Danny Fenton Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Moved on to the diagonals, using a slightly thinner piano wire, and some 24 swg tinned copper wire. Clamping bits of piano wire can be a challenge, I use two plates of hardwood, and a "C" clamp. This allows me to "lash" the other end and solder. Remove the clamp, lash and solder that end too. Even where the piano wire came very close to some very soft 1/8 no scorching ocurred. Not sure whether this is down to the powerful iron or Chris's amazing solder. Either way I am glad that bit is done. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 far neater job than i managed to do. soon be finished then Danny. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Yep only 90 percent left How did you cover yours then Tony, before fitted to the Centre section? That is the way I am leaning... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 i covered mine before fitting to the centre section, made more sence to me. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Yes covering just the underside so you do the screws from above is what I am thinking. Might pad the piano wire first with it still in place... thanks Tony Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 yup just cover the underside. i also did the rigging wires while i could move the centre section round easily on the bench. mine is glued on now so it is fixed for life. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 Thanks Tony I have had a couple of messages asking about this magic solder. So here is a piccy. I would suggest you club together to buy some as it is not cheap!! Chris and I split the cost between us I think this is it on the RS website, perhaps Chris Bott if he is watching can confirm? Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/06/2019 12:21:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 That's the stuff Danny It's 62%Tin, 36%Lead and 2%Silver. This gives it a slightly lower melting point of 179C. The main advantage over standard 60/40 tin/lead is that is doesn't suffer the "paste like" state as it cools (or warms). With 60/40, any movement during the pasty state can cause a very weak joint. This stuff is either liquid or solid and just "grabs" suddenly as it cools. It is also said to absorb far less gold from the gold plating of our connectors, the gold can also affect the joint. It also leaves joints nice and shiny I've been using it for years for everything and had just run out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 Thanks Chris, from me the stuff seems to spread the heat rapidly and just flows very quickly. Whether that's the solder lower melting point I don't know. But it is lovely to use. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 If it helps, I just tried a new search term, 179 solder. That came up with suppliers I've not seen before Such as this one who's description rather raves about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 Thanks Chris I added some soft 1/8 to the piano wire struts in an effort to make them look less like piano wire and a bit more like bits that should be on a Hawker Fury! Some rough shaping and they are getting there.... I have a cunning plan for the hiding that piano wire further, but more of that later Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/06/2019 17:56:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 Hi Danny / Chris Thanks for the tip re solder. I've ordered a 3.5m sample. Description does sound rather good so report to follow..... Cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 Snook to the workshop for some cave time, and fettled the centre section some more. Removed the upper wing CS to allow better access. I will fit the rigging wires and brackets, as well as route the servo wires (4) port/stbd/pos/neg. Need to think about the metal work over the top of this section, litho or foil. Foil will mean it has to be glassed, but litho will look different compared to the nose section which is foiled. Sleep on it I reckon Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/06/2019 22:51:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 Decided to keep it simple. I would just run a lead up each side, one for each of the aileron servos. These leads are glued to the struts, then whipped at either end to make sure they don't come loose. They will be covered in the wrapped binding later which should hide them a bit. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 Jury is still out on this bit........ I have wrapped the cabane struts in strips of torn silk, stuck down with shrinking dope. Two issues. 1. It didn't want to stick down very well 2. It didn't want to stick down very well I can always revisit, torn Solartex might have been a better option...... The silk has had 5 coats of straight dope and it still wants more...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 Took a look at the centre section rigging wires. compared to photos this is all very stand off so I shan't worry too much. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Sephton 1 Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 The weave on that silk looks very 'open' Danny, it's not surprising it's taking a lot of dope. As you say, maybe Solartex would have been better ... or maybe nylon or bias binding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 Hi Andy, I am mildly concerned about the silk. There was an article a few years ago, I think in Aeromodeller that discussed silk covering. Lightweight Habotai silk was recomended, this I duly purchased. Still cost £36 for two yards I notice Mike Woodhouse, Free Flight Supplies sells Esaki, in both lightweight 12gsm and a heavier 18gsm. would these be better do you think? The silk is not as coarse as it appears in the photo, remember the bit you see was torn, that may have pulled the threads a little? Where do others purchase silk, or are we a dying breed? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 I have used the lightweight Esaki from Mike Woodhouse and also a slightly cheaper silk from Harringtons Fabric and Lace of long Eaton. **LINK** If you want a sample, follow the link above and type in this product code: 4202/I (that's I for Ivory) It was recommended by Bill Dennis for FF Scale applications so it should have a finer weave than your stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 Thanks Alan,the web site doesn't seem very user friendly, cannot get to prices. I thought it was Bill Dennis that suggested the Habotai that I have. But I did order it a few years ago now. If the silk is only slightly cheaper from Harringtons I may as well order from Mike I guess. he doesn't advertise any white, but I don't suppose the colour will matter as it will be overpainted. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 If it's any help Danny I used solartex on the uc struts then sprayed with rustoleum chrome I am happy with it and will do the same on the centre wing struts . On another point I would have wrapped the silk using weak pva glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 Yes thats a good idea on the diluted pva. It seems my silk is momme 8 and the good stuff is momme 4. I can find 5.5 but no 4 I find solartex always wrinkles eventually, and as some of my models are more than ten years old wanted to avoid Solartex. But wrapped in strips should be okay.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 That's what I did Danny wrapped the legs in strips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 8, 2019 Author Share Posted June 8, 2019 Thanks Martian, perhaps those that haven't done this bit yet should consider that approach? Martin F pointed out a measurement that I had not checked, thanks Martin very valid observation! The distance from the leading edge to the front of the centre section forward bulkhead should be 70mm. Mine is pretty close, not going to lose any sleep over the discrepancy....... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Hi Danny what is the reason/advantage of using two channels for the aileron .thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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