MikeQ Posted November 20, 2022 Share Posted November 20, 2022 Hello started on an F86 Sabre from the 2020 mass build. Laser Cut Sailplanes short kit and Vortex canopy. Wont do a blow by blow but might asks some questions along the way. I’ll shamelessly steal all the best ideas from other builds. Probably Glass and Klasskote 2K finish if I go for RAF or USAF camo finish as i have the paint from before before. Cheers Mike 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted November 20, 2022 Author Share Posted November 20, 2022 (edited) Here’s one i made earlier 😂. Freeflight Veron (Phil Smith) DF for those that remember😬. That would be the rough idea of the scheme. Either that or the USAF one attached. Made a start by cutting all the strip from sheet. Not sure if I’ve mentioned this one before but I use a Chris Edge carbon spar cutting jig which doubles up as a balsa stripper par excellence. Its really designed for cutting tapering width carbon spars for F1a,b,c type models. The barrel micrometer allow very fine adjustment of cut sizes. will make rear keels from laminated 1/8 strip as i find that easier and quite strong. cheers mike Edited November 20, 2022 by MikeQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted January 14, 2023 Author Share Posted January 14, 2023 (edited) Finally getting started proper as ive been distracted knocking oit a couple of slope soarer Obelix models and an RC conversion of a Mercury Tiger Moth with an Irvine Mills. Will have to build wing in two parts as although i have plenty building boards they arent big enough for the Sabres sweep. noticed some of the formers are indeed a little short top to bottom. Edited January 14, 2023 by MikeQ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted June 12, 2023 Author Share Posted June 12, 2023 (edited) Hello More progress on the Slingsby Petrel. I’ve got my act together on the Sabre wings as I need the building boards for the Petrel. Robart hinges, bottom mounted for the flaps. Savox 255MGs for servos all round. Aileron laminted from 2 x 1/4 sheet and sanded to shape. Lots of balsa dust and I’ve got quite allergic to it after 40+ years. For those similarly affected, if you can, its a god send to have a Henry or similar hooked up to a ‘sanding plate’. Means you need a hole in your worktop but totally cuts down in dust. Just noticed some laser cutting is a bit amiss. Missing slots, misaligned holes, some formers not quite big enough and other with slots in wrong place. Easy to fix but is this a known issue with the kit or do I just have a duff ‘test shot’. All very good apart from thise minor gripes 😀 Edited June 12, 2023 by MikeQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 Mike, The slots in F10 should be identical. They help to align the tailplane bellcrank and fin. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted June 12, 2023 Author Share Posted June 12, 2023 (edited) Lol, go figure 😀. which ones the right one? The formers don’t match up with the plan in a lot of cases. F7 slot is MIA altogether and F4 holes don’t line up. I can see in other peoples builds they might not have the same issues although maybe some. Not a big deal, fettling those little issues is a lot less hassle than cutting all the formers in the first place. Wings are bang on. Taking more time to think about servo setup than build them. cheers mike Edited June 12, 2023 by MikeQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 Mike, the correct former shape should be on the plan. If not send me a PM. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 Mike, I have spoken with Cliff Evans and unfortunately, he is currently unable to post on this forum. However, he has found, and corrected, the errors in his laser cut files. If you have any more issues please contact him via his website. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted June 13, 2023 Author Share Posted June 13, 2023 Hi Martin thanks ... i’ll send him any issues I find. Wasn’t a big issue but did wonder why some of my formers didn’t look the same as other posters. Theses things happen 😀 Can I ask how you finished the natural metal Sabre in your logo? Its looks spot on. I might want to finish a cartoon scale Obelix I’ve glassed as a WW2 Tony colour scheme which woukd be silver base. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 Mike, That model was fiber-glassed and then sprayed with Vallejo Model Air paint. Various panels were masked off and either a drop of white to lighten the base colour, or black to darken it, was added to the airbrush cup. It only needs a subtle colour change to make the panel stand out. Martin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 Thinking of embedding the rudder servo directly in the fin. Looks just thick enough. Any suggestions for decent quality ser os that would have enough torque that would be a mm or two thinner than the Savox 255’s? Going to taper the fin and elevators towards the tips so thinner the better. