Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Papa]

Well done! That was the most genuine smile of happiness I've ever seen. Richly deserved.

 

Jack, Toronto.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario,

 

Thank you for sharing your Lysander's  maiden flight with us all.

That truly is the icing on the cake for any builder, just wonderful.

But knowing how your son can handle a model I'm sure he will

not be happy until he has it in the air. 

 

If that is your Club's flying site you are a very lucky man indeed.

I am  with envy.......

 

Terry

 

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 03/05/2010 16:49:50

[rookie jim]

mario,

just watched your video on you tube.marvellous! and although its daunting to think thats what you have achieved compared to my efforts its also given me new impetus to get over my problems and complete the lizzie.

 

jim

[ron thornhill]

Hi all, I have followed this blog right from the start but always seemed to be a step or two ahead mainly because I did everything in the wrong order, but it has all gone together pretty well for my first build. My BIGGEST mistake was varnishing before doing the graphics that set me back a lot. I'm still pre A test which is a pain but am confident to fly my lizzy weather permitting. Like every one says this is brilliant blog and Terry and Mario have been inspirational. As Terry says, you have a great flying site Mario. It has taken three attempts to ad this posting ( it is easier to build a plain) hope it works this time.

Ron

[MThemadhatter]

Congrats on the Maiden Mario, You are making me spend more time in my "work shop" and less out in the sun flying lol.

 

I have not got much done recently but I have finished off on of the wings and am moving on to doing the ailerons and flaps.

 

Out of interest what prop did you have on her ?

[Supermario]

Hy guys

First of all I wich to thank all yours kind words.

Second I sincerily hope to see a smile like mine on your face when you got yours Lizzys in the air.

Max - the prop I use is a three blade 11x7 Master Airscrew

 

Now for those of you that aren't yet at finishing stage and want to not spent much time with it, I'll post images of my instrument panel based on the pictures that Papa send.

 

The first draw I printed in acetat for printers, to simulate the glass of the instruments.

 

Then I printed this draw in a good quality paper

 

And finnaly join the two prints together the acetat in front and the other in the back

and that gives a very good result.

 

And it seems that there are glass in front of instruments.

Later i'll post a picture of my Lizzies canopy finished and you will see the effect.

Kind regards to all

Mário

 

PS If the quality of copying this images is not good you can message me and I'll send a file in another format with a good resolution,

Edited By Supermario on 03/05/2010 21:24:06

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks Mario

 

I started fitting my servo hatches in the wing today and discovered very quickly that HS82mg's are a very tight fit in the space between the ribs. So I am going to have to go for some of those Tower pro servos. I am glad I had only bought the servo for the throttle !

[rookie jim]

terry,

i have i think managed to sort out one of the inner panels.of course i have realised that both le and te  are wedge shaped. that is they are deeper at one end and narrower at the other.

 

as regards the sanding block. i couldnt getv a square length of brass tube  but i did manage to get a square u shaped aluminium one. the inside is about 6mm and the overall width 8mm. i found that i can cut a strip of sandpaperwide enough to go round the tube, tuck it inside the u shape and i could then wedge it with a strip of balsa stringer. seems to worh ok for the smaller surfaces.

 

not sure if i have explained it very well.

 

 

jim

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

Your sanding block is far too narrow don't use it . I didn't mention

anything about  the use of any metal section, but that of wood. 

A good flat surface is required.

I said  a length of batten, about 12"  of 2"x1"   (5cmX 2.5cmX 15cm)

and use double sided carpet tape and a good quality sand paper. 

 

Jim I'm sorry, but those measurements you gave me when

 temporary joining the panels with their carbon rods were not good.

If the outer panels were joined without correction, the wing dihedral

will be halved, also without correction and include  the required

 40mm packer under W20 would create a gull wing.

 

We must have those tubes in both wing panels to their correct alignment.

The cause was W1-3 were slightly out of alignment when glued, their ,

correction is essential, and  it's only a matter of careful hole sanding.

 

This little jig should help by making a block using 3mm sheet.

Cut 3 pieces 140mm X 60mm and glue together making a 9mm thick block.

