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Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz


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I recently bought a 6ex via the USA which has a Sanyo 600mAh nicad installed in the Tx. This starts life at 11.1V at end of charge, the usual 10.4V by the time I get to the field. Fine, but after a 15 min. flight it is down to 9.7V. 30 mins. later, when left switched on, it is down to 9.5V which has been checked with a calibrated digital meter. The the battery has been checked for performance on a cycler, and is up to scratch. I have not as yet measured the current drain but would be interested to hear from other users of this Tx.
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I too have the set .But it has a 700mah Tx I have re cycled it (my way with a small 12V bulb where i can access connections to check volts & amps under a 360 ma load from the screw type bulb ( yes you might have trouble finding one this century !)
I have just checked the read out on the Tx after being fully charged 2 weeks ago & it's blinking on 10.1 V. BUT if I leave it switched on after the re-charge it lasts an amazing 2 hrs 20 mins .I keep graphs of time versus voltage on this load so I can keep on the lookout for any change in duration .QUESTION Does the Tx use more power when being "twiddled" than when just allowed to run down on it's own .We know obviously that Rx batts do as they power servos .I suppose the answer is to buy some Nih replacements ,& another charger & etc etc -----etc .Off we go to spend more money Eh !?(again)I must cut down on eating on a daily basis & other luxuries
Grumpy Myron
Just realised I havn't helped with your enquiry much have I ?
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Thanks for the responses. Think I will fit a 2400 pack for peace of mind. Flew it in an i/c aerobat for the first time today with no problems, but whist setting up in the shed the ailerons (flaperons) were uneven, with one servo intermittently delayed either going to position or returning to neutral by, I guess, 1/4 - 1/2 sec. Also the rudder rates seemed to have a mind of their own with low rate increasing the travel slightly no matter what travel value I entered. Restoring to flight mode cured the aileron problem, but not the rudder. Having previously used JR radio I am not familiar with the quirks of Futaba, but this situation seems rather strange to say the least.
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  • 1 month later...

My experience with LiPos is EXACTLY what inspired me to convert all my gear to them, as described in my article on here "LiPo for radio gear". I have around 50 different LiPo packs of varying sizes, in many different types of aircraft, as well as my 2 transmitters. I have 4 different chargers, and 2 balancers, and can honestly say I have never had a single incident or concern with any of it. I am cursed with a very disciplined and tidy mind, and I am sure that this is the main reason for my success with them. As for the advantages, well how about only having to charge the tr up on your birthday ?

Seriously, I fitted a 2500 m/a LiPo pack into my Spekky approx 3 months ago, I have logged over 11 hours flying on it, including around 1.5 hours yesterday, and the meter still reads 11.1V.

Considering your opening remarks about poor battery life in your tr, I find it very odd that you are so reticant about trying a Lipo pack !! These were just MADE FOR YOU.

It will be charged in 1 hour from "flat" ( whenever that may be ) and will then remain fully charged and ready for instant, spontaneous use, for months and months and months.... Whats more, it cost just £13 !!

The " strange " dual receiver set up you mention is not strange at all, and applies actually to only one of the current range of Spektum receivers, the others all being a single unit, and of considerably smaller size. I have had absolutely no problems in positioning or fixing any of them into any of my models, including one of these full size dual AR7000 rcvrs into a small 17 oz AUW ALFA Sabre EDF Jet.

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Myron. To whom is this addressed? I have NEVER called my spektrum system "top of the range" because it is not, it is merely classed ( and priced) as an entry level set. I thought you also had an entry level ( Futaba ) version of a 2.4Ghz set yourself..... ??

 Who is it exactly that is "knocking folks on low incomes" ? As a pensioner myself, I can assure you that I certainly have to watch the pennies ( 'er indoors is like an eagle with what I spend  , and being confined to her resting period has not changed that !!)

There...now I am grumpy too

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The reason that I would not at the moment put a lipo pack in a Tx is that out of the eight or so that I have bought, two have suffered from cell swelling, despite being very carefully used well within their C rating along with lipo guards and balancers. Don`t mind that happening on the bench but not in my tranny! These were what is considered top of the range packs too. Anyone know where I can buy single cells to repair the packs since I too am on a budget and cannot keep going out and spending 25 to 100 quid each time one requires replacing. Martin Mc.
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Hi Martin.... fair enough, you have been a little unlucky though. I frequently remove the back cover to just have a good "looksee", and ALWAYS remove any LiPo pack from my planes before charging...as I shall do when the time arrives to charge the tr

So far ( touches melamine covered wooden desk ) I have had more problem with dreaded black wire corrosion over the years, than LiPo swellings. Personally I worry more about the myriad of other things that can and DO go wrong with our equipment, than I ever do about LiPo swelling.

As I say....never had a single prob to date (  firmly GRASPS desk with BOTH hands )

  PS - I have purchased single cells from both Aurrora,

and also the E/A Co.

http://www.modellhaus.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Maverick_Power_Lithium_Polymer_Batteries.html

These are also good for smaller sizes...had a fair few from them

 http://www.indoorflyer.co.uk/index.asp?function=DISPLAYCAT&catid=44

HTH

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  • 3 months later...

Any suggestions where you can lipos for the Futaba 6EX 2.4, BRC dont have them and United Hobbies/Hobby City are not replying to emails.

Lipo size required:  112mm long, 50nn wide and 15mm deep

                            
 

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Just a note to Eric Bray; actually some paints can and do self combust.  Any paint using drying oils (such as linseed oil) will heat up during drying.  The usual problem is of paint rags left in a heap; the rags act as insulation to stop heat escaping, the centre of the heap heats up; the hotter it gets the faster the chemical reaction until finally the heap bursts into flame.  It's a well known phenomenon (though little to do with model aircraft).
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