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted August 5, 2023 Author Share Posted August 5, 2023 (edited) Picking up on the Sabre after having quickly (for me) knocked out a Chilli Breeze in the meantime. Looks a bit agricultural but just testing fits and alignments of ailerons and bottom hinged flaps. Servo height needs adjusting so doesn’t interfere with wing skin. The 2/56 blind nuts will but will be recessed into skin and as its going to be glassed should not be visible. Fin laminated with carbon veil for stiffness and tapered. Edited August 5, 2023 by MikeQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chantler Posted August 5, 2023 Share Posted August 5, 2023 Great build - and curious as to shiny chrome bits on ends of hinges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted August 5, 2023 Author Share Posted August 5, 2023 (edited) Ah, just there temporarily, wheel collets, to hold he Robart hinge pins tight but so i can adjust back and forth until happy all aligned and all. Nothing worse than trying to make sure ailerons/flaps are not binding and work right if the hinges are moving around. ive used 1.2mm pegs in holes drilled through hinge pins in alierons/flaps for same purpose. I’ll fit the servos and linkages and test all works with no binds etc. Looks brutal but as its getting glassed it will all be swept uner the carpet so to speak. mike Edited August 5, 2023 by MikeQ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted August 10, 2023 Author Share Posted August 10, 2023 Hurray ... started planking. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted August 19, 2023 Author Share Posted August 19, 2023 Hi just on with drop tank. Before I start the second one thought it worthwhile to confirm dimensions. Is the G&M drop tank (flat top foam version) 38cm long? Hope i haven’t screwed up. Checked the sclale a bottom of drawing and it was 10cm end 2 end. cheers mike 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted August 19, 2023 Author Share Posted August 19, 2023 (edited) Ah, found reference to it in the Sabre build forum. 380mm long. Lol, RTFM. Edited August 19, 2023 by MikeQ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted August 27, 2023 Author Share Posted August 27, 2023 Bit more progress. Ready to add too sheeting to wings. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted September 1, 2023 Author Share Posted September 1, 2023 More progress. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted December 15, 2023 Author Share Posted December 15, 2023 (edited) Bit more progress now I’m getting the Office/model shop sorted. WAY too cold to be in the garage. Planking done for the most part. On with buddy in the cockpit. lol, remember when Aeromodelling was ‘jumpers and goalposts’ like in the picture. I wasn’t looking quite so happy woth myself as the kid in the pic back in 1981 with a DC Spitfire engined Tomboy with flat diesel fuel and no idea what I was doing. They were the days 😂 Edited December 15, 2023 by MikeQ 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chantler Posted December 17, 2023 Share Posted December 17, 2023 Looking really nice 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted December 28, 2023 Author Share Posted December 28, 2023 Hi bit more progress and obviously too much time on my hands. What else to do when the weatger is too cold to go in the garage or get out on the mountain bike 😀. Why not take on a job that is bigger than it looks. Thought i’d try and do a decent scale-ish cockpit out of 3D prints and styrene sheet etc. Wish i hadnt started now 🤣. Downloaded the stls for the instruments and resin printed them. Vallejo/Tamiya acrylics to paint them. Evergreen sheet for the panel frames etc. Have sealed the front formers etc so no gaps and given a coat or two of non shrink dope to prevent dust flying around inside once finished. Will probably do same again just before final assembly of all the bits (they all pop out at the minute). Don’t ask how i painted inside the footwells all around after sheeting etc. But it was a pain. For the instrument panel i thought I’d try and improve on what i did with my RC conversion of a free flight Mercury Tiger Moth where i cut the instruments out with a scalpel. Thought i’d use my never used ‘Thinliner’ circle cutter. Problem is, how to centre super accurately on top of the Boots photo printed instrument of choice. After a bit of head scratching I came up with a jig in Inventor2022. 3D printed and bingo. Works a treat. If i was a dog i’d lick ............ its a bit of a trial and error faff to get the Thinliner set up for the ‘exact’ diameter to be a sliding fit in your instrument hole but fortunately the Sabre stl I downloaded only has two sized holes 😀. 3D printed some tiny butt plugs for the back to help get the instruments to the right depth evenly. You can even thinliner out glass faces over the top. Will use Vallejo gloss to glue in place plus a touch of 3D rwsin zapped with UV light on each plug on the back. hope the pics explain it. Still a bit of faffing to get it bang on but hope results will lok ok 😀. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted December 28, 2023 Author Share Posted December 28, 2023 (edited) More pics. Just need to make sure the instruments go in horizontal 🤣 The Tiger Moth examples were big enough to cut out with Swan Morton but was sure I could improve on that. The jig is a first pass with scrap transparency used for the ‘target hole’. Held on with double sided sticky tape. Will ‘posh’ it all up now I know it works. lol, defo too much time. Also played around with transfer sheets printing ‘data plates’. Results won’t be too bad applied over a white or silver background. Edited December 28, 2023 by MikeQ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted December 28, 2023 Share Posted December 28, 2023 Nice work Sir 😎 Love a good instrument panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeQ Posted December 31, 2023 Author Share Posted December 31, 2023 Haha ... when you know youve bitten off more than you can chew 😂 Seem to have been faffing for ages and getting no where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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