kc

No, I haven't built those but Phoenix Model Products have an excellent reputation. I like the fact that you can see the plans and instructions online before you buy. Suggest you phone them and ask whether Snowy or Stage 2 is most suitable for you. I also like the idea of the Shindig and Pepperpot models - Traditional models but electric.

Actually the photo is one from Page 3 25th March 2007. It's one of several and I found a clear copy by double clicking the photo. I assume the rudder is mounted on a 'dowel ' and turns with the tailwheel. Does that seem the part and the problem?

Have you thought of the kits by Phoenix Model Products?

Basil, I don't have the Pioneer plan to hand so instead of photos then give us a better description of the problem...... could it be the tailwheel steering part? Garry Hallam showed on page 2 back in 2007 an alternative part is it that or something like that?

Basil, nobody has replied so far - I suggest that you put a picture of the problem so that someone can offer advice. Alternatively I note that Jimbo ( Jim Carss) said way back that he would help anybody building this model and gave his email address - send him an email or a PM to see if he can help.

Could happen I suppose but it's still a faulty item when received so a refund is due. But if it was a cable coming loose what a good job it didn't happen whilst a model was flying! Frankly buying secondhand radio for flying models is not a good idea unless you know the owner and how it's been used- a cheap radio new is better than a fancy one in unknown condition.

The easy answer is to say demand your money back from the seller for selling with false advertising. The longer answer might be that the battery is not fully charged or faulty and the screen is too feint to see with low battery. DX6i is fairly feint anyway but brightness can be increased in the menu. Leaving in bright sun can wreck any LCD screen. It might not be worth spending too much money to repair an older Tx in case there is some other problem as well. Better to immediately claim your money back.

I think the u/c is mentioned somewhere in the text or in the article, or perhaps it was in the 4Max advert. 4Max sell a GRP one for £4.99 and it might be that one.

What is the actual reason for closing? Has glow engine sales dropped so low or is there some other reason? Very sad for Jon and other staff.

Doesn't it make a load of dust in the workshop? or do you have a dust extractor?

Aeromodelling is a small community really so if you email the local clubs mention the builders name if he came from that area. Chances are that someone will have known him and know of his building skill which may sell the model. Taking the model along to the club when they have most of the members there might be acceptable to the club and could be anice way to pass the model back into the right hands. My view on prices is based on looking at the secondhand models on sale at the Old Warden model events last year. Lots of nice glow models that were still there at the end when I looked again for bargains. Those models which were priced at about the value of just the engine had already been sold. Bigger models didn't sell even though they were nicely made - nobody had room I suppose. Electric models sold well as this is the most popular thing in the south of England where open space is rare and noise a problem. -

If you know of any pub chain that want models to " hang from the ceiling" then let us all know!

State you THINK it's a Nor Cal Continental probably with OS 60FP with the quantity of servos. Specify servo make and Number if you see it. . Only receivers for 2.4 Ghz are worth anything now. I suggest you state 'open to reasonable offers'. Reject any offers less than £50. I would say £80 would give the buyer a fair deal IF the motor runs OK. You might get more if you tried (£100 to £120 ) or you might settle for less to a 'good home' Test flying runs a risk of destruction but just running an engine would be OK with an experienced pilot who knows safety procedure. Suggest you find a prop ( any prop ) so the engine can be turned over by hand or ask the viewer to bring one to fit so he can judge the engine turns OK.

Could the ESC to Rx plug have been placed in 'upside down' ? Result is no power to Rx. Futaba had a bit on their plugs to stop this, but most other plugs don't have this now.

It's ironic that an unstarted kit would be worth more than a built one even though when built it has all the extras included. So it might not fetch what you remember it costing! It's a fact of aeromodelling -the builder has all the fun of building and that was your present to him. It looks a nicely finished model and I bet he really enjoyed building it.

I hate acronyms too! Almost Ready To Fly is the proper term - its these cheap ( at first, not now ) ready built planes mostly from Asia which have dominated the market in recent years.

Really thorough mixing might be the solution next time. For this time the old trick of applying more hardener onto the joint might save the job.

When you have the measurements it would be worth putting a new "Identify this plane" posting here on the forum to see if anyone else knows the design. It is possible the Continental was copied in the Far East and sold as an ARTF plane under another name. With a name the model with engine might sell more easily.

Judging by the photos the fuselage looks 8 times the length of the silencer which you say is about 160mm so it seems to fit the 49 inch fuselage length specified for the Continental. Someone in USA seems to be looking for the plans of that design for many months - worth looking around to see if the plan is still with the plane?

The look of that plane made me think it was possibly a Nor-Cal Continental but that is 72inch wingspan. The general shape and the very detailed canopy gave me that impression. A USA kit that was sold for a long time. See the photo here - a fairly rare plane in UK but it could be someone scaled it down and even sold it as an ARTF at a smaller size. The plane will be worth a bit more if you find th model name - a measure up might tell ( the Continental is 49 inch fuselage and 72span ) The allen keys needed might be AF rather than Metric and they can be very similar at small sizes but only the exact fit should be used.

In the third photo I can see the two holes in the side for an allen key to go through to remove silencer capscrews.

Well if it's bigger cyl head dia than an OS40FP then we might guess it's an OS60FP as the silencer looks like the FP series. They were plain bearing engines which were the cheaper OS engine series. Ball bearing motors were dearer than the FP series. But the plain bearings may last longer as they had no ball bearings to rust or get gummed up. To identify it will have FP stamped on the crankcase and state size too. An experienced aeromodeller can tell something of the engines condition by putting a prop on it and turning over by hand a few times. Left in the plane they might put fuel in and start it to see if it runs well. You might look around for items to include to sweeten the sale - things like new glow plugs in packets (cost around £3 each or more new ) and any servos might improve the price you get. Put a photo up with any bits you find and we might be able to tell you what they are if you don't know.

For your reference from OS data sheet an OS40 size measures about 66mm from cyl head ( without glow plug which sticks out a little ) to centre of prop shaft while a OS61size is about 78mm. Might estimate the size by that. Many different models though. If you post a photo of the wing then maybe we could identify the model. Measure wing span tip to tip exactly too. Showing the wheels might reveal if retracts are fitted ( worth more ) and a look inside the fuselage might identify if servos etc are present. Looking at the engine it looks a little oil encrusted which suggests it's well used and not as new as the model.

BMFA club finder

There seems to be a tiny screw visible below silencer and that might release cowl. There could be holes to insert an allen key to remove silencer bolts on opposite side. Needs a good fitting allen key though as bolts will be tight. Despite what Cuban thought, when we checked last week for engine values most of us were a bit suprised that they seem higher on EBay than expected! Planes are too difficult to post but engines are easier. Measuring the Cyl head diameter and silencer length might tell us the engine size approx - OS data sheets gave all the dimensions. Measuring my OS 40FP shows a 37mm dia cyl head and 115mm length silencer - anything a lot larger could be an OS 61 etc. BMFA Club Finder could tell you a nearby club. It could be more satisfying to get his plane to a good home rather than destroying it to remove engine.