Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jim,

 

I would hate to say all was well with that horn then the damn thing pulled out.

 I personally  would not be happy knowing the screws were only S-glued.

 

 

[rookie jim]

Terry,

thanks for your quick reply. you have confirmed my suspicion. I will have to get some longer screws.

 

 hope i can get the horn off without too much damage. i suppose i could cut it back to the base and just use the other elevator.

 

Jim

Edited By rookie jim on 24/03/2010 22:41:03

Edited By rookie jim on 24/03/2010 22:55:41

[Papa]

You could try debonding the thin CA with  Acetone.   Cheap nail polish remover usually has acetone. Just soak the CA for about 10 to 15 minutes and grip the head of the bolt in a small vice grips. gently work it back and forth while pulling on it and it should come out clean. It will be an exercise in patience or learning to curb impatience. Good luck, we've all done the same thing at some time or another.

 

Jack, 

Toronto.

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jim,

 

Try Jack's method.  If no joy, just cut off the long piece of the horn leaving the flat bolted piece, and reposition either along side the old one or the other side as you suggested.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 25/03/2010 07:12:46

[Terry Whiting 1]

JIm,

 

Just thought,as you have covered the tail surfaces, and as I have never used Acetone I do not know if it will have any effect on the covering's adhesive,   before using  try it on some screap covering. 

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Received the CNC undercarriage today!!! looks very nice, setting to work making some stub axles, wish I had a lathe!

[Geoff Daunt]

Peter.

How do you intend cutting the thread.?

You can buy a set of bolt-on-stub axle shafts from any good model shop.

I have a set which l bought on line from Sussex Models.(l use them a lot for my gear and find them very helpfull and they will post to Spain for me.)

Mine are from Great Planes and are 1-1/4 x 5/32" They are a perfect fit for those 3 1/2 " wheels.....cost was 3.99 sterling. It will certainly save you a lot of timeand effort....just an option for you to consider.

Geoff.

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Well I heated it up over the hob and let it cool down naturally to soften it up, but then I decided to just use a screw

[Terry Whiting 1]

Peter am I rceiving you correctly, you are using a screw ......for what,  an axle???

 

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

yes why?

Just taken the starter cone of the broken starter and put it in my dad's drill :P seems to work! 

[MThemadhatter]

Interesting, I to got my UC today (thank's again Mario) and have added these Axle to an order of bits I am getting from Giant Cod. I shall set to installing it all tomorrow.

[rookie jim]

hi all,

got the elevator horn off and the screw heads broke off trying to see if i could unscrew them

. as the remaing part of the screw was flush with the covering i filed them down a fraction and left them in. a dab of matt black humbrol hides them quite well.

 

have put on new horn a bit further back where the elevator is thinner but still through the blocks. couldnt get any longer screws.

 

think i may get away with it.

 

now to sheet rear  and inner wings and fix tail wheel and do outer wings

 

slowly does it.

 

jim.

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

trying to make the undercarriage hatch stay on by magnets, but it doesn't seem to be working :s

 

I have some nylon M3 bolts and blind nuts then having the hatch on magnets means if the U/C collapses it flicks the hatch off with minimal damage I hope!

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

From what you said with the heads snapping off, the horn WAS quite secure after all.

In fitting the horn a little rearward of the hinge line will only make a  marginal difference

to the throws.

 

I fitted the spats to the undercarriage. I did state earlier in this topic I was going to try

balsa  packers and auto double sided trim tape, but after a trial I found the  tapes adhesive too vicious, what ever it touched it STUCK.

I'm pleased I didn't use it as I was not happy with my first attempt and to remove would have been inpossible.

 

I finally used blue foam and Evostik Serious Stuff. The blue foam I was given is 25mm thick, from this cut a 15mm wide strip and the shaped it into   formers which slid  easily  

in the spat leg.

 I found I only needed one small flat packer just above the wheel arch and shaped 15mm formers just where the wing strut is mounted. After careful measurerments taken it was easy finding the predrilled hole in the aluminium leg.

As Mario and I both made  removable panels in the spat for wheel fixing, it did enable

the spat to be fabricated before fitting to the aluminium leg,

 then it was easy bolting in the axle.

 

The undercarriage now is a complete working unit.

The landing lights are fitted and working and carries 6V Lithium   2 X 3V

button cells, and a 3g servo powered micro switch, it added just 6g.  

Just a matter of screw bolting home the carriage  and plug the switch lead

 into the flap extention lead which was wired before covering,

and the hatch covers all.

 

I could find on any sites  slim line wheels, so I reworked

Flair 3.5" (89mm) vintage wheels as this was the tyre size I was after.

In the lathe I turned off the domed spoke side, and glued in a made

up disc of heavy duty ABS.

As they say, Given the will there is always a way.

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 26/03/2010 07:38:13

[rookie jim]

Terry,

yes the horn was well secure BUT I only found out when trying to remove. I would not have wanted to risk it anyway so its a good job you advised caution.

 

must admit i had forgotten all about lining up with the hinge line. do it with artf because they tell you. When i got your posting i checked the rudder horns and they too are back from the hinge line too. never thought. i attached them by using a template from the plan.

 

debating whether to try and move them closer or leave them. they are about 4mm behind hinge line. the rudder moves very freely.

 

This model is proving quite a learning curve but i am really enjoying doing it. i cant wait to finish it so i am ready to start the next winter projectround  about November so i can make use of all i have learnt. Hope it flies!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Regards to all you other builders, there are lots of good postings with plenty of information coming across which i will be able to make use of in due course.

