Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[MThemadhatter]

That's very kind of you Jim but I should have no trouble getting hold of the wing kit.

 

The thing I am having trouble with is the Carbon rod and the 3mm birch ply for the strut supports. My LHS have ordered both from a well known supplier, the rod did not turn up and the ply they sent was neither light or birch ply and not suitable for the job. You can get both on-line but the postage is extortionate. For example the birch ply is £1.10 on SLEC but postage is £10 !!!

[Papa]

Hi Rookie Jim, I was fed up with thin CA. It seemed no matter what I did it poured out every where. I solved this by putting a few drops in the bottom of a small plastic container (ex fruit cup from my grandkids). I used a bamboo skewer sharpened to a point. I dipped it in the CA and got a small drop that worked perfectly. In addition I could reach difficult places easily.

 

Jack

Toronto.

[Terry Whiting 1]

HI Guys,

 

You are learning..

I think the sheeting problems you are experiencing is not that of the glue,

but that of wood selection, but I must admid the carbon residue left from

laser cutting does not help .

 

Whenever buying a wood pack I know you are limited, but before using any

wood ckeck it's grade, that goes for both, strip and sheeting.

.

Years back manufactures graded the end grain with three colours which

which denoted it's grade, soft, med, or hard, a pity it was discontinued.

 

If you have to moisten do not use immediately, let the wood lay for

10 minutes,before using, as a further moistening may be necessary.

 

I personally only use PVA and have no trouble, but then I have an

abundence of wood for my selection, and  my wing build is that of

1.5mm,.which makes hell of a difference.

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 07/04/2010 07:40:45

[Supermario]

Hi guys

Finnaly I have a trial fit for the wings

I glued the aluminium tubes in F4 and F5 formers and I'm satisfied with the result.

Make the adjustments is quite dificult, taking measures from the stab to the wing, verifying levels and position took me a lot of time.

But my Lizzie begin to appear like a plane not just a few separated pieces.

You may notice that I do the fuse cover by parts.

After I saw Papa pictures and discover so many join lines and panel lines in the real one.I think that there's no problem in put some joints in the model, and make much more easier the covering work

Mário

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Mario,

 

Yes that is the easiest way of covering this fuselage. I just had to take

extra care in shrinking the covering due to the fact my stringers are just

2mm X 6mm, slow work but but pleased with the final effect.

 

My undercarriage is now finished, and for the landing lights I use high

intensity LED and two x 3V  Lithium  button cells, and Wow, they show

up in bright sunlight.

 

Flaps and ailerons are now pin hinged with Kavan hinges.Have yet to

fit my aileron and flap outlet sockets.

The sockets I mounted in 1.5mm birch ply, shaped to fit either side of

 F4 & 5 in such a way that they were opposite the plug exit holes of the

wings. The idea worked, but the ply failed after two trial pug in attempts.

I have now aquired some 1.5mm fibre glass sheet. 

 

Have just started  aluminium cutting for the wing struts. The aluninium

ends have been dovetailed into the ply inner core, easy to do with a file,

reason being I did not like the idea of the metal ends being just

sandwiched between balsa outer skins.   

 

Terry

 

[Supermario]

Hi Terry

When I send you the U/C I send also the laser cut aluminiun struts ends....don't you have them? They were cut in 1,5mm alu and they are been made following the plan.

If you missed them I think I still have four.

Mário

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Mario,

I must be going senile in my old age my friend.   I have found them.

 I taped them in their  plastic envelope  to the steel undercarriage,

 and put it away for  safety,  so safe I forgot about them.

I have only just started  cutting, now I do not have to  you are a pal

 

Terry

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

You didn't send me any of them did you? I think my mum has thrown the box away :s didn't see any in there

 

what do you guys think of this?

 CNC :P

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

As I hadn't read anything more about your wing other than a successful panel parting operation, I wonderd if you had returned to your wing build again.?

 

Terry

[rookie jim]

Terry,

unfortunately work has got in the way. However i decided to leave the wings until this weekend and decided to finish sheeting the tail. Also i had a minor piece out of one of the spars which i have glued back but i want it to be fully set.

 

 

I have now completed the main sheeting just have to do the bit between the stringers although i could leave that. I managed to move aileron horn and have inserted the tubes etc for the push push system for rudder and i am using a snake for elevator.

 

I am planning on starting the wings tomorrow but first of all i need to read your postings on locking in the washout and getting the dihedral correct .  I want to understand it before i go too far.

