Allan Bennett

MattyB, my sound system's engine startup sound is triggered by a quick blip of Ch6 to -100. At the moment it's achieved by switching SC down momentarily and then back to centre position (Up position gives machine gun). My aim is to have this logic sequence make the quick blip the first time my Thr reaches the value that starts the prop turning, so that I don't have to juggle throttle and switch to get a coordinated startup. In my example I've used -50 as the throttle trigger value, but I'll have to find the actual value by experiment -- probably somewhere around -90.

Actually that's what I was looking at when I referred to 'manual' 🙂

Thanks Tim Kearsley for taking the time, and for explaining the logic, and MattyB for looking into it too. Use of the Sticky with a reference to L05 goes some way to explaining to me how Sticky works, which I couldn't figure out when I read the OTX manual. I've just tried it on OTX Companion, and it does exactly what I wanted. At the end of the flight switching off my Tx will reset the switch, won't it?

Thanks MattyB. Trying to explain my problem in words was tricky enough! I look forward to seeing your demo in due course.

Thanks Tim. What you've suggested sounds logical. I've never used GVs before, but I'll give your suggestion a try later (preparing for this afternoon's flying at them moment).

But this is OTX 🙂 I can program Excel and Basic and similar, but I can't figure out anything other than very basic logic steps in OTX 😒

Having given this problem some more thought I've realised that I can simplify it: My throttle action is already inhibited by !SG^, so switch SG doesn't need to be included in my logic line. That means I only need to create a logic that will blip on for 0.5 seconds when Thr value reaches a certain point. This can be achieved with this simple logic line:- But I'm still stuck with the problem that I only want this to happen the first time the throttle is opened beyond the trigger point. So I figure I need another logic line that will latch on when the Thr value exceeds the target, so that I can then include that in the AND Switch column, but I can't figure how to make a logic that latches on after the initial trigger.

Interesting. I just add a MAX (-100%) Switch (!SG^) line to my throttle mix which ensures no throttle unless SG is up. Admittedly that allows an instant startup if the throttle stick is anything other than fully down when SG is switched. Nevertheless, I still can't figure how Sticky might help with what I'm trying to achieve.

Thanks for looking Graham. I've been reading up on Edge and Sticky, but I still can't understand how they work or if they're relevant to my quest. I'm pretty sure I need a 'flag', but then the logic would need to be checking SG and throttle stick position as well as the flag, and I can't see how to use three conditions in a logic line. I know there are some logic gurus out there, so I hope that one or more of them will chip in when they get the time 🙂

Not quite: I want to temporarily change the state of physical switch C to down when physical switch G is commanded up, but only if the throttle stick is also above a certain level (-50 in my test example). BUT I only want it to happen once during a flight -- not to happen every time the throttle passes -50 while switch G is still up.

Having come back to this problem this evening I've found that what I described in my original post no longer works in simulation the same way as it previously did. The logic I've now got is:- The way it's mixed is:- Now what happens when I move SG down and have the throttle greater than -50 is I get a half-second blip of CH06 to -100%, which is what I want. If the throttle's at less than -50 when I move SG down, CH06 doesn't blip until the throttle is raised above -50, which is also what I want. But if, having triggered the blip of CH06, I then reduce the throttle to less than -50, and then increase it again above -50, it triggers another blip of CH06, which is not what I want. So it seems like I do need to set a 'flag' to prevent repeated blips of CH06 being triggered by throttle passing the -50 mark, but I can't figure how to do it.

I want to create a logic that will momentarily (say 0.5 seconds) switch SC down the first time SG is switched up (my throttle enable switch) and the throttle stick reaches or exceeds a certain threshhold. I thought this needs two logic lines so that a flag can be set to prevent activation the second or subsequent time that condition is met, but in an OpenTX simulation with the logic |a|>x [I1]Thr -50 SGv 0.5 I seem to get what I want (I've used SG down in the test because the simulator default position of the switch is up); The logic switches on for 0.5 seconds whenever SG is switched to the down position and throttle is above -50, but it doesn't swich on again if SG remains down and the throttle goes below -50 and then back up above -50, so that seems to be what I want without the need for a second logic line. BUT, it only works that way when I apply it to a channel that has no other line in its mix. If I add it to my existing Ch6 mix in REPLACE mode it doesn't work, and to make matters work, Ch6 then no longer responds to the first line of its mix, which is SC Weight (+100%). Any ideas please?

