flight1

i use the No Nonsense from screwfix cheep and good but for something harder I use the light body filler from the car world as Big Boy Lightweight Body Filler and as above if you infill with balsa use a aliphatic glue as easer sanding

My RX's can fit Futaba or Jr style servo plugs, So i buy what ever I feel like at the time. and as for a trainer standard analogue servos will do, no need to complicate things. As above buy from a known shop as a lot about are poor copies. Hitec 311 are fine and for a smaller budget try the K-Power P0600 . As for the latest futaba they are going to the s-bus compatible new range see Futaba SU300 which work on standard pwm RX's and the s-bus ones. The servos proberly are all going that way in the future.

well the filling the whole in the old cover should be suffice i have a small bit of Jb weld laying about should do the trick. and yes the locking nut some how got loose and the tip of the tappet screw broke off (just the bit with the slot cut in),

yes could be a situation of making one up, i have looked for magnum parts, I am sure something will turn up, just got to keep asking around you never know

Hi does any body know or have a tappet screw for a asp 160twin (same as for 79/80FS) part no 80724 also the rocker cover (part no 80711). someone must have them laying around/stashed away. Just engines says out of stock. Will pay for them Any ideas?

Dope! 50 years ago that could have been the start of the hippie revolution? ??

Well since solatex is no more the best solution(affordable) is either Diatex 1000 or Diacov both the same but Diacov has heat glue applied to it and the other you use a heat adhesive only applied where you need it so saves a bit of weight. The weight difference between the two is Diatex 1000 is 49g/m² and Diacov is100g/m² so a good weight saving can be had if needed. The best think about it there is no need for using smelly dope, just paint (flexible paint not brittle varnishes) your finish see manufactures details. also with ditex 1000 if you want you can used non shrinking Nitrocellulose for adhesion.

I am surprised it has lasted this long, Ptfe coated fibreglass, Uv get to like most things. Better than the original pvc that was going to be used. bah! well over 50 odd million to build what a millennial statement. 21 years

Where is Michael Fish when you need him, He will put us all at ease with ensuring us it's not a hurricane and to sleep easy!!? what's that 1987 and again down here 1989 worse , many roofs especially shallow pitch ones with no tiles left. If it's going to be that strong a wind stay indoors, it's the flying debris that gets you, had a friend at the time had a branch come through his windscreen and it was a tragic end to a young life and a good chap.

well if you have a horus why not try the new ethos operating system it's core seams to be based on open tx but with a user menu driven interface , got positive feedback so far. See here i am looking to swap to it from opentx on my x12s. i have just going to look at the basic simulator today and see. I have all ready upgraded to the new 'ISRM Upgrade RF Board' which is just a plug in job with a bit of unscrewing first. I have not upgraded the 'para' board as I don't need the blue tooth features it gives (like wireless flashing of archer RX's etc). this upgrade needs a hot air solder gun. all works well and i'm happy

Well the Welsh didn't do any softening up at all. Italy would have been disappointed with that show. or was Ireland that good?

Hi could not edit previous post for some reason but i remembered . I new there was a cheaper version look for Ripmax WOT 4 XL/Xtreme Aerotow Unit A-CFWOT/TOW about £12 i think leeds model shop sells it too.

If you don't want to make one wheelspin models do and make it build it also , but as said before a strong servo and strong jam not mechanism is a must . other sell them but i can't find at the moment

I'd blame Pythagoras, mind you it is all Greek to me too. That second 'and' should be 'but'. ( I was always told to try not to use two many of the same words in a sentence) I hope that helps

Well as Cuban8 says I pretty much do the same, not used an 'after run' oil for many years unless being stored or not going to be flown for a while and its a Cheep 2t oil i find the most important bit is to run the engine dry at the end of the day and store/hang in an upright position. i used to mix my fuel 15% Ml70 oil before you could actually by it off the shelf.(laser 5 i do believe +GoGlo range ) i have over the years concurred all that don't believe in myths, fairy tails and place feelings at to higher a factor and use proper analytical valuations, we all pritty much come to very similar conclusion if not the same. ?

All i can say what after run do you use? because that's the only thing you probably didn't change I have used prosynth for many many years and on lasers too!, also many others in my clubs (probably 99% members do) with no gunge or dirt or running problems and very clean engines with none of that horrible lacquer build up you get from fuels with caster content. Years ago before going to western I used to mix my own fuel with 15% ML70 as It was hard to get no caster fuel with a lower oil content. Never any problems there either and 4t really loved it and my mvvs and supertigers too. So i have concluded that it is caster that's the problem and it was used before my time because there was no other alternative??

here is a link to Mike Shellim does a good review of T16 and also talks about the Frsky new operating system ethos. Good to red through to help with your decision. also a note all the frsky receivers have battery voltage telemetry built in the other sensors use the sbus + even the 4 channel rx will output 16 channels via sbus if needed

I don't know what you budget will stretch to but have you looked at the frsky X20 with its menu driven operating system (ETHOS) much easier to get a grips with than openTx will have to use the newer Rx's which start at £22 for 4/6 channel rx's . I have the Horus x12s upgraded to access very happy (still on opentx). The Futaba T10j is about the same price but rx's and telemtry sensors cost more . both makes have good reliability. there are others to but it can get a bit confusing

Come on life not that simple?

that's probably the best way to go- hack the cowl until you got what you want the use it as a plug to make a mould for a new one. lighter stronger and a better finish. made a custom petrol fuel tank that way recently, took the same time as trolling through the internet trying to find one that fitted my application.

? your observation is good oops bit sarcastic me? Well it's made from chopped strand glass and a resin of some sort which you can not determine by a picture so with alterations use epoxy and woven cloth it will work good. the fact that it is chopped matting doesn't matter as it has cured . also with matting you can get Emulsion bound for Polyester and Vinylester resins and powder bound for epoxy so its all a guess unless you can ask the one that made it I would use the back end of your existing cowl cut off where the yellow stops on the picture of the real one and then with the front bit you have cut off to simulate the manifold/exhaust cover on the real one . then laminate the bits together together.

If in doubt use epoxy as it will stick to itself or polyester will be lighter and stronger, just prep properly(degrease and roughen to key up)

At Higher voltage the said servos will move faster(and try to) that needs more energy to do so. As for lower current... ohm's law would very much disagree the circuit of the servo has a designed in resistance which is fixed, each component does not change it's properties due to the load. The circuit design will be optimize for a given voltage and so be at it's most efficient at that voltage ie, more voltage _more power available and waisted heat, all to a point of something being over stressed and failing.

I got to say i have in the past blamed a bad battery pack for low voltage drop when is use and this turned out to be a ageing switch the cause. so now regularly check the switch and routinely change them. As for going 5 cell there is no need to with a good 4 cell pack and the down side with 5 cells it gives you higher voltage which leads to less duration for the same mA/hr capacity.

Well i have downloaded Any Text To Voice and had a little play with it. I have found it to be much easier to use that ttsautomate that I have been using for a few years now so it will be my default from now on.