Diamond Geezer Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Hi guys As I can’t see the tank in my acrowot due to it being filled in with expanding foam wasn’t me it’s second hand how can I tell which tube has the clunk on it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 How many pipes ? 3 ? Label then. What type of tank, a slec coloured top one ? Over... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 3 pipes white plastic non see through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Can you post a picture.... Do you have a largish capacity syringe ? Is tank square/rectangular ? Questions make answers easier ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Ok, to save time ( for me ) label pipes 1, 2 and 3. Let's assume 3 is clunked pipe. You have some small diameter Boden cable like push bike gear cable. Make sure the " probe end" is completely barb free, else it may dig in and push a pipe off. With the nose of plain pointing upright vertically, gently feed the probe end in up the pipe till it comes out of the clunk in the tank. You may be able to see the probe end touching the tank bottom, or shaking the plane does the clunk now not clunk about so much, or at all ? Be carefully so you don't puncture the pipe or push anything off, a barb free probe end. You have a one in 3 chance. Gently pushing and turning the Boden cable ( so it don't unwind !! ) Into the pipe is a good idea. If you can post a picture, do so. A slec coloured top tank has a central clunk, and 2 open vent holes next to each other at the top with tank horizontal. There are some other access holes blocked, but hopefully not opened out and used. An other method requires a liquid.... Post a picture... Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Diamond Geezer said: Hi guys As I can’t see the tank in my acrowot due to it being filled in with expanding foam wasn’t me it’s second hand how can I tell which tube has the clunk on it. Thanks I would be tempted to remove the tank and replace all of the plumbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 25 minutes ago, Rich Griff said: Ok, to save time ( for me ) label pipes 1, 2 and 3. Let's assume 3 is clunked pipe. You have some small diameter Boden cable like push bike gear cable. Make sure the " probe end" is completely barb free, else it may dig in and push a pipe off. With the nose of plain pointing upright vertically, gently feed the probe end in up the pipe till it comes out of the clunk in the tank. You may be able to see the probe end touching the tank bottom, or shaking the plane does the clunk now not clunk about so much, or at all ? Be carefully so you don't puncture the pipe or push anything off, a barb free probe end. You have a one in 3 chance. Gently pushing and turning the Boden cable ( so it don't unwind !! ) Into the pipe is a good idea. If you can post a picture, do so. A slec coloured top tank has a central clunk, and 2 open vent holes next to each other at the top with tank horizontal. There are some other access holes blocked, but hopefully not opened out and used. An other method requires a liquid.... Post a picture... Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 26 minutes ago, Rich Griff said: Ok, to save time ( for me ) label pipes 1, 2 and 3. Let's assume 3 is clunked pipe. You have some small diameter Boden cable like push bike gear cable. Make sure the " probe end" is completely barb free, else it may dig in and push a pipe off. With the nose of plain pointing upright vertically, gently feed the probe end in up the pipe till it comes out of the clunk in the tank. You may be able to see the probe end touching the tank bottom, or shaking the plane does the clunk now not clunk about so much, or at all ? Be carefully so you don't puncture the pipe or push anything off, a barb free probe end. You have a one in 3 chance. Gently pushing and turning the Boden cable ( so it don't unwind !! ) Into the pipe is a good idea. If you can post a picture, do so. A slec coloured top tank has a central clunk, and 2 open vent holes next to each other at the top with tank horizontal. There are some other access holes blocked, but hopefully not opened out and used. An other method requires a liquid.... Post a picture... Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 Pics of my tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Ok, well foamed in by the looks of things....some surgery needed to remove that tank which is not a square/rectangular slec tank. Probably has a bung type fitting. Take engine and mount off to inspect the front end area. I tend to agree with early bird to be sure but the pipes do look a bit " newish". Check front of tank, post a picture, before any surgery. I think thin Boden wire technique would apply but now is the time to check plumbing, not at the flying site on Sunday morning after having just driven 30 miles to get there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 First pressure test, seal two pipes and blow into other, pinch tube to hold pressure in tank for two mins. If no puff when you let go dig it out. To find clunk line. With all lines held above the top of right way up level tank fill through any of the pipes until they other two overflow. Then attach syringe to any of the lines and suck out contents. Only the clunk line will return all or nearly all of what you put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Ps, before you go in, just remove the engine to inspect the front of the tank... The newer pipe is probably to the carb, the whitish pipe is probably from the exhaust pressure nipple, cannot see the third pipe. I hope the engine mount screws are foam free, I get that ain't ! Does the tank sit in a "box" inside the nose area ? Assess everything to do with the plumbing, dies the plane have the original engine ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 That's the standard kit tank. If it was me, I'd dig the tank out and replace all the plumbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 3 minutes ago, David P Williams said: That's the standard kit tank. If it was me, I'd dig the tank out and replace all the plumbing. Looks like the external tubes have been replaced. What condition the internals are in would be a worry to me. While in the workshop I would replace it all and thereby make sure I am not messing about at the field with an engine that will not run reliably and potentially lose the model. I have seen it too many times before, both time wasted and lost models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 59 minutes ago, J D 8 said: First pressure test, seal two pipes and blow into other, pinch tube to hold pressure in tank for two mins. If no puff when you let go dig it out. To find clunk line. With all lines held above the top of right way up level tank fill through any of the pipes until they other two overflow. Then attach syringe to any of the lines and suck out contents. Only the clunk line will return all or nearly all of what you put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 Pressure test is ok what baffles me is there are 2 pipes at the bottom of the tank and 1 at the top I thought it would be the other way round ie the 2 breathers at the top and the clunk one at the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Does the tank front end have a central bung and screw ? Someone said your tank looks like the one supplied with the kit, could they post a picture or confirm pipe entry points ? 3 brass pipes enter the tank centrally thru the bung ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 It's the kit one, kind of oval shaped with two flat sides. Think the bung came with two through holes and a third part way through that you can open out for a three pipe system. I have clunk feed, one pipe to the top of the tank for exhaust pressure and the third to the bottom of the tank for fill and drain, but who knows what the builder of the model did. It's a circular bung, so the pipes can be in any position going to who knows where. Hack it out and re-plumb it, it's the only way you can be confident with it. Clunk lines do deteriorate too so replace it to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 I tend to agree no matter how pain full, unless the bung has a centre screw meaning it could be removed with pipe work. Can you get it out damage free, can you get a new bung ? Your decision... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Sometimes the preformed metal tubes fit better with the bug 'upside down.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Hi guys thanks for all the info sorted it out pre.sure test was ok used the cable technique to find the clunk one then removed centre screw turned bung round so the filler and breather are at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 Cool, no leaks etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 All good thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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