 

I assume that i sand the le and te level to the ribs before i do any sheeting or locking in washout.

 

All

as promised here are some pictures of the tail of my lizzie . The one area i am still debating is whether or not to cover the tail block, you know the bit that looks like the nose of a probospus minkey (think the spelling is something like this!). my inclination is to cover before gluing as it will be very hard to cover around the elevators.

 

i managed to get 3 pictures uploaded although they may come out a bit on the dark side. still it will hide the errors a bit.

 

so here are pictures. i am going to paint horns matt black.

 

 

 

Jim

Edited By rookie jim on 09/04/2010 20:38:46

[MThemadhatter]

That's all looking good guys Hope fully I shall get onto putting the first wing together this weekend. I have been looking at the plan and my idea is to get the wing tubes level and then chock up the wing so the mid point and tip have are the same hieght off the building board as on the front view of the plan so that the dihedral is correct. 

 

That if I don't get to distracted doing this

 

After all there is this strange yellow orb in the sky at the moment.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim

Thats coming on just fine, considering this is your first build, you have done exceptionally well.   

 I thought I would run though end panel washout again, save you searching.

 

With your skeletal panels sand inner LE level with the ribs.

Now cut your sheeting.

This wants to be cut 1.5mm (1/16") oversize widthwise allowing for rib

contour. The outer panel spans W20 - W10, but you must cut top and bottom 

sheets  long enough to span from W20 to W9. This is to allow for joining 

both panels.  Don't forget MED grade sheet of flexible quality.

 

I advise you cut a forward half bib of a W9  ( mainspar to LE) and glue it

to W9. This gives a double width rib giving good gluing support for both

outer and inner panel sheeting, otherwise when joining both panels

together the sheets would share one rib, which is not a good idea.

 

This is method nubber 2

You are now ready for sheeting......Glue (CA or PVA) both upper and

lower sheets to their mainspars only,   clamp and let dry,

 

While drying sort out 6  2.4mm packers and one packer of 5mm and

one of  10mm.

 

The gluing of both panels can be done together, but as it's your first

attempt I suggest one at a time.

 

The ribs top, and top of inner LE  add your glue, but  do not pin .

 Now place the panel on your board with 2.4mm packers under the

 mainspar, the 5mm packer under the TE of W20, and the 10mm packer

 under the TE of W10.

As the panel was built you will need weights. Do not rely on pinning down.

Place some scrap sheeting on your ribs and place weights on the

panel to hold down firmly on all packers , NOW pin  sheeting to  the glued

ribs and LE,  Let this thoroughly dry.

Remove weights and lift from the board, wipe sheeting with a 'tack cloth'

and add lengths of masking tape long enough  to go right round the sheeting

( the masking tap I use is Homebase blue, strong with good adhesion)

Now glue all rib bottoms and LE, place back on your packers, add weights

and fix lower sheet in place with the  M-tape,again let dry.

 While  still weighted down remove any tape that might be in the way

 and add spar webs. When this is dry, it has locked the  washout in.

If there's anything you are not sure of PM me,

 

With two boards you  can work on them alternately.

 

Jim, let me know when you are ready I will give you a runthrough  of  

panel joining if you so wish.

 

Terry   

      

 

[rookie jim]

terry,

thanks for running through the process again. its very detailed and just what i needed. i will let you know how i get on.

 

jim

[Hugh P]

Mario

I like your methods very much, you have saved me a lot of thinking.

 

Terry

I have bent up a new U/C using the aneal method, when the temp is right, it is so easy. Thank you.

 

All

What glue is best for Balsa to ABS & any ideas on what type of glue/sealant to use for Ali/Balsa. I doubt if Marios product is available in the UK.

 

This is a fantastic forum, thank you all.

HughP

[MThemadhatter]

Hugh

 

I find that for mixed material joints the best glue for strengh is epoxy, just remember to ruff up the ALI/ABS to get a stronger joint. With balsa if you warm up the epoxy a little it can soak into the wood, I would use 30min epoxy.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Hugh,

 

Theres a a product I think equal to Mario's, I use it, it's

 'Evostik Serious Stuff' priced around £7 a cartridge. I have use it on

 blue foame and balsa to Ali, and I can thoroughly recommend it.

 If need be, it takes paint

 

Balsa to ABS, 

 ZAP-Gap  medium CA works perfectly,

also on ABS to ABS, infact I found it better than the recommended ABS glue.

