Cuban8

Sounds like another fault causing the screen to go blank 'if it just came back on'. Highly unlikely that the contrast had somehow adjusted itself down to blank, or the seller had helpfully sent it out to you like it. More likely the postal journey dislodged something and your manual handling of it has disturbed something again, albeit positively. As long as the RF output works consistently I guess the unit is useable, but chances are you'll arrive at your flying site all ready to enjoy yourself, and the journey will have caused the fault to re-occur. Annoying.

Unfortunately, the days of my youth back in the 60s and 70s where one could fly a small model aircraft just about anywhere, providing you behaved yourself, have long gone. You can't just rock up to any old open area and fly models without someone having a point of view about it in 2024. Near airports and secure areas etc are also a no-go but they always were, it's just been made more official. What model do you have? - is it more of a toy or is it a 'proper' R/C model? Depending on what it is will determine the best way forward for you.

Shouldn't be a difficult job. I've replaced several busted aerials on DX7s for club mates and I suspect the DX8 will be similar with a press stud style of connector to the RF board. Don't forget to disconnect the TX battery before starting the repair.

I suppose as with so many things medical, treatment is often tailored to the individual. In my case, I have noticed no deterioration in my vision so although what early signs of cataract I do have can be picked up by examination, I don't think I'd want to have treatment at this stage anyway - there would be no gain as my sight is otherwise good and I can easily pass the rather crude numberplate test to satisfy the DVLA by a wide margin. I'm short sighted and wear specs so my vision is corrected to be as good as anyone's. I do suspect that many people are going about their daily lives with less than optimum eyesight and should have their vision corrected - why they don't do so I couldn't say. In terms of modelling, unless the fitting of lights is because of scale authenticity, night flying (obviously) or just a straightforward novelty, then fitting bright lights to assist in keeping one's orientation on a model suggests to me that something else is going on. Obviously not a one size fits all situation.............camouflaged warbirds can be problematic for even the best eyesight - especially on a low circuit and approach against a background of distant trees, where I've experienced a model disappear from view briefly on finals. My WW2 camo artwork was clearly doing its job as originally intended, but still very alarming I can tell you . Landing and nav lights lights would be a help in this case.

Why on earth would the setting allow one to completely blank the display?

What a great shame Jon and I sincerely wish you the very best of good fortune in your new career with MB - top engineers are always in demand and you'll clearly have a secure future ahead of you. I'll not pass any comment on what's happened other than to say that I'm not in the least bit surprised.

So.....the RX was drawing power from the ESC's BEC (hence control surfaces working ok) but plugged into the RX battery port rather than the RX's throttle channel?

Regular eye tests........very important even if you don't need distance glasses. As one gets older visual acuity does decrease especially with the onset of cataract that creeps up so slowly that one doesn't notice. Years of staring at flying models in bright sunshine without proper UV protection or just being an 'outdoor person' for large amounts of your time does give your eyes a good dose of UV over time and can promote cataracts so my optometrist tells me. Certain medication (steroids) have a similar affect, apparently. Ten years ago I was told that I have very slight signs of catracts in both eyes although I never noticed any problem with my sight - I have bi-annual eye checks, take care to protect my eyes in bright conditions and there has been no further deterioration

Buying second hand radio is a very risky game and after seeing how some folks treat their gear over the field (left out in rain, dropped, bodged repairs, coated in exhaust residue, chucked on the floor of their car etc) unless i knew the owner and was satisfied that they were as careful with radio as I am, then I'd never recommend buying used. Rob, if you can't pin the problem down to a simple cause and the item is actually defective then request a refund, it's just not worth messing about with - you say that the Ebay seller has already pointed out a fault with the display - not good and it makes one wonder what else might crop up - can you really have confidence in the gear? Most Ebayers are very good and don't want any hassle, so go through the Ebay procedure and get your money back. My wife bought a ceramic chopping board on Ebay recently for around £40 and is was so poorly packed that it arrived in bits. No arguments from the seller and she received an immediate refund.

FB3, have you gone through this which I believe is the manual for your ESC? https://www.horizonhobby.com/on/demandware.static/Sites-horizon-us-Site/Sites-horizon-master/default/Manuals/EFL30AProBrushlessESCInstSheet.pdf Can't be certain, but check that you're following the ESC arming procedure correctly.

As has been said, it points to the ESC not liking the signal from the RX throttle channel - if the motor runs ok from a servo tester, plug a test servo into the tester and note its full sweep and direction and then plug the same servo into the RX throttle output and perform a full sweep from the throttle stick - note any differences e.g reversing (identical) or throw which should be very small if at all. Chances are you'll see a difference in the throttle output movement which you should be able to correct to suit the ESC. Had this before on a friend's model, some ESCs just seem a bit fussier than others.

I think you've just got to suck it and see.....I'm sure someone far more cleverer than myself could produce a thesis based on fluid dynamics, aerodynamics, Reynolds Numbers etc etc and come up with a definitive answer. Personally, I've never tried an IC prop on any of my electrics, but I'm sure it'd work just fine particularly in smaller sizes (say below 10" diameter) where the smaller mass compared to larger IC props will have a reduced effect on loading an electric motor during quick acceleration. Whether it's significant or relevant I really couldn't say.

I can recommend the etronix stand alone BECs that are available in either 5V or 6V versions at 5A. Usually around the eight quid mark from most model shops if you do a web search. I've had one in my Durafly Vampire since new (eight years+) when the original HK unit failed during bench setup and thankfully before the model's first flight.

Best wishes Matty, you'll be fine. Been through the mill myself over the last couple of years, know how you feel.

