kc Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 It could be that the Outerzone plan (from RCModeler ) is incomplete (i.e. does not show LE sheeting ) as it shows 1/16 capstrips to the rear of the tailplane ribs which means your ribs are correct. The photos on the Facebook build show a partially sheeted tailplane - appears to be sheeted both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8   The tailplane section shows top sheeting but not underneath - that's why I mentioned it the other day - it looked funny to me.  Now seems inset lower sheeting just at centre while upper surface has sheeting at front and cap strips behind.  The facebook photos may be an illusion of lower sheeting -just a shadow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Thanks kc.   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 Having confirmation from @kcthat I was on the right lines I fitted the LE and sheet. This morning cap strips, and centre sheet were dry fitted. Â Â This afternoon I will glue those and tidy up the LE sheeting. Â Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Rickett 102 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Looking good Steve, If you dampen the top side of the sheet just before gluing, it will adopt a curve and put less stress into the framework below. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 Thanks John, as it happens the tip sheet had gaps, so I dampened the top and used a covering iron on 110 deg. C and like magic the old glue had a second try when warmed up.  I am using the Peter Miller method for the leading edge.  Loads of sanding later, this is what the top looks like.  Having run out of enthusiasm for sanding, I am looking at the elevator construction.  With a 1/16" sheet top and bottom 3/8" balsa is needed for a neat fit. The plan says 1/4" sheet tapered to the TE, that's a lot of balsa going in the bin, the OZ plan says 5/16" which is even more going in the bin. Not wanting to feel guilty over the waste, and not having a Hamster, I am going to make it built up. 1/2" x 3/8" LE to start with, 1/4" ribs and extra balsa for the joiner. We will see tomorrow.  Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Cripps Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 Neat work as usual Steve. Â Have you thought about using one servo for each elevator half or perhaps 2 snakes from 1 servo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 Presumably built up but not sheeting the elevator?  Instead of just a balsa block to take the elev joiner I suggest you consider a sandwich of balsa with thin ply either side of the wire joiner to avoid the joiner loosening after a while ( common problem even with smaller models )  And make provision for the joiner reinforcement to take the elev horn as well - both sides in case you use Nicks suggestion of 2 servos/ snakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 17 hours ago, Nick Cripps said: Have you thought about using one servo for each elevator half or perhaps 2 snakes from 1 servo? No but I will now.🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 16 hours ago, kc said: Presumably built up but not sheeting the elevator? I was going to sheet the elevators but not now. Cap strips and ribs with local re-enforcements where needed should be strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 One built up elevator. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 and another one. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Two at a time, but only LE cap strips. 🤣  Second one glued in place.  Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 and a bit of shaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Interesting optical illusion in that latest photo - looks like a curved LE instead of straight!  Can you confirm that the DB Sport & Scale plan shows the tailplane is sheeted only on the upper surface?  The Outerzone /RCModeler plan omits sheeting altogether and seems like an error. As we don't want anyone to have a tailplane failure due to such an error it needs a correction to the Outerzone plan.  I will provide that correction unless you prefer to do it yourself.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Cripps Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 It's not very obvious on the Outerzone plan, at least at first glance, but the leading edge sheeting back to the spar is shown and is mentioned in the corresponding build article. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Well the cross section at the centre seems to show sheeting but it's not shaded in on the tailplane plan like the DB Sport plan that Earlybird is using. Â Capstrips are certainly shown. Â Â A rare error in an RCModeler plan! I reckon it's worth noting on Outerzone so that at least the next modeller can order the extra sheet of balsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Cripps Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Like I said, it's not immediately obvious but there is a long-dashed line just below the spar, along the edge of the centre section and along the edges of the cap strips. The sheeting is also shown on the tailplane cross-section.  I think it's down to how you interpret the drawing. Certainly I understand it now having seen Steve's build from the supplied parts but I probably would have missed it if building just from the plan. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 Yes, the OZ plan is different in some ways. It looks to me that the OZ plan and article are the original design whereas my plan is a more recent kit plan possibly enlarged. That's my thinking so if I make any changes then I am not tinkering with the original design. 🤣  Time for some hinges.    Steve  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 The hinges are Kavan Hinges - Small (26x11mm) 10pcs KAV0129, Model Shop Leeds my first thought was they are small, so I put four on the first elevator half. I am now thinking these Kavan Pin Hinge Standard 34 x16 mm, 1-11/32x5/8, 20 pcs. KAV0073/20, Model Shop Leeds would be better for this size of model. Â Any thoughts? Â Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 (edited) Well nobody else has offered any opinions so far..... I have never actually used those loose pin hinges as it seems to be too tricky to insert pins after building-in the hinges.  My view is that for a large model it's best to play safe with the elevator and use the larger hinges with pins already inserted.  But in either case secure the hinges with cocktail stick glued in and then snipped off (after glue dries) with nail clippers.    Edited February 27 by kc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Rickett 102 Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Steve, These Kavan hinges would be fine for your model, three for each elevator half would be sufficient. Before gluing, put a very light drop of oil on the pin and work it in, then glue the hinges with epoxy. Provided you've got some epoxy in the holes and a smear on the flanges, they won't pull out. Once you flexed the control surface a few times and satisfied yourself that all is moving freely, leave the glue to set.    The pins are quite easy to remove by pushing with a flat bladed screwdriver rather than trying to pull them out with pliers. When the model is completed you can reinsert the pins or if you prefer slide a length of piano wire through them all, though this means you'll have to bend over one end and trap it in the wood.    1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Thanks, kc and John. I am waiting for delivery of the larger hinges,😃  Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 and here they are.  just a bit stronger 🤣  and fitted   Now I can finish the wing tip and repeat for the other wing. It's that big I keep thinking it's a wing.😂  Steve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 One side done. 😊  Nearly and I am more than happy with this side.  Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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