Having got myself a decent airbrush many years ago I wasted much time and money trying to get decent results with, first, canned air and later a large compressor with tank. It wasn't until I went on a beginners' airbrushing course at airbrushes.com that I was able to get good results, having learned about air pressure, paint thinning, airbrush maintenance etc. Since I now only fly electric models my preferred paint is Lifecolor water-based acrylics, mainly because they're easiest to clean but also because they have a wide range of colours. I usually use a Halfords rattle can of plastic primer to start with, and finish with Humbrol enamel varnish to waterproof and to give the appropriate amount of gloss to the finish.

I am not paranoid (I think), but I do take care with my LiPos. I store them at 50% charge or less -- usually the 25% or so charge that they finish at after a flight. I store them in a set of fire-resistant 'pigeon holes' constructed out of plasterboard (half-hour fire resistance). I always balance-charge them in fire-resistant LiPo sacks the day I'm going to use them. I keep a fire extinguisher not far from the charging station to deal with any spread of the fire (probably impossible to extinguish a burning LiPo itself). I transport them to the field in a fire-resistant carry bag. Any that are physically damaged or puffing excessively I discharge to zero volts with a car tail light bulb before disposing.

Having got the shortcut working, the site is asking me to log in each time I access it, even though the "Remember me" box is checked. When I do enter the correct email address and password I get a "Sorry something went wrong" error message. That's with my iPad in landscape mode, but in portrait mode I still get the log in request but when I tap it it logs me in without me having to input email address or password. Wierd!

Thanks John, I had tried that icon, but wasn't patient enough to scroll right to the ".... More" button.

Thanks guys. All my bookmarks were created on my Windows PC and are saved in my Google account, but iPad doesn't seem to give me the option to create a new bookmark. Anyway I've managed to edit the address on my existing bookmark, and it's working.

For many years I've used a Google bookmark to go directly to the forum on my iPad. I've checked the bookmark and it's still directed to http://www.modelflying.co.uk/formums/ but when I select it it gives me the normal RCM&E banner header, including ad and tabs for the vaious sections, but then the 404 Page not found message where the forum listing should be. If I then tap on the "Forum" tab I get a drop-down "Login" tab, and if I tap on that I then get the forum listing with me already logged in. I appreciate this may be an issue with my iPad, but I wonder if the address for your forum page has changed.

They still do with one of their mount ranges, up to 0.90 size.

So long as the wood is good quality (not too soft) and the holes are not drilled too large, there's nothing wrong with using self-tappers or wood screws. The OS61 2-stroke in my Flair Pulsar was mounted that way without any issues.

Just one point; brushed motors don't care what the battery type is, so long as the voltage is within their design limits. I agree though that brushless equivalents will be lighter, more efficient and longer lasting, but thr OP would have to factor in the weight and cost of three brushless speed controllers instead of a single brushed one required for multiple brushed motors.

I suppose the first question is, do you want to keep the model 'original', or do you want to equip it with a modern reliable radio system? The Digifleet equipment in there, while good in its day, is about 40 years out of date now! Second question is how sound is the airframe? Is the covering material perished, are the glue joints sound, and are there any 'spongy' areas caused by previous use with a glow engine? You can test if the motors are in running order by briefly connecting a 6v or 7.2v battery to them WITH THE PROPS OFF. If they run, and if you want to go for current equipment, you'll need a brushed speed contoller rated at about 30A, a transmitter and associated receiver, and replacement modern servos. If you decide to proceed, more detail such as aircraft dimensions and weight will allow other more-kmowledgeable people to advise more specifically on component specs and battery size.

I once read that an acceptable IR would be in the region of 12,000 divided by the pack's mAh, which tallies (in round figures) with what Martin Harris expects from his 2200mAh packs. Since the battery itself is part of the circuit carrying the power, the higher its IR (a) the more it will heat up when a current flows through it and (b) the more it will try to restrict that current.

As Engine Doctor has said. Probably any primer will do the job but, since Halfords (and probably others) do a primer specifically for plastic, that's what I use on fibreglass.

Thansk Flying Squirrel, I knew the nozzles were consumables but I wasn't aware of heater cartridges. I can't find them on the Creality site, but I presume this is the kind of thing you're talking about?