Andy Freeman Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Posted by kc on 27/06/2009 00:36:21: My comments were meant to be taken seriously ! Position of theses holes affects wing incidence. KC, I know. Sorry about the glib comments. It stems from an earlier posting in the thread. I have a plan as cunning as a fox to sort the wing retainer and new F1.5 out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 The humour is fine and a good thing. As long as you realised the dowel holes alter the incidence BEFORE you glued! Dont ask me how I know........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Freeman Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 I seemed to have lost motivation for this project but picked it up again tonight. Made a 3mm birch ply extra former (as per Bob) and have epoxied in place. I then turned my attention to the motor mount which i guess needs the holes drilling for it prior to fuel proofing the tank bay. Already and waiting are an 8oz tank OS 35 max and Futaba 8ch rx. Here is the next bone headed question. What is the best kind of fixings to attach the motor mount? those captive screw things or normal bolts washers and nyloc nuts? Thanks in advance for any advise..... Edited By Andy Freeman on 22/07/2009 22:42:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 How easy are they to get to ,the easier thet are the better job you can .do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Andy. The captive ( blind ) nuts are the way to go , makes the motor mount easily removable. Jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Carr Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Yep defo blind nuts as Jim says. Poss also apply a touch of threadlock.... If its all boxed in and you've applied nuts behind,, can you imagine refixing them if you need to change the mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Freeman Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 Cheers chaps. Looks like a trip to Gladstones for me then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I think Ken has bought up lots of batteries recently so there should be a few spare holes-even spacers in his drawers behind the counter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Freeman Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 Posted by Myron Beaumont on 23/07/2009 18:23:40:I think Ken has bought up lots of batteries recently so there should be a few spare holes-even spacers in his drawers behind the counter Myron, Im not interested in what Cameron keeps in his drawers. Especially not when mentioned in the same posting as holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 re captive nuts, I've taken to threaded inserts, saves the installation by braille usually needed for captive nuts. There's also no tendency for them to fall out at the least provocation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Freeman Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 Just had a trip out to the garage and stumbled over this project again. It is a case now of finish it or bin it.... I think i shall try to finish it... Have just spent 2 hours picking off the remaining Profilm. what a tedious task that is. Anyway, sat here staring at it and have got an unnatural urge to try and glass the fuselage. Too cold for epoxy at this time of year and spilling that in the house would leave me looking for lodgings. Question 1... does Poly-C smell as it cures???? Question 2 can it be applied to glass over open structures without sagging? (open being the holes inserted into the fuselage sides earlier in the thread? Or are there any better suggestions.. Thanks in advance, AndyEdited By Andy Freeman on 13/01/2010 22:15:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 andy-why not just film over the existing bit's of the previous film with a darker colour...glass will be a bit of a labour of love...it was a good plan for that model.........(what -plan)................. ken anderson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanker . Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Dude. Put the glass on the inside. I expect that you have seen the YAK re build HERE but if not it may help. I would stick (ha ha) to epoxy. You can heat the workshop while it cures. Or do the job there and when all is drip free bring it indoors to a specially prepared (and agreed) reception area that is warm and dry. Go well and keep it up. Yours does look a little simpler than mine! Well worth fixing em I say. F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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