Building from scratch

[hotspur]

Well, Phil

I'm certainly no expert.

However,

 I've still got a V-tail glider which I fly with a Futaba Challenger (pre-computer) radio. The servo sits in a sliding tray which moves a short distance. You can buy or make the tray.

In the case of this 'plane, two channel, the rudder is quite important. Not so much for an aileron model, for simple manoevering.

David

[Phil 9]

Thanks Dave

The model im building has ailerons and in the original V tail the write up describes the V rudder as not been as effective as a conventional rudder and only really gets used to straiten up on take off. I am very tempted to build with no rudder I have seen some 2 ch trainers with aileron elevator only but I dont know how much this will affect the performance. Will it limit the model too much.

I would be very interested to see how your sliding tray works. got any pics?

[Former Member]

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[hotspur]

Hi Phil

My tray is a commercial one, but having seen one it is easy to make one from ply.

It takes me all my time to do words, not yet up  to speed on pictures. All it is, is three pieces of eighth or so flat plastic and two bits of bike spoke.

Imagine a little bed about 3.5" * 2" ,  The ends are fixed down  in fus and joined by two rails (spoke size) on which slides a plate just big enough to take two servos. One operates 2 pushrods, one to each elevator (elevon?) side , the other servo is attached by a short pushrod to the front end of the bed post and causes the slide to go back and forward carrying both servos.

Move the aileron stick (or rudder if you prefer) and the tail works like an aileron. Move the elevator stick and the slide moves ,so just like an elevator.

Alternatively, you could spend up to £10 on an electronic plug-in to do the same job, but us Luddites never learn.

Do you know what you cut away at when a plan says ,"Cut the ailerons free " ? (ref Werewolf).

David

[Phil 9]

Well the main structures of my first ever build are ready. For ease the V tail is converted to a conventional rudder ( the sliding tray sounds great but a little advanced for me at this stage).

Im not sure at this stage if im building a model or just turning perfectly good balsa into scrap.

The edges do not line up neatly like the build in RCM&C (Nov 08). Im still sure at this stage I can make it fly but it wont be a pretty model. I guess i was expecting a little too much from myself for a first build. It has also taken me a lot longer to build than expected. Having said that I an enjoying the build and Im determined to finish it and fly it.

[Phil 9]

Well its coming together and almost ready for covering. I would love to hear your ideas for a colour scheem. I guess the cheapest scheme would be one solid colour but the model is quite a square plain shape with lots of blank surface area. So i think it will need a good colour scheme to bring it to life.

If you have any other tips for decoration i would like to hear them too. ie where to get good stick on decals or cheaper decoration ideas

[Former Member]

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[Ernie]

Hi Phil,

I try to look on a  colour scheme as 1 functional, and 2 aesthetic..I find that matt black underneath is easy to apply, and isn't seen much when on the ground.  A light colour on top, with simple decoration cut from film is good, eg big check.......I usually plan the whole thing on the computer. Finally, formula one motorcars are a good source of inspiration.

ernie

[Phil 9]

Thanks Eric I think you are right about going over the top.

The RCM&E original looks like this (see pic). But as you suggested i think i should replace the white as is will get too easaly lost. but not with yellow

[Phil 9]

Thanks Erinie

a quick question for you though.  If I cut shapes from film does it stick straight onto the main film. I read that overlaying film is a bit tricky. but looking a the pic from RCM&E it looks like thats what they did on the wing edges

[hotspur]

Up in the air, where the trouble begins, from down on the ground the underside looks dark grey, so colour it dark blue because whatever you colour it , it looks grey when it matters. So, the darker , the better.

Us humans do not see grey very well.

Topsides, have some light colour (say yellow), with horizontal stripes from front to back in a contrasting colour (say red) or red and white. (or red/white and blue).

For the wing, it is similar, but sunburst (say red on yellow) on top will let you see which is up.

Same for tail. 

Nice sunburst on the fin/rudder will do.

It helps if you can see it, although you still have to fly it.

