TopGun A-10 Tankbuster

[Alan B]

Thanks Mark  I will also keep the tip in mind.

 

Hi Shades - its a shame you have been having problems   If the u/c servos are not set up properly they will quite easily burn out.  Just be aware that if you are replacing the u/c servos that one of the wing u/c servos is reversed! to get them both going in the same direction

 

If you have your own decent TX then you should be able to put one servo on another channel other than the gear and mix the channels to get everything going the same direction.

 

Othewise you will have to buy one reversed servo. Somebody else can help you out here as I'm not sure - but I think you can either open up the servo and reverse the wiring or you can get a reversing connection to go inbetween the servo and the RX.

 

Keep persevering - it will be worth it in the end!

 

Al

[Mark Jones]

Hi i have also replaced the servo in the wing that goes the normal way! as and when i need to do the other i just get a metal geared servo and buy a servo reversing 'y' lead, they work a treat ive used a few.

 

Hi shades im sorry about your problems   keep on with it because it really is an ace plane to fly im sure you will love it, i goes out with me to the strip every time i go-but i dont fly it in strong cross winds, only have two choices of take off direction as we fly from an old airfield.  good look and have fun 

[shades]

Thanks for your replies Alan & Mark,

 

I spent ages trying to get all three retract servo throws correct, but the centering is so bad that one of them always buzzes. The one that failed lost drive internally. When I opened it up I found the gears weren't even inline with each other. I fixed it for a while but then it seized completely. I quickly decided to replace them with HS65 MGs. It was then I discovered the reversing problem. I am currently waiting for a Turnigy servo regulator/reverser. This has the advantage of slowing the servo action down as well as being able to reverse one of them.

 

I was interested to note that you had queezed in a 3000mAh lipo. The supplied 2200 20c is weedy to say the least, for a twin EDF. On the only flight I managed it lasted barely 3 minutes, but that probably wasn't helped by the problems I mentioned in my previous post. Even so, with the current being drawn it would soon kill a 20c battery.

 

I am also waiting for a couple 2650mAh 40c lipos. A good compromise between power and weight.

 

Andy.

[shades]

As a follow up, I must agree that it was/is worth the effort. I finally got to fly it properly. I must say that the A10 flies great. After softening the elevator it is a pleasure to fly. Mind you it was only 3 mins and one leg got stuck down.

 

Now I'm in the process of changing the other retract servos for proper ones and will be using 2650mAh 40c batteries. The thrust is comfortable over 1:1 with the new batteries so should be awsome to fly next time I get the chance.

[Richard Gibson 1]

Hello all A- Tenners, I am in the throws of getting my new Tankbuster ready for its maiden. I am a bit confused with the c of g position. As you know, the kit comes with 2 manuals..1 small glossy booklet and 1 A-4 printed sheets, One manual suggests 80 mm from the leading edge, and the other says 65 mm. I would appreciate anyones input on this.

Also (remember, this is before it's flown) One of the main retract servos wouldn't lock, I have replaced this and now it does. I am currently working on the nose wheel gear, as it seems to be very sloppy and it too doesn't seem to lock. Has anyone else come across these issues?

Cheers,

Richard.

[shades]

Hi Richard.

What you describe above sounds about normal for this model. The electronics are basically poor, or I was particularly unlucky. I have repaced all the gear servos with HS65 metal geared. I have also completely re-engineered the front leg steering and controls. The standard one has only a few degrees of travel before binding. And as you say has huge amounts of play. I found that the nose wheel would retract ok on the ground, but the servo isn't powerful enough when in the air. The only way it would retract completely is to fly inverted while accending steeply and then hit the gear up switch just as it reaches the peak of the climb.

I am still waiting to fly it again since the last series of modifications to the retracts.

The C of G on mine is around the 65mm mark. Which is in fact right on the wing spar. This seems about right when flying. I would recommend flying airing towards nose heavy, rather than tail heavy, then fine tune it to your own taste. The elevator is still very sensative at 65mm though.

When it does fly though, it's great. Good luck.

Andy

[Richard Gibson 1]

Hello Andy, Many thanks for your response, it was most helpful. When laying out £200 plus, we really shouldn't be encountering these or any issues.

I have just purchased one of the Turnigy servo speed regulators to slow the retracts. I plugged the 3 gear leads into it, and all wheels worked fine (snapping up and down) That is until I turned one of the adjusting screws, then one of the main gear wheels went dead. I changed this and that around but to no avail. I think I’m right in expecting this device to activate all the 3 retracts and not just two. Maybe yourself or someone out there might be able to shed light in this.

As soon as the wind stops blowing everything about, I hope to get the A-10 airborne.

Thanks again Andy,

Regards,

Richard.

[shades]

Hi Richard,

I also use the Turnigy servo regulator thingy. You're right in saying it should control all three retract servos. mine works great. The speed being fully adjustable from snapping up/down to, ( if I remember correctly), not moving at all or anything in between. One channel is reversable only. You only need one to be reversable because if two servos move in the wrong direction, you reverse the channel at the transmitter.

Try connecting the offending leg servo to a known working out put. If it still doesn't work, then it's probably the servo failed. Which wouldn't surprise me at all. You've probably already read my postings above, decribing the grief I've had with the electronics. We shouldn't really encounter these failings but it seems a fact of life. I am now rarely tempted to buy prebuilt all in models. But to be fair, there are now some excellent stuff around. FMS being one. The only reason I went against the grain in the first place, was because I was desperate for an A10, and that was the only one around at the time.

Andyshades

[Richard Gibson 1]

Thanks again Andy, As far as this model is concerned, I'm going to hang on to you. Ha!

