with the Chipmunk hinges. with all the trial fitting of the ailerons those nust got done up and undone so much and it was fiddly. And that was with the hinges accesible under the wing. These are buried in the aileron leading edge!! So I have opted for Robarts with extender tubes. Chris the hinges will work fine, even with RDS, I am just not up to fiddling with the 10BA nuts, bolts, and washers. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 looking more at the ailerons I decided if I am going off piste, then I ought to don a hoodie some decent shades and go for it. The ailerons are the wrong shape, and they are made from half a tree, wasteful and heavy. I like to use air where I can. So using the aileron profile I made a sort of frame outlining the shape I want. I used some really soft almost white balsa. I had considered foam but this has worked well. The pictures should explain the idea, and the result! Firstly I added a strip of 19x 3.5mm balsa (1/8) x under the 1/16 core overlapping by 3.5mm (1/8) Sorry for the mixed numbers, but the wood and my ruler are are different Another oice of 3.5mm was added above, to the front of the aileron leading edge, 8mm x 3.5mm The leading edge was then sanded and a chamfer added. Then another piece of 3.5mm to form the leading edge. once the edges were rounded a little, the fit was tested Now the upper surface of the aileron is tightly shrouded against the wing. I will have to slide some sandpaper in and ease the fit as it actually touches at the moment, they are much lighter than solid block. I am well pleased with that. The shrouded effect is equally nice on the underside. I have still to add the lower ribs to the aileron, but leaving them off until the end kept everything flat to the board-ish Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 22/02/2019 15:44:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 So rest of the ribs and capping strips, upper and lower added. A quick sanding and it looks pretty good, need to make the slots for the hinges to poke through and cut a section for the RDS "box". Might do the other aileron first, see if I can make a matching set Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 lovely work as usual Danny. the master strikes again. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Thanks Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 There is surprisingly quite a lot of work in the ailerons, but managed to make a second that looks similar to the first And yes I have a left and a right, though it was touch and go for a while Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 Amazing skills, Danny. But then I guess that's what taking you to the level of Mastership... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 Thanks Chris, should have been easier than the first however even with bits already cut I still got a part wrong and had to re do one bit..... Anyway thought I had better take a look at the RDS installation. If you are not familiar with RDS, I showed all about it in the scale column last month, you didn't miss it did you? First I made a couple of what I call top hat sections on the lathe, these are just 20 mm outer section and 10 mm inner. a 3 mm tapping for an allen threaded stud. this clamps a 2.5 mm piano wire rod which when twisted operates the control surface. I also made a mount for the servo, and positioned it in the wing. No glue yet, the servo/push-rod and bend in the piano wire has to fall exactly on the hinge-line for it to work properly. So everything is loose for now. A bit stuck now as I have lost my strip of mellamine worktop edging to make the box, might have to order more Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 A bit more detail on the cunning disguised in these simple beasties: The OD is 20mm as I said, the od of the output shaft is 10mm. the hole in the centre is 2.5mm and that is the diameter of the piano wire in this instance. There is a recess on the flange that faces the servo disc to accommodate the bulge of screw head. the servo screw is trapped between the alloy disc and the servo output disc. The servo disc is fixed to the alloy top hat via 2 x M2.5 screws. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Not much to report other than the wings and ailerons are sanded to shape. I ordered some melamine online for the RDS pockets and it arrived today. It's not melamine it's plastic.... so thats a fiver wasted and its gone in the bin. I had a rather more concerted look in the garage and this time I did find some. Not the roll I was looking for but a toll none the less. You get a roll with worktops when you buy them, so that you can edge them. Most people throw them in the bin. Don't do that, squirrel it away. But don't do a me and forget where! So hopefully tomorrow I can make up the pockets and get the RDS installed Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 ooh. i shall watch how you do it with great interest. not started my ailerons yet. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 But is that the colour melamine you wanted Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 As Danny seems to be choosing a camouflage deco for his Yugo Fury, the melamine with its 'urban camo' scheme is a perfect match I think, Martian. Especially at the inside of the RDS ply box... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 Ahhhh I will have to keep you all in suspense I am afraid. I am still pondering the subject, the Yugo Fury is not cast in stone yet, nor is the undercarriage. I am going to have a quick go at the forward cowl ring in litho plate. It looks to be the toughest bit, if it's a mare at this scale then maybe I will go back to camo. However if it goes okay a shiny nosed one may be back on the cards. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 did a little more on the RDS setup. Its a fair bit of faf making the bits, but only took an hour or so. First rectangles of 1/16th ply were cut, you need a pair per box and one box per aileron. If you want to know the size of the pockets, I drew around a 2 x 4 pice of lego The laminate is cut so that the width is the same, but the length is about 6mm shorter. The laminate is glued to the ply, leaving the ply at each end free of glue if possible. I used 15 minute epoxy, used sparingly. I stacked all the parts between two blocks of steel, my small 90 degree engineers squares in this case, and clamped them in my modelling vice. Once dry they were cleaned up to ensure no glue was going to ruin the joint of the end pieces of ply that seperate the two sections. small lengths of 3mm x 3mm spruce were glued to one half of each pair. Two lengths of piano wire were cut and cleaned with some emery paper. The were then pinned to the bench and used to set the height of the spacer blocks. I sanded a small amount off the spacers so that the laminate touched the piano wire, then glued and weighted everything down. The object of the exercise is to make the pockets an accurate fit for the piano wire, it should slide in the pocket but not move up and down at all. The piano wire is yet to have the bend formed. I will do that when the aileron hinges are fitted and the exact hingeline found. Oooo I made two more RDS adapters for MF, getting quicker at making them, these only took a couple of hours. I discovered I can make two together then seperate them before drilling and tapping. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Okay I have struggled with those blessed hinges. In the end and having admired Stuarts lovely work, I have reverted back to the glass board hinges. I drilled the horns to accept some brass tube bushings, this was sanded flush, and a section of piano wire cut over length to thread right the way through from root to tip. This will not remain in one piece, but two, one will feed in from the root, and one from the tip. They will not quite meet in the middle as that is where the RDS box is going to be. I mounted the aileron part of the hinge first, with a tiny dab of CA until I was happy with the allignment. I had to sand all the upper hooks from the wing mounted portion of the hinge, and make them narrower to fit between the spars. All in all I made a bit of a pigs ear of it, but in the end the aileron sits nicely both above and below the wing. And falls under it's own weight, so not all bad, but what a lot of time faffing! Just the other side to do then its those blessed RDS pocket to fit.... Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 05/03/2019 00:54:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Managed a little time to look at the RDS box. The important thing with RDS is that the bend in the piano wire torque rod MUST sit on the hingeline. The box needs to sit behind that line but the slot must point straight at that hingeline. If you look at the section of the aileron you can see that the 1/16 sheet core sits just under the hingeline. I cut through this core and added a doubler underneath so that the box sits with its base level with the 1/16 core base. I relieved the leading edge to allow for it to move forward closer to the hingeline. This was to also allow clearance for the aileron covering. You don't want it sagging onto the box or it would look un-sightly. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Just a quick video to show the aileron waggling, the bend is around 38 degrees and gives lots of travel. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 05/03/2019 17:43:03 Edited By Danny Fenton on 05/03/2019 17:44:28 Edited By Danny Fenton on 05/03/2019 17:50:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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