With a carpenters square draw a line 30mm from one end, and a second

 line 74mm apart. Measure to make sure they are absolutely parallel, then

mark their centres (30mm)

 

This 74mm should be the distance between your carbon rods.

Inboard of these lines  glue two 60mm pieces of 6mm strip, these

when dry will be used to clamp the C/rods.

Now mark the centres of the C/rods

 

Pin or clamp the made block firmly to the centre of your building board.

now clamp the C/rods lining up all centre marks, and measure making sure

they are parallel in plan form, and level in elevation.

Slide on the brass tubes, but we will correct one panel at a time.

 

Glue to the lower spar at W9  a temporary 6mm packer, now lay the wing

 panel down and the only points of contact will be the 6mm packer and W1,

slide carefully the panel onto the brass tubes, any restriction stop, take note

and sand the hole,( a ballpoint pen, double sided tap and Med grade

 sand paper make a good rounded sander)

Do this over and over untill it slide home perfectly, do the same with the

other wing panel.

 

This might sound laborious, but it is essential to get this right or all

your work could be wasted.

 

 Check your plan and look at the wing X section, this is what we are

aiming for.

 

Cheers  Terry

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 04/05/2010 10:39:21

[ron thornhill]

Hi Mario

what effect does a three bladed prop have on a 52 four stroke's performance compared to a two blade prop, it certainly looks good.

 

Ron

[Geoff Daunt]

Hi all,

First congratulations Mario on your super build and maiden flight........just sorry l cannot watch it on U-Tube....l only have a land line so not possible to watch a video.

Been busy with other matters for the past few weeks but now back to some building and starting on the wings.....and met my first question.!!

I have packed up the bottom spar for the inner wing and trial fitted W1-W9.

It is easy to move each rib 1/2 mm from flat on the board.

Previous builds have been flat bottom sections so not a problem...but l can see this is not flat bottom.

I can also see the the hieght increases from W1 to W9 at the leading edge from the building board.

Do l keep the bottom trailing edge of W1-W9 all at the same level....... ie. packed up by say 2mm all along the bottom trailing edge ...or should this also increase in height from W1-W9.

Any tips guys so l can get the rib angles set properly. Many thanks.

Geoff.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Geoff.

Your spars have to recess into the ribs by 2.4mm to allow for the sheeting, so you must use packers more that 2.4mm. If you have some 5mm or 6mm squ strip use that, and put the same under the ribs TE , but  advise cover with sellotap or cling film first. In the trial fitting of your ribs, check  with a straight edge along the tops and look for any proud ribs and sand.

TW                                                

                                       ..

 

[Alan Dorrell]

   Hi Terry

 

It would be marvellous for us future builders if an index could be devised. The latest postings by you and Geoff show how similar problems keep coming up and I know I will want all the help I can find from this blog when I come to start my Lizzie.

 

I am off to Corfu at the crack of dawn tomorrow, Friday, and hope to return as a reasonably accomplished flyer.  Meanwhile I have been filling in a bit of time building the wings of my Puss Moth. Now they have varying tapers and thicknesses and, while I cut out my ribs as accurately as possible,  I have have had to make a lot of adjustments to depths of slots and other alterations to them to get them to fit together nicely. I am almost frightened at the thought of attempting the wings of the Lizzie.

 

Mario, it is wonderful to see your Lizzie flying. Maravillosa !!!!  What an incentive to all us others you are !!

 

Cheers. Alan.

[Geoff Daunt]

Hi Terry,

Many thanks for the prompt response.

Yes l have some spare sq. strip and will now start the wing following your excellent tip.

Always easy when you know the answer.!!

Best regards,  Geoff.

[Geoff Daunt]

Hi Terry,

Sorry to be a pain....but with 4mm sq under the bottom spar and the same at the trailing edge it just looks wrong.....it seems too low at the back.

I have tried to draw some horizontal lines on the plan accros the rib sections and if l am reading it right the rear of the rib seems to be about 2/3 mm high from the bottom of the central spar.

I have tried a piece of 6mm sq at the rear to rest the trailing edge of the rib on and to my eye, this looks about right..