Jim

 

[MThemadhatter]

The rear section is still a way off for me, which I am glad of a the moment lol. I finished sheeting the front of the fuse today. I also fitted the UC that Mario sent me and have made a hatch to go over it. This makes removing it a simple job and hopefully make the covering easier. 

 

I will leave the UC on for now as it protects the model whilst I  work with it. Just waiting for it stop raining so I can go outside and sand down the sheet joins.

 

On to the tail next and a question, what glue did you guys use to stick together the fin pieces ? I have CA, yellow glue and epoxy to choose from

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT,

Your Lysander is coming on really well,and made a nice job of your hatches, as for glue,  I only use Evostik  PVA.

 

Jim,

 

4 mm  behing the hinge line will only give a small differential, but ideally

 they should be on the hinge line.

How is the wing coming on, I must say  it's not the easiest of wings for a first build.

Did you use packers under you main spars? 

 

Remember,  "if in doubt just give a shout"

 

Terry .

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 26/03/2010 20:40:04

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks Terry

 

I have just noticed something though, I have just realised that what I thought was all 3mm balsa is actually 2.7mm and 3.2mm and I have used the 2.7mm stuff to sheet the front of the fuse I think it was supposed to be the 3.2mm DOH !!

 

I sure it wont make a difference though, only realised because he talks about sheeting the rear section with  "2.5mm" balsa. Of course all the sizes are imperial

Edited By MThemadhatter on 26/03/2010 21:23:59

[Supermario]

Hi guys

Very happy to notice that everyone of you have a lot of work

but the Lizzie's are coming to life.

As I expected the struts give me a lot of work, sanding all the time untill

the final shape.

But the final result is quite good.

The struts are very strong but also very flexible.

I give already a primer and now just need to paint.

Max

Very good your work.

Jim

I aprecciate your work because this Lizzie building is definitively not easy.

Terry

Always your friendly advice come in the precise time.

For me your are the chief leader of this team.

Regards

Mário

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Mario,

Very nice looking struts.    I'm now ready to make mine. I decided to cover them with aluminium self adhesive tape to simulate metal sheeting prior  to painting.

On the fullsize it's aluminium skin is an aerodynamic covering over the inner

working strut.

My wings are now covered, and the flaps and  ailerons are ready, but those I will fit last of all..

 

 

MT,

 Shouldn't worry about the wrong size sheeting, I only used  2mm. The only 3mm was used as planking under the tailplane, 3mm allowed for shaping.

 

 My wing, fin and tailplane is all from 1.5mm sheet,  stringers are  2mm X 6mm.

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 27/03/2010 07:19:29

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

actually, I wont bother with the nylon nuts and just use proper M3 screws. And I'll do the hatch similar to how you did it.

Edited By Peter 'Servo Scrounger' Savage on 27/03/2010 10:38:10

[rookie jim]

MT,

i had the same problem with the stringers they seemed thicker too and probably imperial and like you i was confused with sheet thickness. none seemed to be the correct one - either too thin or too thick by a little bit.

 

Terry

 

I will leave the elevator horn where it is for now but if i can get some longer horn screws i will refit on other side. the RHS elevator will look like a lizzie just back from France having evaded flak if i am not careful. still the battle worn look may give it some character.

 

I did buy a 2mm threaded rod and wondered about epoxy a nut to one end and somehow screwing the other nut on but i am not sure. the other option is to cut away the covering and fit the horn directly recessed onto the balsa . Still i may go to another model shop on wednesday and see if they have anything.

 

 

I am now fitting the 3mm ply for the tail wheel and packing balsa between this and stabiliser.

 

as for wings i didnt get on too well with packing under the main spar. i couldnt keep it rigid enough. one problem is i think the board is too hard so i couldnt lock it down with t pins. the board was one of those for model railway layouts and the LMS said it would be ideal asa building board. i paid £15 quid for it. i must have rookie stamped on my forehead. in the end i followed the instructions in the plans and magazine so i hope it turns out OK.

 

I agree with you and mario they are not easy wings to build.

 

Mario

Your spats are really something special. Very impressed. i know you said previously that you got the CNC kit. I canr believe your spats have come from the ones supplied.

 

 

regrds to you all

 

Jim

 

 

 

 

[MThemadhatter]

Jim

 

I nearly bought a great planes building board for £30 until my club mates sent  me to B & Q for a sheet of plaster board. The stuff to use is the "handiboard" 1220x600mm for the princely sum of £3. Its very nearly perfectly flat and you can just chuck it away at the end of the build. of course the surface you put it onto should be flat.

[MThemadhatter]

I have started work on the tail fins. One tool I got which is very useful is this slec rib holder, makes getting the ribs lined up nice and easy

 

  Lots of fun with the razor plane getting the inner leading edge and trailing edge to shape.

Finished and ready for sheeting

 

 Sheeted and I have started to build the elevators.

 

Now I have a chicken and the egg question here. Do you guys think its better to cut the triangle fillets as on the plan then shape the balsa LE of the elevator. Or pinning the elevator halves in position then shaping the triagle fillets to match. I was wondering if this would make it harder to shape the leading edge to a point (trying to think of a clearer way to phrase that)

 

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT,

No holding back with you pal  , it looks as though we have an assembly line going here.

Keep the good work up. 

 

 

Jim,

 

Without packers under the wing main spar how did you manage to seat the ribs, as the spar is recessed into the rib allowing for the lower sheeting to finish flush with the rib.

 

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 28/03/2010 10:53:43