Moving on to IC

[Stephen Grigg]

Hi John,I found installing an I/C engine less complicated than Electric.Ive become cvery used to the starting of the I/C engine,by being neat and methodical,and ensuring I stand behind the model when the engine has started.As you say the club members are unbelievably helpful and you quickly pick up how to correct any problems very quickly.Im now happy to take my Boomerang to the field most evenings on the way home from work and have a couple of flights to end the day.Keep us posted on the Seagull 40 ,Im  a fan of seagull  ARTF and will soon be looking for my first low wing trainer to progress to.What wing span is it

[Phil 9]

I to have just got my first ic powered model. I picked up a Magnum GP .40 engine second hand. it came with no instructins. Can anyone tell me what type of fuel I need. The only model shop for miles has run out of stock of fuel (I was warned it was poor for flying models). So i need to order some online.

[Stephen Grigg]

Is your engine 2stroke,if so 5% nitro with snthetic oil,or if its 4 stroke 10% nitro with synthetic.Imsure the more expert amongst us will be along soon.I bought some fuel on Friday and this is what the shop recommended

[Phil 9]

yes it is a two stroke. thanks for the info

[Phil 9]

Can I buy fuel online?

[flytilbroke]

With you being in Germany the guys at your club will be the best to ask. We can get fuel delivered in the UK. The suppliers only do four containers ( 5L x 4 ) at a time though and carraige can be a bit expensive.

[JC]

Stephen

 

The Seagull 40 has a 65 inch span and is designed for .40 to .50 2 strokes. I will post some pics as soon as I start to build.

 

regards

Jon

[Stephen Grigg]

Thanks Jon,Ive bought a Black Horse Super Air now,but evening flying makes starting it slow.eg first servo fitted the wrong way round so far

[JC]

Stephen

 

I,m going to start this weekend, the weather is poor so I wont be going to the field. I,ve read the instructions about ten times and have assembled the tank so I think its time to get a move on.

 

Jon

[Myron Beaumont]

Dear Jon

Can I make what might sound a silly suggestion to most as it is so obvious as not to be thought about.  Whether flicking the prop or  using a starter (not me !) I started from day one to conciously move my hand forwards well away from the prop and do a wide exaggerated circular movement to gain access to the needle valve / glow plug clip  etc from the rear . It soon becomes a reflex action /movement whether you have a highly visible prop or not .and can prevent uhforseen actions or responses in tricky moments eg engine suddenly suprising you at the wrong setting etc . It has been a procedure that I do automatically and prevented any mishaps with fingers (or starter leads in some cases ) It's just another question of being methodical !  On this type of procedural approach it's a bit like following a check list before flying everytime. As one gets older ( cough -cough ) it becomes even more important to follow set practises as one's marbles gradually disappear

Sorry  I sound like H & S but in this case sensible I hope 

[ken anderson.]

for a trainer use straight-save a bit of dosh-----when you move on to something more demanding you can then get some fuel with nitro in....don't bother with any bench running-prob do more bad than good----fit it in the trainer and for the first 1/2 dozen flight's..leave the motor running slightly rich(you won't need full power anyway)...after that you can lean it out a bit..............have fun along the way........

 

 

            ken anderson.....ne 1..............

[Phil 9]

My first IC trainer is going well 3 flights to date. Things happen lot faster than with my EP easy star but i am slowly getting used to it. I still have some problems though.

My Maiden flight was a disaster the plane nose dived in and caused some damage. I fixed the plane ok but the motor is slightly bent causing a lot of vibration. The motor was second hand too. All the screw heads are worn. Is is possible and worth while to fix or should I just replace it with a new one?

[ken anderson.]

hello phil-if the motor is "bent" and causing vibration- i would def invest in a new one-or second hand(if you know the seller)...vibration is a killer and will wreck your rx and model.............

 

  ken anderson............

[Phil 9]

I think you are right Ken thanks. Time for a new one.

 

Anyone have some advice on getting a value 40 motor

Edited By Phil B on 20/06/2009 12:20:57

Edited By Phil B on 20/06/2009 12:29:20

[Phil 9]

Also would i be better off going for a .46 I dont need the extra power for my trainer. But I plan to get a Graupner Caravalle as my next model and it reqiuers a .46. Or am I gumping the gun again.

Edited By Phil B on 20/06/2009 13:01:43

[ken anderson.]

plan ahead-me i would get an OS 46 ax.......few bob more than some---but pure quality-which will serve you for year's-once set up it will run like a swiss watch(remember them)-and won't require regular re-tuning etc.......

 

       ken(OS)anderson......................love them....

 

 

 

[Phil 9]

Ken been looking and fount this os .46 LA it is cheeper than the AX. Not sure about the difference

[Tim Mackey]

SC 46 ( and other sizes  ) are  -IMO- excellent VFM engines.

[Phil 9]

Ripmax engine is this a bargin or best avoided?

[Pete Stevens]

I fly slope and went into power after about 18months flying on slope, first plane was seagull lowwinger great plane but used a cheap glow engine and as a result one to many deadsticks lead to its doom. Then got black  horse, travel air and an OS engine. Very reliable easy to start and not much tinkering. I still fly mainly slope put I reckon if you can fly a coyote you could fly seagull or blackhorse low winger. Just spend more on the engine and get a good one then its all common sense. By the way I use 10% synthetic.

[Pete Stevens]

I had an SC 46 and it was wholey unreliable! Stick to OS.

[ken anderson.]

hello phil-the LA is what you call a plain bearing engine(the bearings are normally made out of bronze i think).....the AX will have true ball bearings in cage's-for the sake of a few quid i would get the AX......tell her indoor's you won it in a raffle.....or try a big box of choc's.......

 

 ken anderson.....

 

[Phil 9]

I guess if you want quality you have to pay for it. Thanks for the advice Ken. My only worry now is still in my own ability having bent one engine already. I have a strong suspicion the crash was cases by interference although I can not prove it. Should I invest in the best kit now or work with cheep stuff it wont matter if I damage. Either way it will cost a few quid

[Tim Mackey]

And I guess also that if you want to spend money on "designer labels" thats fine too.

I still maintain ( and I am not alone - I know for a fact that Peter Miller IC guru of these here pages ) and several other people agree with my assesment of the SC and indeed ASP ( same engine really ) are excellent little engines.

Each to their own, but you have asked for opinions. Try posting a question about which IC engines people recommend over in the IC engines section and see what response you get.

I am not knocking OS engines...they are for sure a quality piece of engineering, but these days especially, people need VFM, and there is much wider choice of equipment than there was 30 years ago when OS reigned supreme.

One should of course buy the best you can afford, but still apply the rule of VFM.

[JC]

Thanks for the input gents, particularly regarding safety Myron. I need abit of help with the aileron setup. I have only ever used a single servo with a torque rod. The Seagull uses a separate servo for each aileron. Do the push rods and horns get fitted both inboard, both out board or one inboard and one outboard. The instructions do not specify. I have tried to work it out using theTX and picturing the movement of the ailerons if I had conected them up but I'm a tad confused. I hope you can understand what I'm on about. I think they need to be both connected outboard.

Cheers Jon