I may be completely wrong but would value your further view before l start and glue.

Many thanks,   geoff.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Geoff,

 

No problem.

 

All you are doing is building this wing panel flat, you can use 6mm squ at the TE

and the finished  panel will still be flat . The 4mm  under the spar was allowing

the ribs to sit correctly on the spar, and 4mm at the TE is just 

to keep the ribs clear of your the building board.  

 

To build the wing as stated in the magazine I'm sorry to say  is wrong.

 

Terry

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Contiued from the above thread

 

Hi Geoff,

 

Have you looked at  the Tony Nijhuis build of the Lysander, if you

 haven't just       Google  'Tony Nijhuis Designs'  then click

'What's New'

At the bottom of the list is Westland Lysander.

It gives a comprehensive photographic guide to the build. 

 

The panel you are about to build is shown, but for some reason

the spar packers are faded and no mention is made on the plan

or in the magazine of their size.

 

Over the years I have built a countless number of wings for myself

and commissioned builds, and have developed my own method

of building.

 For this reason I never place a thread of my build, because

others had purchased the wood packs, and were building as instructed

in the magazine.

 

Mario's threads and photographic contribution to this blog  has been

exceedingly helpful to all. I just help on common issues as they arise.

 

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Doug,

I have just found you thread on the SC52  petrol conversion

When you placed that thread I was in the middle of changing my

 broadband server, and whilst running through the blog trying to

make some form of blog index I came apon it.

 

How did the conversion go? as it sounds very interesting.

 

Terry

[rookie jim]

Hi terry,

now made the jig and starting the lining up process but just wanted to check something. the 6mm packer is on w9 . however to get w1 onto the brass tubes i need to lift it slightly.

 

now i have staretd to make the adjustments to the holes and have done w1 and w2 but this has resulted in larger holes and as a result there is movementas the panel slides onto the brass tubes. unless i jiggle the panel the holes can be miles out but can also be nearly right.

 

is this what you would expect? do i need to do something else to get it lined up.

 

jim

Edited By rookie jim on 09/05/2010 23:45:20

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

This proves the ribs were slightly out of alignment when glued,

 and is why you only had half of the required dihedral when

 measured at W9.

 

Complete the panel even though you have enlarged the holes,

then do the same with the second panel.

The oversize holes  can be rectified later.

 

Once both panels are located on the tube make sure W1 and

the W9 packer is sitting flat on your board. Use a 1m straight edge,

against the flap hinge spar,and clamp, this aligns both panels

( My straight edge is a 1m length of 25mm aluminium angle purchased

from Homebase, it makes a very handy piece of kit) 

Now check your tubes measurerments at W3 to the ali angle

are exact.

 

When completed Jim, we will rectify the enlaged holes.

 

Terry  

 

[Supermario]

Hi guys

While you continue with your buildings, for me it is time of usufruct of the pleasure to fly the Lizzie. The most recent picture taken off during the meeting in Spain where already it appears amoung the others participants.

 

 

 

And, as I told in earlier posts here are the pictures of the way the instrument panel
stay in my method.

With canopy

and you can see that the printing acetat make his job.

 

This one specially for Max, the way I put the receiver

using a little piece of ply screw to the former and some belcro and the acess by the hatch.

 

And for finishing the power plant of my Lizzie with those fuel tubes, filters and valves but working perfectly

 

And that's all

Regards

Mário

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Looking good!

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario,

 

I like the cockpit detail, and I see the pilot is a  Flight Sergeant,

 I will have to make make his twin brother the same rank.

 

I WAS hoping to maiden my Lizzy last Saturday, then take it to

Old Warden on the  Sunday , but that NE wind was just a little

 too cold for my liking.

These days I fuction much better with a little warmth in the sun.

[ron thornhill]

Hi all

my Lizzy had it's maiden flight today and suprisingly flew like a dream. Dead chuft for my first build. I have a video but it's too fuzzy, also it took me ages to work out how get this picture on here. Happy flying every one.

Ron

[Tim Mackey]

She looks great Ron - well done

PICTURES