kc

Surely what you describe is Mode 2 (not Mode 1 ) or did you write it incorrectly? Anyway for 3 channel just use rudder where the ailerons would be. Actually thats the righthand stick in both Mode 1 and 2. It's the throttle which swops over with elevator in different Modes.

Without ailerons it would be possible to saw the wing tips off and make them detachable for ease of transport & storage. Might reduce the overall length by 6 or 8 inches.

Not much dihedral -is it the aileron version?

Have you glued the wing halves together and given up the 2 piece wing idea?

The wire elevator joiner is 14 SWG in that photo. 14SWG is 2mm approx The Fokker DV111 like all WW1 biplanes has a very short nose therefore it needs the tail surfaces to be very lightweight to avoid having to put lead in the nose. Using 5mm ply for the curved section of the elevator might mean some extra lead in the nose to balance if it's a lot heavier than the specified laminated balsa.

Lots of info on wire bending here in an old article. Bending the 2mm piano wire for the elevator joiner will be easy and dimension is not critical. Just use a vice and hammer. The cabane struts may be thicker wire & need to be accurately bent to ensure wing is level. Undercarriage is also difficult. You could make trial pieces of softer wire before making the real parts from piano wire. The sort of soft wire used for wire clothes hangers is very useful for these experiments ( but useless for the real parts) Read up about "Bend Allowance " before you start. ( I suggest looking for this in your own language.)

If flying model aircraft was easy it wouldn't be worth doing! We do it because it's difficult. Keep at it.......

Stopping draughts from the skirting board to floorboard joint might help a lot and cost nothing. Gap might not be obvious as carpet might appear to cover it, but on a cold and windy day you could feel the draught. Stuffing any gap with paper or cardboard might achieve a lot for just a bit of work. Good use for junk mail! Obviously make a proper job with beading or replaced skirting board and sealant when re-carpeting. Same with window draught - filling any gaps on rarely used windows will help. Obviously if you seal up all draughts then you need to ventilate well after shower use etc to avoid mould. If you have a room over the garage ( as I have ) then draughts around the garage door might need stopping up to avoid constant cold air just underneath floor. Obviously difficult if garage is opened a lot. Up and over doors often have big gaps which could be minimised perhaps. If the garage is not going to be used for a car then the deluxe way of turning it into a workshop was shown by someone on the forum - he put an insulated plasterboard partition with window BEHIND the main door. When he opened the door the partition neatly sealed the cold air out and had a window for daylight. Closed looked like a normal garage. Would avoid having to get freeholders permission I suppose. .

The Tory's had plans to make it easier for leaseholders to buy their freehold and one would expect the Labour gov to be even keener on that and it's still scheduled to happen. You can do it now by negotiation but certainly take advantage when the Gov set a formula for the price. Modern gas boilers seem to need only a small hole in the wall for the flue -maybe 3 inch dia - so the freehold owner should surely allow that. By aquiring the freehold you wouldn't have any problem with permission. You could still own the freehold even in a block of maisonettes etc.

Lipo Man, before you actually spend money may I suggest you wait until the coldest winter day and knock on your heat pump neighbours door to see if it really works nicely. If it does then tell us all and also tells us what sort of house it works in. To get back to Jon's situation. He implied he might need to move in few years, therefore I reckon any expenditure should not be just for Jon's comfort but should be on heating equipment that will entice future buyers/ achieve best price. A house that doesn't sell easily due to some obvious deficency in heating system or anything may well lose you the house you want to buy. People paying a good price don't want to do anything when they move - they want it all done for them. It could be that something simple like a wood burning stove would make the elec radiators look better. Or it could be that heat pumps will be so desirable in 2030 that it would be worthwhile installing one.

Martin, access to the Daily Mail website is free. Anyone can read that article. If anything there seems incorrect please state the correction. Can you be sure that these neighbours are not being paid commission when recomending the system? How can "more comfortable " be due to having heat pumps? Sounds like an advertising point suggested by commision being paid.

SLEC hinges

Peter Miller died earlier this month and here we are discussing the construction of a Peter Miller design on the very day of his funeral....... Peter would have answered all this himself a few weeks ago. It's nice that people are still building his designs.

Hinged part is bevelled. Curved tips are laminated from 3 strips as Steve says.

Hairy hinges are hairy so they absorb cyano glue. Cyano is applied after inserting hinges into wood. Ordinary Mylar hinges are not hairy. Any hinges would be suitable as long as the correct glue is used for that particular type of hinge. See the various hinges on sale from SLEC - note 'Flocked Mylar' and ordinary Mylar strip are available. Flocked means hairy in this context ( not in ordinary English )

Recess the hinges into the wood so that the gap between elevator and tailplane is minimised.

Anybody considering heat pumps should read this article

It depended on what one did....... The one thing that made a big difference was job security. The ability to obtain a mortgage depended on whether one was monthly paid or hourly paid. Hourly paid in 1960 meant one was entitled to only an hours notice! Weekly paid a weeks notice, monthly a month notice. Hence very difficult to buy your own house if hourly paid like many jobs even though they were often well paid - building societies looked for security. Laws about redundancy changed that a lot. Owning ones house meant inflation went in your favour!