 

Terry

 

   

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 11/04/2010 11:50:30

[Doug Ireland]

Hi Guys, I need a bit of advice on bending aluminium sheet.

 

I have cut out the shape of the undercarriage for the Lysander from 3mm sheet and have annealed it. My question is would the bending process be enough to "work-harden" the material or will the finished U/C need to be tempered?

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Dough

 

The bending will slightly work harden, but it is best to do your bending once

annealed, leave it too long it might want reannealing.

 

Don't try to tempering, as the aluninium returns to it's original state naturally.

 

  

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 11/04/2010 14:52:46

[Supermario]

Hi guys

With a good good wheather here in Portugal the Saturday was for fliyng.

But still find some time to continue the works in my Lizzie.

The problem is I put my Lizzie in the list of a scale meeting at Leon - Spain that will be at 8 and 9 May and now I have no turning back.

I finnaly decided to do the front sheeting and decided to add a hatch to place the battery and the voltage regulator.

As you see in the picture I will use a lipo placed in one side with direct acess without removing the canopy.

Trial fit to the sistem linkage for airelons and flaps and decided to work with a threaded wire of 2mm with quick link in aileron/flap horn and z bend in servo arm.

The days are running and I have to work fast and well.

Mário

[MThemadhatter]

I have made some progress today and glued together my first set of wing panels, no photos unfortunately but this was my method.

 

I cut out 3 packing blocks to go onto the plan to set the dihedral. A 40mm under w20 , 10mm under W10 and 6mm under W8. This matches the dihedral shown in the front view plan. I then glued the to dihedral braces onto the inner panel and glued in W9. I then pinned the inner panel down with packer. I then spent about  30 mins dry fitting and adjusting everything so the the outer panel sat on the jig/packers properly and everything lined up . At this point I removed a little to much off one of the spa's. Once I was happy that I could get it all lined up I mixed up some more epoxy and glued pinned and clamped everything together, pinning the outer panel to the packers and left for an hour. And joy of joy a wing with the correct dihedral and everything lined up came off the board. I did have to do a bit of gap filling with the epoxy on one of the spa joins. When I build the other wing I will cut the spa a little over length to leave some room for adjustment.

 

I have kept the packers along with the washout guide for the other wing, and I will get some pictures of it this time.

 

I have a question about the wing servo mounts. I am going to use some 3mm light ply to make some mounts that screw onto rails recessed into the ribs. Question is which wood, would be best for this ?

 

[MThemadhatter]

Mario

 

I like what you have done with your access hatch there. It solves the problem of how to regcharge a lipo RX battery very nicely. I am still scratching my head about where to put the RX so you can get at it without dismantling the plane

[Supermario]

Hi Max

I think I gonna place the RX under the servos using the under hatch.

I'll go on 2.4 and the RX is litlle. After I adjust the servos throttle, elevator and rudder and i'll do

something in balsa to secure the RX. I'll put extensions directly to ailerons and flaps and I just need to make the conections without remove the canopy.

In this moment I finish to put the cables to the landing lights.

I buy from Turnigy a switch that work with one radio channel for the lights that will be place with the RX swicth in the side of fuel tank. The RX switch will be acessable from the side hatch.

This is my ideas about radio instalation but during the building maybe I have to change something, I hope not.

Mário

 

[Doug Ireland]

Posted by Terry Whiting 1 on 11/04/2010 14:52:11:

Dough

 

The bending will slightly work harden, but it is best to do your bending once

annealed, leave it too long it might want reannealing.

 

Don't try to tempering, as the aluninium returns to it's original state naturally.

 

  

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 11/04/2010 14:52:46

 Thanks Terry

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario,

 

Very neat hatch and installation. ......The 8-9th of May is not far away.

Hope you take some pictures of the com.

 

 

Max,

 

 My aileron and flap servos are side mounted on 1.5mm birch ply hatches.

 Hardpoints  are glue to the ribs for screw securing hatch/servo.

 It's a  method I use on all my models. Makes life easier for any

 adjustments required.  

 

[Supermario]

Hi

 

Max

At page 10 of this threadh (step by step) you got pictures of my method of doing the servo mounts in the wings.

All this because I don't like very much the servo showing in the panel, but I agree that's the easier way.

About wood I just use the obechi stringers that came with the CNC pack.

 

Terry

Thank you for your support

 

Regards

Mário