flight1

As with all 2k paint or promer you must use a good mask and have good ventalation if you can smell it a mask must been worn!! long turm exsposure is no good, but with the right mask and ventelation good to use in our small quantities. Alternative available from here and the same as posted above on ebay but with spay gun thinners required for both to spay

At the moment I am using EL2 laminating epoxy which is excellent and wet outs very well also from easy composites i use there 25g cloth which is very good to I would use the slow hardner for laminating large areas. If you are a well practiced laminator and quick at it the fast hardener is ok too. the trick with light laminating is to use just enough resin to 'wet out' the cloth

It could be the fact that to much resim has been applied and has't been sqeezed out, use a soft sqeegee (works better than a credit card) from the centre out to get rid of exses ressin then do the peel ply and rub over, finniish will have the texture of the peelply cloth. The bubles in the resin can come from the wood you are laminating over, also bubles are formed when mixing and don't exscape due to cold ressin. i do think as the fact that you were fine befor and that this time you have used a sponge could be the root cause

well composites are complicated, what are you using would be helpful ie info on ...epoxy / polyester/phenolic resin , the cloth used and method use would be helpful to give useful infomation(temprature of room your laminating in?) as for pin holes your not laminating correctly and it's not a peelply effect ?

What's the reason for wanting to convert these engines to petrol, is it cost of fuel or just an interest? Running these engines on petrol will have less power as they are running on methanol now. with the smaller engine the extra weight of the ignition and battery will probably be a disadvantage. I would keep them on glow and use a modern fully synthetic glow fuel with a low oil content to keep the mess at bay as for the saito is it the twin plug version? that will be a problematic conversion. If you really want a petrol engine sell what you don't want and buy a purpose built petrol engine just my thoughts on going through all the other attempts and including mine are problematic

**LINK** https://www.facebook.com/tomislav.zeko.1/videos/2874791942541094/

Oops!!   http://<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Ftomislav.zeko.1%2Fvideos%2F2874791942541094%2F&show_text=0&width=560" width="560" height="316" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe> https://www.facebook.com/tomislav.zeko.1/videos/2874791942541094/ Oops!!   Edited By flight1 on 18/01/2020 10:12:03 Edited By flight1 on 18/01/2020 10:13:29 Edited By flight1 on 18/01/2020 10:14:25 Edited By flight1 on 18/01/2020 10:16:02

If you are using 2k spay cans make sure you use the one (proper 2K) that has a hardener release valve on the bottom of the can(once activated usable for 7 hours) But in your case don't as you have used enamel, if it was just sealing the solartex from getting grubby it be good. I would use a very light?thin coat of epoxy lacqure see glaskote available i believe from fighteraces in the UK.

JB weld will work just remember to mix accurately and well and where you want it stuck lightly key the surface and make sure it grease and dust free. used it a lot on that Hanriot of mine cabines and undercarriage parts takes a week in a warm place to competly cure to full strength ( ie 90 odd percent on a day rest over a few days

If you download 170317 firmware you will see when you unzip it the folder will contain two files one eu the other not  use the eu frk file and all will be good  ( xjt eu170317.frk  ) Edited By flight1 on 12/11/2019 19:38:01    don't for get the Rx firmware if needed and rebind all rx's to Edited By flight1 on 12/11/2019 19:40:49

If Edited By flight1 on 12/11/2019 19:39:21

your charger is 80w max thats your limiting factor, get a better charger that can do more amps ie 80w at 6s pack is about 22 volts so 80 divided by 22 gives 3.6 amps approx so so 6amps x 22v equals 133 watts so look for a 150watt charger or better. hope that these basics calculations are helpful v a and watts are all relevlant to each other. any q's just post some more Edited By flight1 on 10/11/2019 18:53:13   some on bet me to it   Edited By flight1 on 10/11/2019 18:53:42

first thing to check is what you ingition modual voltage range is , most modual these days are 4.8 to 8.4v so can take 5 cell Nimh , Life 2s or lipo 2s with no problems. if using Nimh use sub c bateries so there is little volt drop when loaded. There is no problem using 1 battery pack for two engines and one opto isolator on a y lead feeding each ignition, just check current draw requirement can be handeled by the chosen battery pack and isolator. i use these i becs as are good and have a regulator to keep the voltage constant, bit on the more expensive side but they are good and reliable. Edited By flight1 on 03/11/2019 15:51:20