It had it's maiden flight yesterday...firstly I found out straight away that it needs a hell of a run to get airborne, much more than any of my other planes. It flew reasonably well albeit a bit twitchy. Before the next flight I will drop the elevator pushrod down a hole at the servo end.

I wouldn't say that my landing was the best I have executed but it certainly was not heavy by any means...but it was enough to snap the retract where the strut fixes on to the very weak nylon mechanism. I'm having unfavourable thoughts about this particular model.

Cheers Andy,

Richard.

[shades]

Hi Richard,

Welcome to the world of pre-built models from iffy manufacturers. You are having exactly the same results as I did. That is another thing on the list that I have replaced/getting prepared to replace, the retracts. They are very week. Also what happens is the little metal rods,(I use the term "metal" loosely), that they pivot on, can bend very easily, which makes the retract servo stall.

What battery are you using? The standard 2200 it comes with is pants. I use a decent quaility 2650 which will give significantly more power, but the take off run will still be a fair old run. I have persisted with mine as it looks good and flys well. And I just wanted an A10. I've probably spent as much money on it now as it cost in the first place.

I found a place on the Web that supplies spares for the A10, where I got a complete retract set from. I am replacing them as each one brakes. I'm still waiting for a chance to fly mine again after my last round of mods.

Andrew.

[Richard Gibson 1]

Hello Andrew, I know it's a sefish atitude but I'm pleased not to be alone with these A-10 issues. I would be pleased if you would send me the link for spares you mentioned. I notice "Wheelspin Models" do them..priced at around £15. This seems quite a bit for just the nylon mechanism excluding strut. I guess we have to pay for the designing that went to make them.

One small factor for going with the A-10 was because I have quite a supply of 2200's...so yes! this is the battery size I'm using. I did read that people were using 2600 to extend flight duration, but when you get to my age, 4 minutes is plenty enough time to have to concentrate.

Thanks for you input Andrew. (Do you notice that writing in this box slows, or stops? or is it me?)

Richard.

[shades]

Hello Richard, I got my spares from Wheelspin models. The price includes the entire front leg, including the mechanism, leg, servo holder, steering rod, even the wheel. So not a bad price I think. Same with main legs.

You are doing well to get 4 mins from a 2200 without running it flat. I'm lucky to get 4 mins from a good 2650. Make sure your battery still shows at least 11.1v after the flight or you will kill the battery very early.

I was hoping to go flying today, but again it's blowing a gale. I've been working 7 days a week for over 2 months and thought I deserved a break. I guess not!

"Thanks for you input Andrew. (Do you notice that writing in this box slows, or stops? or is it me?)

Richard."

No. I think it's you.

Andrew

[Richard Gibson 1]

Hello Andrew, Thanks again for your response. I saw a cousin of mine last night, he has a precision engineering workshop. He is going to have a go at manufacturing the part that snapped, which is the very part the strut goes in to. It would be aluminium as opposed to nylon. The whole assembly as you know is held together by 2 pins which can easily be slipped out thus making the entire unit easy to disassemble.

I try not to let my lipos get below 20-30. I wasn't aware that 11.5 was a guide line..that's interesting. Does that mean that a 4 cell should not go below 14.8?

Would you believe that in writing this, it didn't slow down or stutter once. Thanks for fixing it Andrew.

Catch you later. Richard.

ps. I was able to squeeze in two nice flights with my B-17 the other day. It looked real pretty.

[shades]

Hi Richard, yes static voltage is a good guide. (11.1_3 ceIl, 14.8_4 cell etc. I think that leaves 20%. It doesn't matter if you go over this sometimes, but batteries will last longer if you don't. Bare in mind of course that the voltage is considerably lower when under load. ie when flying.

Which B17 do you have? Send me some pics if you can.

Andrew

[Richard Gibson 1]

Hi andrew.

I tried sending you pictures by return of the notification e-mail of your response but it came back to me. Maybe you could give me your e-mail address so I can do it that way . This is the link to my B-17. **LINK** I have changed the artwork from this and put it in the 100th Bomb Group markings with a squared D on the tail. I have been associated with the 100th BG since 1978, A group of us created the 100th Bomb Group Memorial Museum. **LINK** Maybe you know of it.

I live on the edge of another 8th Air Force base..the 490th at Eye, Suffolk...this is where our club fly from today.

Richard..

[Martin Appleby]

Hi Gents, always loved the A10 - fond memories from the 1980's watching pairs of them jinking and whining their way past my classroom window on their way up to (the now defunct) RAF Wainfleet weapons range. Perhaps if I'd spent a bit more time concentrating on Pythagoras and a bit less time watching the aeroplanes ... I picked up a very enticing bag of CML / Topgun A10 components at the nationals last week and not being very well versed in EDF's could I be cheeky and ask whether anyone has the manual or a PDF of the manual going spare ? Grateful thanks in anticipation 😉

[Graham Back - Rclife.co.uk]

I Worked alongside the A10's on deployment in Italy whilst they were being used in the Kosovo war, was intresting seeing the state of the planes after they landed after flying low and slow in live combat and taking small arms fire, but great planes!

[Jools Enticknap]

I've been flying a Dynam A10 for a while now, but could not help but tinker with it.

I wanted to extend the flying time, as 5 mins on a 2200 / 4S was just not enough. It makes such a nice noise.

Moving the ESC's into the rear of the aircraft meant I could use a larger battery, and extended the flight time, but the extra weight did put a larger stress on the wings, which I then added some carbon fibre to stiffen up.

All in all, lots of fun but after a year of abuse it's starting to look a bit rough, so I'm looking to try the FreeWing A10.