Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Steve Webbs in Frodsham list the Formosa II & £45 but its not on their website. It comes c/w that twin motor IPS thingy I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 We were toying with moving on to the GWS spits and Me 109's after we have destroyed the Formosas LOL again slope soarer versions at £18.99 just move the motors and other debris across LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Holloway Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Danny - Wattage is a slight worry. When I tested the set-up my Wattsmeter showed 40A+ at just over half throttle - so I didn't open up further! Having said that, after a ten-minute flight the motor and ESC are cool and the lipo is only slightly warm. That's flying mostly on half throttle or less, and using full throttle only briefly for vertical climbs etc. I've had over 50 flights so far and no problems, touch wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Crikey that is a worry 40A on 3 cells, (10 volts under load. Thats going to be roughly 400 watts, you are also pushing the battery if its only 12C. All you can do is what you are doing and thats to keep an eye on the temps. The thing people do forget is that props unload tremendously in flight and what seems horrendous static may be fine once the model is moving. This is where the Eagle Tree type inflight monitors come into their own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 40A on a Dualsky 15!!!!!! Aaarrggghhhhh!!! Thats getting very close to Magic Smoke territory...Methinks you need to prop down slightly. The Dualsky 15 is only rated at 25A max 35A for 15 sec. From the figures I assume its a 1330kv version....an 8x4 or something would be more appropriate!!!This is the problem with electric motors...put a big prop on an IC motor & it turns it slower....an electric motor sees it as a challenge & tries to reach its design speed, pulling more & more current until a) it gets there or b) something melts!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Hello all, the fibreglassing is finished. I used SP113 resin, goes on beautifully and did not use much, it hardens with a dry surface, not tacky as I thought it would be, I am not going to fill the weave, but will give it a light coat of spray paint... It feels very solid, almost like a veneered wing. Yes the covering has obviously added weight, but not enough to worry about. Waiting for the rain to stop so that I can fly it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Great news Richard really look forward to hearing how the first flight went. Does the glassing technique allow tight contours to be followed? The only bare surface finishing I have done is tissue and dope, but would like to try glass with either resin or poly-c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Danny, to my surprise, the glass went over the fairings behind the wing in one, no cutting or cheating.. I first sanded all the moulding nibs off the fuse. and wing, covered each fus. side separately then joined them. The top of the wing was one piece, nice and easy, bottom of wing in three pieces, but I think, with more experience or confidence it could be done in one. Rudder also covered. Tailplane and elevator not fibreglassed, just given a coat of epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster prop Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I'm a'returner' as well Marc. Back in the '70's I only had one model flyable at a time because my Digi-Fleet 27MHz receiver and servos all had to be changed over if I wanted to fly another, in those days I just flew slope soarers. The motor on your link is the 2408-21T, I've got one on a GWS stick mount, salvaged from the wreckage of my 1st Formosa. I'm refurbishing a Formosa I was recently given so may re-use the motor but the previous owner fitted a ply plate so I'll just bolt the motor mount onto it. My old Formosa was a great model to fly, much better on the 2408-21T and 2S than the 350 brushed motor and nicads. May use 3S on the next Formosa because the fuz has been hollowed out for a 3S battery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hi All, Interesting thread, I have a Mk 1 Formosa that I brought at the Nats a couple of years ago. I have also found an E-pro 2832 motor which I'm having difficulty finding any details on. Anyone know of these motors, J Perkins stocked them some years ago, but not any longer. Would it be suitable for the Formosa it's a 22 Turn motor. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Claridge Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 hi folks, i have just got a formosa mk2 i have 4 tower pro mg90 servo's and a choice of motors= dualsky xm400b or axi 2208/34. i plan to use 3cell lipos around 1600 mah with a 20 or 30 amp esc. will these servo's and one of the motors be right for this model and what prop should i be looking for. i know i should look this lot up but it does my head in i am just hoping some kind person can help thanking you in anticipation regards phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Claridge Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 just removed 8 oz of lead from the nose. this was half the weight of the plane with out sevo's or motor has anyone had to put that much lead in their model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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