Polyester will melt polystyrene foam , don't use the auto motive resin for laminating get a good laminating polyester for that job it will be stronger and lighter than the automotive stuff as that tends to be low grade and will have fillers/thickaners in it too a lay up of epoxy will be a lot lighter and stronger than polyester but it might be ok for your application. plenty of models have been made from polyester with good results being cheaper t so easer to sell, while a epoxy version will end up lighter /stronger and more expensive. take your pick but choose the right foam.  P.S  epoxy left in a container or in a large lump will heat up and cause a potential fire bit slower than polester but still a big caution to be considered Edited By flight1 on 31/10/2019 14:18:11

Any decent light weight glider will do . i have used my dlg (an old longshot 4)for very light winds giving it a spin launch out over the slope to see if you can stay up and if not you got the height to get back better than a e motor as no weight handycap. You could look for a HLG hand launch glider) or F3j type gliders see the top model range of gliders see what hyperflight sell to get an idea

No it a artf, its still available to buy in shops now. 4 standard servos required and the new ones come with electric conversion kit too

With this problem it is the small text file that lets the system know you have the right sd card contents for the version of optx you have so a bit important. when updating the sd card to preserve the custom voice and model picture files (you might have luna too etc) i copy and paste the new contents in each folder one by one and when the computer asks 'some files have the same name' i click 'replace these files' so preserving my custom extras hile updating whats' changed. Sounds complicated but quite simple when done and in this case not a problem as you haven't made any custom stuff yet thats for later if needed. Ps if models have been created don't delete that folder, always buck up with companion and when updated right back to radio.

When you flashed it last you might have had a corupted flashing error try to flash it again you never know

Well you might as well start from the latest release of opentx 2.3.1 from here install companion and set the correct radio in the settings first, then let it down load the latest version you want for your radion and flash . then get the latest soud pack here With the sd card make sure you delete the old card contents and then unzip the new file and copy and past it onto the sd card. should be good to go then.   Edited By flight1 on 09/10/2019 14:51:51

you have to set it to set it to PPM mode if not using a open tx radio/. try below allways ajust the encoder knob with radio off Turn on or turn off the green light procedures are as following：Turn off radio, rotate the encoder knob switch to "0"position, then press and hold the black bind button, power on the radio meanwhile, release the button after 3 seconds, the green light will flash, optional protocolsswitchsimultaneously Edited By flight1 on 08/10/2019 18:13:33

If the epoxy hasn't gone off then it never will , the sticky bits is the epoxy that wasn't mixed properly and having this the laminate will never be at full strength. put in hot box for a week wipe off sticky with isopropyl alcohol (proper solvent for epoxy, be carefull) and apply flow cote over top or grind off completely and re do () With epoxy always weigh accurately to the specified ratio as per epoxy type used and mix thoroughly and use in temperatures reater than 16deg cel for good results My preferred laminating resin at the moment is from here **LINK** and there light cloth for skinning is good tight weave see here **LINK**

yes i am right always confusion with male and female connectors these days As for electrical connections you should always talk about the electrical connections and not the housing that surrounds it. as for shorting out the resister won't prevent this just slow the amount of current flow on contact so it works just as well battery side or the other, basic electrical principles here. Edited By flight1 on 04/10/2019 18:01:25

it shouldn't make to much odds but the connector that is least likely to be able to be shorted should go on battery side, so that should be female plug ie female contacts that are shouded by the yellow housing.

One other thing I have seen a lot is that many never allow the tail to lift up and fly before lift off. Always holding up elevator until the plane yanks off the ground which can lead to problems like not reaching a safe airspeed before lift off and this is very much a bigger problem the more scale and heavier the plane is. mabe try this if you already don't i think this will be a process of checking each thing off until sorted.

P.S. How do I check wing washout? do you have a wing incedence metere or can you borrow one from a mate? you need to check the wing tip trailing edge is up compaired to the root section basicly here some links about it **LINK** **LINK** slso thread on here **LINK** all good info