[Former Member]

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[Ernie]

Hi Phil,

Solarfilm make a stick on decor material. Here it is solartrim .......you just cut it out and stick it on..It's a bit like the material used for the lettering that white van man uses on his transit..A wee tip, I think, but be careful, because I've never used it with solartrim...mix some  water and washing up liquid, wipe it over where you are going to put the solartrim...Now, you can slide the trim around 'till it is placed to perfection...squeese the water out with a credit card, and let the whole sheboodle dry.. but try it first, I have only  used it for decals

ernie

[Phil 9]

Ok I will have red wings with either matt black or red and black check. under side but i need a light bright colour for the top side (and maybe a sunburst pattern on the wings). Yellow  or white are the obvious choices but does anyone know a good looking alternative. im not to keen to make it yellow

[Matt]

With my eyes I find the brightest of 'Dayglow' colours I can find are the best. I have one model with yellow/ red stipes...I havn't lost it yet .

[Phil 9]

Well in after more advice (as usual lol)

I plan to run my model using an electric brushless motor and not an ic engine.

I bought the recommended size motor but im unsure what prop size to use. The plan does not make any recommendations on that score. Looking at the pics from RCM&E and comparing to the plan it looks to be a 9 inch prop. The motor instructions recommends three prop sizes 9" x 4.5"/ 10" x 6"/ 10" x 5"

How do i choose which one without paying out for one of each and what effect will the different choices have.

[Tim Mackey]

The largest prop will pull the most current and provide the most power. The smallest will be opposite to that.

I guess you can figure out where that puts the middle size one

large diameter and low pitch will give you thrust /climb - a bit like low gear in the car

small diameter and high pitch gives high speed but lower thrust - like top gear in the car.

Does that help?

[Phil 9]

Thanks Timbo

I can see the larger prop will give more power. My ESC has a high rating of 60A so should cope with the extra current. I guess i could play safe and go for the mid size and im sure it will fly.

Im guessing (I hope this is correct) the smaller prop will give me more flight time from the battery.

for me as a beginner speed is not important I need more control at lower speeds (Im still stabbing in the dark a bit)

[Phil 9]

I think the three  options are close anyway. at my level (novice) will it make a noticable difference

[Tim Mackey]

I think you will be surprised actually just how much difference there could well be between the smallest and largest. The smallest prop will certainly consiume less current, so theoretically yes, but of course the only real test is to fly it - if it doesnt suit the models flying parameters, then it may be struggling abit to keep her flying nicely, so therefore you could end up using WOT for more of the flight, thereby reducing actual duration proportionally.

E props around that size are not that expensive, and I usually buy one either side of the expected best one, and experiment accordingly. The ones not used, usually find a home on something else later on.

[Phil 9]

Thanks again timbo.

Its definitely not an easy hobby to start out. its a steep learning curve

[Tim Mackey]

It can be I ageee.... however more and more kit is appearing these days which is pretty much "plugNplay".

[Phil 9]

Well I got some covering on. Not a perfect job by any stretch of the imagination but it will do as a first project. After all my excitement about colors and patterns I found myself restricted by the main colors most hobby shops (even online) have in stock. But as Eric said before its probably best not to be to intricate as beginners models tend not to last forever.

The covering around the curved edges are not too good. I found out a little late I could getter better results with a hottter iron. I will know next time.

I still have a long list of jobs left to finish this model.

Add the control surfaces, make a cock pit, add an undercarage, and install all the radio gear and motor.

[Doug Ireland]

If that's a first attempt Phil then you should be quite pleased with yourself, doesn't look too bad to me.

[Clark Ross]

hi phil . i have been reading the responces to your questions they should be vary helpfull .

one thing that has not been covered is the type of airplane you should start off with since you are new to the hobbie. most beginners want to start of with an airplane that  they don't have the flying skills to handel . they spend a lot of time building only to destroy it on their first flight.

you will have better luck starting out with a trainer ,one with just three chanels (no ailerons) a slow flyer or a powered glider or an indoor plane like the vapor. they will crash many times with no damage and give you time to develop the flying skills you need. it just isn't as easy as it looks.

another helpful thing is if there is a club in your area join it  you will learn alot from observation and asking questions off the members.

clark