Is/are there local clubs who you could contact with a view to offering the items to members? In my experience of having the sad job of disposing of deceased friends' used engines (run of the mill stuff as you've described) they are becoming increasingly difficult to sell and if and when they are sold the prices are way lower than what we might have expected some years ago. Good luck though.

Yes, makes no sense at all, particularly if preventing a model from winding up where it shouldn't could be prevented. I guess users simply go with the landowners say so for a quiet life rather than rocking the boat. Quite understandable.

Why would electrically assisted gliders be banned at slope soaring sites? Providing they were silent, I'm struggling to think of a problem. I used to do a lot of sloping years ago on the North and South Downs and although it didn't happen that often, having electric boost might have saved a long walk and climb back up with a model when conditions were very marginal and one pushed one's luck.

No way would I go back to a non ball raced servo. The U-400 looks good but for over a hundred quid for four they are a tad expensive compared to the perfectly acceptable 3001s Ebay and second hand servos I steer clear of.

The old go-to Futaba 3001 looks to be pretty much unobtainable now (not including the Ebay offerings that I wouldn't trust). Looks like 3001/3/4 etc have been replaced with their new standard digital offering the S-U300. Not clear in the adverts whether it's a ballraced output though - anyone know? Good spec and price for non crazy performance sports models and usual Futaba quality I'd have thought. Need to finish a couple of projects myself and am short of a few standard type servos. I know I shouldn't temp fate but in getting on for 50 years of R/C modelling I've only had one servo actually fail in flight. One of the old Futaba 128s with the hard wired feedback potentiometer. A broken solder joint that was only just making contact gave an intermittent connection at about half throttle and caused uncommanded aileron movement - all other throttle positions it worked ok, so managed to get the model down. Picked up a few dodgy servos during preflight checks and testing though over the years.

Personally, I think you're taking a very risky course to rely on a temporary fix for any length of time (as all these DIY kits are), rather than a proper repair. Tyres undergo a tremendous amount of stress, and plug repairs, foam and Goop etc are just not able to cope with the full range of performance expected of a non-damaged tyre. Fine as a get you home fix but do consider getting a replacement tyre. Annoying, but better than a blow-out. Interestingly, a punctured tyre is not an automatic MOT failure, only an advisory, so presenting a vehicle with a tyre that's had a temporary repair that is evident to the tester shouldn't be a problem if I've understood the regs correctly. I don't think tyre insurance is a good deal for everyone - depends on the value of the tyre and if the vehicle spends a lot of time going to places where punctures are more likely, like builders yards, Industrial Estates and DIY centres. I have looked into it and the T&Cs do seem to be quite straightforward, but seeing as the tyres I buy are nothing special and my mileage now is nowhere near what it was, I don't bother with it.

I watched the YouTube repeat and I have to say that I noted what I thought was frustration on the part of the BMFA representatives with much of the CAA's standpoint as regards 'conventional' R/C flying. Yes, we know that thankfully, we are able to carry on pretty much as usual, but to most model flyers and I suspect the BMFA itself, we all really don't get the rationale for lumping line of sight R/C flying in with the wider 'drone' regulations. Interesting that this appears to be driven by Government policy according to the CAA chaps (who were both modellers, apparently!). Security being a particular worry. This is where it seems to be going......it looks as if the best outcome for us, because of the wild dreams of the airspace becoming black with BLOS commercial drones (when this will be they never say) will be registered flying sites that can be avoided by other vehicles using 'our' airspace. What use or good the registration scheme has been so far other than a money spinner, was not made clear. The 'benefits' of remote ID for model aircraft (especially when flown from a 'registered' site) as mentioned by the CAA chaps, seemed very tenuous and I got the impression that even they thought it was daft. So some hope for common sense after all. BTW I actually saw a fair sized commercial drone hovering over an industrial area in Colchester this week - I guess doing survey work. A rare bird indeed!

Two hundred and eighty quid.....wow that's a lot of dosh, so over a grand for a full set. Worth taking out tyre insurance I'd have thought - only a tenner or so each on the sort of tyres that I buy but I take a chance and don't bother. Obviously dearer on specialist and expensive deluxe EV types, but a moron with a pocketfull of self tappers and a powerdrill could easily do a lot of damage. Set of four mid range tyres for my Mondeo was just a tad under £300 a year ago including a free alignment check and adjustment - a different league. I'd have said the screw in the sidewall was certainly vandalism - right through Bibendum's mouth and an even bigger kick knowing the tyre would be not repairable - very worrying . Kwikfit quote £30 each for insurance on tyres between £250-£300 including malicious damage (must be reported to the police and recorded) - other tyre fitters are probably similar. Worth considering given that it usually covers punctures and pothole damage.

This time of year is not ideal for model flying whether learning or anything else - many do ignore mud, wind, cold, dampness etc and fly whatever the conditions, and that's great if that's one's preference. I don't and I know that 90% of the members in my clubs share the same sentements and don't enjoy difficult conditions - not much fun for your instructor as well. The big advantage of indoor flying if you have a facility nearby! Don't get too worked up over missing lessons at this time of year, if you get a good day now and again during winter then do take advantage, but stop/start flying with weeks between lessons isn't very productive anyway when learning IMHO. With a bit of luck we're due for a good Spring and summer and if you can fit in regular flying sessions over the good weather then you'll soon make rapid progress.

I don't use expo and don't use rates once I've set the model up to my liking. I've only gone down the expo and rates usage route when I dabbled with some mental funfly models with huge control surfaces.

Perhaps he should get into the drone delivery racket - promise of that seems to run in a totally different reality and time dimension 😁