Robert Armstrong 2

Posted by Robert Armstrong 2 on 26/04/2019 20:19:24: Help I have a 14SG on version 6.0 software. The Ripmax site shows version 8.0 now out. Can I update direct to v8.0 or do I have to go through v 7.0 first? Would like to avoid two steps if possible. Thanks in advance if anyone knows. Thanks Malcolm. Don't use non-Futaba receivers. Used to on a previous (T8) system but had a couple of odd crashes where the model seemed to stop responding, though post crash tests seemed to show the radio system working normally. Decided the relatively small cost saving was not worth the cost of peace of mind. Even more true now FHSS rxs are available.

Help I have a 14SG on version 6.0 software. The Ripmax site shows version 8.0 now out. Can I update direct to v8.0 or do I have to go through v 7.0 first? Would like to avoid two steps if possible. Thanks in advance if anyone knows.

I have had no problems with DPD and only one problem with RM. I sent a small package using Recorded Delivery to Horizon Hobby for repair (before they moved). I got it back from HH fixed and the RM Trace still said that it had not been delivered. I suppose I should have asked for a refund as I clearly didn't get the service I paid for.

Wheelspin models have the bare airframe for that model. Listed as 'shadow stock'. Most of their aircraft spares seem to be, but I have had good service from them and am very impressed with their spare parts section of the website. Very well organised. The physical shop is a washout for aircraft parts, specialise in cars. Clue is in the name I suppose

Rather tatty Chipmonk and foamie vampire.

Never heard anything from Mark. I sent him a PM cancelling my request for one. I looked it up just now. It's listed as 'unread' in my sent messages box.

The print of the ailerons etc in yellow Rigid Ink PLA didn't come out successfully. Looks under extruded. Oh dear, going to have to calibrate the settings for each roll of filament individually. On the plus side, the yellow pla glues together well with ZAP medium CA and kicker.

Test piece came out bang on the target weight using their recommended S3D settings. Seemed reasonably robust and printed without any problems despite their warning that they dont recommend printing parts separately. I can't fit their S3D factory files onto the print bed of my machine so I am loading individual stls. The first attempt at printing two wing parts together failed with a weak layer in one of the parts only. Thought that I might have bumped the printer so started the print again, Same result, so must be an artefact in the sliced file. That used up the tag end of a roll of PLA so waiting for some more. Will try printing the ailerons rudder etc in yellow, but dont fancy that for the whole airframe.

Downloaded the test piece for the 109 from Thingiverse. I use Simplify3d so the Youtube video guide has the settings, though for an earlier version of S3D, which now has some extra settings available. Interesting to see how long it takes. One almost gotcha; Their version of S3D has speeds in mm/sec. Mine defaults to mm/min.

Was thinking of trying the 109, probably without u/c, to see how well it works on my printer. I was interested by the recent review of the Stearman, but disappointed that it was supplied as a kit of parts from Aerofred.

The model shown on the 3dLabPrint web site seem quite interesting, but the information quoted includes a bed size larger than the bed size of my printer. I have emailed 3DLabPrint to ask whether the quoted size is the requirement for the largest individual part or whether its for a collection of parts. So far they have not replied (about a week). I have a Flashforge with a bed size 230X150X150. They seem to have developed everything for the Prusa I3, which has a bed size closer to square. Height is OK on mine. Anyone know anything about the part sizes for any of the planes?

My wife and I went for the first time early September. I really enjoyed it. The pool area is nicely landscaped and supplied with chairs etc (and a bar close by) so if your partner likes sitting round a pool its great for them too. While we were there everyone else we spoke to had been there before (mostly more than once). Spiros said that about 80% of his business is repeat customers. Food was very good too.

I used the 'report an issue' feature in the Pocketmags app, which sent an email to them. To my surprise, I got an email back within a couple of hours to say that they had 'added the issue to my account'. Pleased that they fixed it so quickly, slightly worried by the terminology that the issue may recur with the next issue. Wonder if there is a wider problem? Change of year on the issue not matching subscription details in some way?

I tried the option 'Iam an an existing subscriber etc.." and successfully logged in. It let me download a back issue, but still wants me to pay for the current issue. On iPad. I can access the current digital issue from my laptop OK.

Problem with Pocketmags. Not the first either. The new issue showed up but it wants me to buy it. Tried logging in again. Success reported. Still wants money. My subscription doesn't run out till Feb 2018. Though I am never sure whether that means the February Issue (which comes out in January) or the issue which comes out in February (the March issue). I probably ask every year when I renew, but the n forget.

My 14SG has started switching on at the RF Power menu. This is normally reached by switching on with the finger on the centre of the rotary dial. I am not touching that; in fact have switched on with the model flat on a table, only touched to turn on power then no contact. Doesn't seem to be a configurable option from the system menu. Any suggestions?

In my opinion, Malcolm's book is a mandatory purchase for anyone who buys a 14SG. The Futaba manual tells you in nit picking detail how to adjust each parameter on every screen without giving any indication of what the effect of the changes is or why you might want to use them. Some things are obvious, of course, but I spent a lot of time head scratching and trial and error fiddling before getting the book. The neutral point setting was one item that puzzled me for ages. Judging from this thread. Malcolm should also be subsidised by the Amazon helpline management; he seems to be doing quite a bit of their work for them

I have used PETG from both Technology Outlet and Rigid Ink. The (blue) PETG from TO worked pretty well at the suggested temperatures for extruder and bed. From Rigid Ink i first tried a 10m sample of translucent orange, which worked OK. I bought a 1kg spool of opaque white which has seemed to need different temperatures and hasn't been as good as the sample (for me anyway). PETG seems to need higher retraction setting than PLA or ABS and I am not sure whether Fan ON or OFF is better. My printer does not support partial fan settings. Good luck.

How is the forecast for this Sunday looking for the event? Do you have a deadline for the go/no go decision? I am a member at DRCF so should be there whichever day is chosen but a friend from Kent is hoping to attend and will probably need to book the appropriate Monday out.

The jigsaws in the AAIB hangar are put together with sadness for the most part I would imagine. I had a tour a long time ago. An interesting but melancholy place. Still dominated by the Lockerbie 747 when I was there.

Thanks very much. Hope so. It will get tried at one of the Leek & Moorland sites in the Peak District. Will post result. Thanks again.

Fuselage 105 cm, span 126cm Thanks

Bought a PSS Me262. Built from unknown plan (or possibly own design) by someone now deceased. No information on c0fg. Will 25% of mean aerodynamic chord back from half span position give a safe start point? Advice gratefully received, hopefully.

Tried the rigid ink PETG myself. Just a sample so far. Printed a little turtle from thingiverse for my granddaughter. Came out nice. Also used some of their PLA. No luck trying the PVA support filament. Strings badly. Might work better if I could set retraction for the support separately to the main filament. Good service and helpful responses to questions from rigid ink. The clog was rather odd when I sorted it. The hot end itself seemed to be clear but a piece was melted onto the top of the hot end, further up than the PTFE, and then broken off the rest of the filament. Wouldn't remelt to reattach to filament. Pushed out easily when the hot end was out of the print head.

Posted by John Stainforth on 21/06/2017 16:18:54: The thread then has to be tied around the lead connector in such a way that the connector is not sticking out sideways, and then gently pulling the connector and lead through the ribs. I find this usually goes surprisingly easily. Tie round the wire then sticky tape the thread to the servo plug face works for me. Servo lead locks or heatshrink wrap if there is an extension join inside the wing.