I think it's important that those of us who have firsthand knowledge of the era record their view. Throughout the 1950's things were improving all the time and most people were doing well. But in certain parts of UK ( perhaps the old shipbuiding areas etc ) it may have taken a while longer. I think it's television that changed Britain most - everyone could see how the other half lived. With only 2 or 3 channels everyone watched much the same things each evening and you would talk about it next day. But there were downsides - until 1959 secondhand cameras such as Leicas cost more than new! Reason - imports were restricted to professional users. You couldn't take your money out of the country - the £50 travel limit lasted until the 1970's. But not many had £50 anyway until in the 1960's people realised that they had £50 which was enough for a foreign holiday. In the 1950's and until 1973 there was no VAT and the only sales tax was on luxuries such as cars, caravans, cameras etc. Purchase tax on cameras for example was about 32 percent. This was changed in April 1973 to a 10 percent tax on everything except food. The reason for this was to enable us to join the EEC. Now it's 20 percent on most things! Of course Brexit means we no longer HAVE to have VAT. Income tax was high - around 90 percent for high earners now it's much lower and the tax is on every service or item you purchase- same for everyone. There are journalists who now who constantly rubbish the 1970's as a terrible time of strikes and rubbish in the streets etc. The reality is for most of us that it was a great time of rising wages and purchasing power. Interest rates on mortgages though was about 15 percent in 1972. Foreign holidays were normal. Remember the time in about 1974 when wages rose by the same amount for everybody - a fixed sum not a percentage. This was real 'levelling up' and helped the less well off and young wage earners. Didn't last long though. Watching old cinema films on Talking Pictures etc from the 1940's 50's 60's to 70's does give some idea of real life then. The shots of London residential streets with no parked cars is noticeable. Most people in genuine crowd shots look well dressed and not poor. To me the most nostalgic are the scenes of the Pool of London as a hive of industry -ships unloading right in the City, tugs taking 'craft' past into smaller docks.

I think the term " spoiler" is not correct for that item ( spoilers are different) the part yet to be built is the elevator. You should note that the elevator joiner is shown as 14SWG and would be piano wire ( music wire ) of 2.03 mm (0.08 inch ) diameter. SWG (Standard Wire Gauge )is not quite the same as AWG ( American Wire Gage ) When you build the undercarriage it will probably use 10SWG piano wire which is 3.25mm or it might be 8SWG which is 4mm

Coal was not rationed. The only 'rationing' was cutting the electricity supply area by area for 3 hours and area varied each day. All coal went to power stations and not to households. This saved power stations from running out of coal. The government were cunning and outsmarted the miners. Since the 1940's all coal merchants had to submit returns every Monday ( called HC1 ) so on Tuesdays the gov knew the exact situation and when it got crucial ended the strike. Immediately the strike was off a secretly pre planned shipment of coal from Germany etc was started and lots of small ships were already chartered so arrived at local docks within a week or so. Problem was solved but coal industry was doomed even before Thatcher. House coal was imported for the first time. But public lost confidence and went to gas. Consequently houses were built without a flue.....

Surely you are not admitting the modern generations are less tough than my generation! Seriously if your house does have a flue then make sure it is still in working order just in case .........those of us who can remember power cuts ( 3 hours a night often 6pm to 9pm in 1971 ) wouldn't want to have been without a fireplace. Russia problems could be worse than a miners strike!

We have all got used to living like lords and heating the whole house! Back in the 1950's it was normal for many ( most?) to heat just 1 room with an open coal fire which was lit around dusk or when arriving home from work and left to burn out before bedtime. Bedrooms etc were unheated except for whatever heat escaped from the living room. Kitchens were unheated except by the cooking stove unless the boiler was lit to heat water. Then about 1960 people started to go ' all electric' but still mainly heated just 1 room and usually with a radiant electric fire. Frankly that's all we needed just one open fire or a 1 or 2kilowatt electric fire for about 4 hours plus an immersion heater for a short while. Maybe a fire for just for six months a year, nothing for Spring to Autumn.. Actually that's all you really need unless old. What does that cost now compared to your central heating bill! Around the mid to late 1960's houses started to be built or retro fitted with central heating and then the bills went up....... I don't think many of us would want to live like that now but we could if we had to. But I do suggest that a radiant electric fire is much more cosy and economic in a sitting room than warming the air in the whole room. ( if can you still buy radiant electric fires! )

Surely there are 2 different issues here- 1. the 'Listen before talk' thing ( DSM2 )that was outlawed for new imports but Tx that were already here were still allowed to use the system. 2. the Tx power. USA allows higher power than EC & UK. That's why the US spec Tx should not be used. It might be possible to change this in the software although I don't know if that is a DIY job.

I am going to say that cutting down on draughts is a worthwhile way to save on heating. Check the skirting board to floor board/carpet for gaps as well as windows. But of course then you need to make sure that vapour from showers etc is vented in some way to avoid mould. As for leasehold look into whether you can aquire the freehold - perhaps in conjunction with other owners. Law is changing on this. Worth seeing Government website for current info.