Richard Mallam. Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Hi Danny, apologies for silence, notwithstanding, I have been following your Metalcoat application closely and it is wonderful to see it done properly.. I used the same on my Fury, but alas, I did not glass beforehand, which has resulted in a somewhat substandard finish as the underlying balsa was too soft. A learning experience! I do recall trying to source the rubbing stick that you are using, but could not get one - where did you get yours from? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 I remember Martian, and great they look too What thickness material did you use, Martin F is going to try with the thin litho, I couldn't work it that far before it got too thin and had to go up a size. You will have to do a video and show us how its done Martin. I am more a tease the material into shape. The K&S is a little thicker than I am using, and may not be so willing to tease into shape. I really must get a small English wheel, though still probably wouldn't help with small parts. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Hi Richard the blending stick is supplied with the Flite Metal kit, along with a scouring pad, ruler and permanent marker Click on the link, and you will see they are less than £3 on Amazon for a set of 4. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 I think you would have to make a small English wheel, Danny. I have often thought about doing one based on a cast iron G cramp, but these days have little need for it. And even less for the lovely hardly used full sized one I have! I havce used K&S ally to make a complete Morgan 3 wheeler body in 1/32nd scale and have just made a model of John Bolster's Bloody Mary hillclimb Special in the same material, including the "radiator surround". Once again beaten over a steamed pear pattern, so it will definitely go round tight shapes, without annealing. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Hi Danny i tried a few thicknesses but the final results was with the thicker material in fact it may have been K&S materials ,I anealed the Ali over the gas stove and unlike you I made a female mould and hardened the surface and as you rightly say it had to be re-anealed several times i initially formed it with a teaspoon then a combination of rounded balsa stick and hardwood stick i made several at varying degrees of quality as you point out the thin stuff splits the more it's worked foil was useless . As for a small English wheel i searched the tinternet worldwide and could not find such a thing it would have made the whole process of litho plating easier. Me make a video i could not emulate your fine skills. I think only lots of practise will get the best results . Crack on Danny I'm waiting for you to do the rigging 😜 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Actually Martian, you have reminded me that I said something in the video that is not quite right. As you have just said you can aneal with a normal flame, I still had my silver soldering head on. BTW anybody want to see how I silver solder? I can feel another video coming on, or is that what you were implying when you say you are waiting for me to do the rigging? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 One problem with making a miniature English wheel is deciding what range of anvils and base wheels to have in order to be of any real use. I had considered for my model cars just scaling a full size wheel as the curves would all be in scale to the model panels. I really think it might be a suitable project to consider making. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Yes it would, I often need to make cowls and heavier litho and lightweight alloy sheet would be much easier to work. There are bench mounted units for around £200 And I was sure Proxxon did a small modelling one, but cannot see it now. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 My full sized one was a fair bit dearer than that, but my dear bride considered it a splendid present and so it was, but part way through building my Austin 7 Special I lost all my storage and had to get rid of it all. The wheel is all that remains along with a large box of hand coachbuilding hammers, dollies, etc. I occasionally use them on my son's 1951 Triumph Renown, but they are largely unused. I suppose with a miniature wheel should come a miniature stump for starting the process. Hmmm, getting more complicated! Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Yes please for silver solder vid Danny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Now you have me wandering off topic......... English wheel from a C clamp.... Must focus.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Ahhh it wasn't Proxxon, it was Chronos! £194....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 That's the kind of thing I have. Just a slightly bigger base. Useless for models except it's excellent for removing digs and dents in older sheets of material! A rather OTT use for such a machine, but a miniature would be good, or are you saying that IS a miniature, being Chronos and all that? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 I think I would use ball races as the flatter wheel and simply make new upper anvils (wheels) on my lathe and mount them on smaller ball races. I must give it some thought. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 now that looks the job Danny but maybe still to big for the smaller litho work ... yes a silver solder video would be good particularly in relation to model making Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Mallam. Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Danny, thanks for the info regarding the blending stick. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 You are welcome Richard, I will confess I had not seen one before, but they are perfect for burnishing down the foil Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Where were we...... grasped the nettle and took on the other bulge..... Close enough I think? I was chatting to Martin F and he has done something different which I think would have been better. He has taken a mold from the glass bulges and is going to form the litho plate into the bulges. This should mean his will be identical. Mine are not, but befits the tired look I am looking for (excuse No 27 in scale modellers rule book) Okay Martin F what next?? D Edited By Danny Fenton on 27/11/2019 21:41:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will -0 Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Looks great, pointy hawker biplanes really are good lookers, if hard to model. I'm blessed by being just up the road from Duxford where there's usually at least two on site! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 Hi Will, cannot argue. But lots of work Got the dope brush out again and finished off the 2nd layer of teabag tissue on the upper wing CS. two coats of thinned non shrink, and two of banana oil has it nicely sealed Still wondering about rib tapes.... Seemed a shame not to take a look at the trim adjuster and tissue the remaining side of the fin while the dope brush was out Hopefully more tomorrow. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 Hi Danny Looking at your centre section, you seem to have some extra spanwise peices of balsa between some ribs. Whats this for ? cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 1, 2019 Author Share Posted December 1, 2019 Hi Martin, those webs or braces strengthen the outer rib from bowing under the tension of the tissue and dope. Spreads the load inboard. I should have made the 4 upper wing root ribs from ply really. The balsa was too thin, and too soft. But if you study the full size it is a bit gappy around the wing joins. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 01/12/2019 10:47:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 1, 2019 Author Share Posted December 1, 2019 Added some heavyweight tissue rib tapes, not sure how successful this is going to be, but the surface needs something to bring it alive. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 looks good Danny painting will show it up well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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