MaL

I have just replaced my soldering station coz the old one went bang, it was a 998 copy. I have bought a 898D to replace it mainly because it has an actual off switch on the back of the unit that does remove all power from the internal transformer....unlike the on/off switches on the front of the panel that only switch off power to the iron and hot air gun leaving the transformer humming away inside. My big iron for serious stuff is a monster that glows red and gets so hot you can't hold the wooden handle after 10 minutes - I reckon it's about 160 Watts.

Posted by Geoff Sleath on 29/08/2016 12:02:49: It's not so much the power rating (though that is important) as its mass. The physical size gives a soldering iron a lot of thermal capacity so it doesn't cool quickly when you heat up a big piece of metal to soldering temperature. Remember the joint should be hot enough to melt the solder away from the iron itself - you don't apply the solder to the iron (except to tin it) but to the joint. So if that Maplin's 100 watt iron is big and heavy I'm sure it will be OK. When I worked at GEC in the 1960s the people soldering the joints on telephone exchanges, which had to be very high quality, used irons heated in a gas flame rather than electric ones. It surprised me when I walked through that department. So all you need is a big lump of copper and a gas cooker Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 29/08/2016 12:03:52 When I was a T2A I had an electric iron...I recall the tip quite quickly took on the shape of the tags on the MDF as they were as soft as could be....ahhh...the smell of lead fumes takes me back........

Better than being on the top shelf....

Also of concern is the fact that when using the 2.5mm or 3.5mm audio jack plugs as shown as 502-855 is that they can easily short between tip and sleeve as you insert the plug into the socket... not such a good thing when dealing with a power connection. The DC power type of plug and socket as shown as 502-712A and 502-765 cannot short between pin and sleeve when inserting the plug so are a much better choice for this application, however, the contact between the battery +ve and the receiver +ve can be dodgy if subject to vibration and/or dirt as the contact area is both small and just nickel plated. Maybe OK for a glider but I wouldn't use one for a powered model.

All the petrol heads at my old club soldered a nipple on the vent and ran a fuel tube back through the firewall into the fuselage where the atmospheric pressure varied the least and there would be no venturi effect on the end of the tube.

I'm not sure I would consider a 3D printed spinner as having sufficient integrity for safe operation.

I think I would go get a new email address just for the advert and have the best of both worlds.....

As for the max situation, assuming the accidents are related, and assuming the mcas is to blame, clearly there is something about the configuration of the aircraft just after takeoff, combined with other factors that are a perfect storm which confuses the system and causes it to over react. It has to be something related to takeoff configuration otherwise we would expect to see accidents at different phases of flight. What this issue is, and why it apparently cannot be countered is likely going to be the main focus of the investigation. There is an explanation of the factors surrounding MCAS here

Posted by Nigel R on 12/03/2019 10:24:02: Which aerodynamic problem does the electronic fix sort out? The elevator trim being driven to its maximum down deflection could be considered to be an aerodynamic problem if the aircraft is in an otherwise stable condition. The software fix is supposed to be designed to limit the deflection throws I believe.

I never empty the models tank, just bung the breather while transporting to prevent syphoning. Be careful not to empty the carb of fuel for any length of time as that will lead to the flap valve sticking, necessitating a strip down to free it off. I carried, and always used, a starting stick (wooden pole with a rubber sock). Choke on, ignition on throttle at max, flick until it kicks - it wont run, just kick a couple of times - open the choke, close the throttle to 1 click open and flick till it starts (usually 3 or 4 flicks), but always concentrate on what you are doing!!! always worked for me over several different engines Model retention was a webbing strap wrapped around the tail and two large ground pegs and then get behind the prop ASAP. Enjoy the petrol experience.

Build pics here

What benefit would a titanium alloy nozzle give over a plain and simple one?..... what are normal ones made from? nickel plated steel?

Posted by Gary Manuel on 13/02/2019 22:11:56: I got a friend with a 3D printer to print me a set of parts to make myself an incidence meter - details HERE. The Android app I use is called "Clinometer + Bubble Level", which I think is one of the better spirit level type apps. I've even invested a couple of quid to add "relative" angle measurement and measurements of angles using the built in camera. The App should suit your needs perfectly. The problem with 3D printers and making things with holes is that the printer will tend to make the holes too small due in part to over-extrusion. Compounding the problem you had with your particular stl files is the hole in the incidencemeter_pince.stl is set to be only 7.9mm wide x 8.5mm tall. All the other parts with square holes were set to be 8.0mm x 8.0mm. In order to build a bit of clearance into all these stl's I have edited them to all have 8.5mm x 8.5mm square holes - that should make them a better fit on 8mm square ali tube. Modified STL's available here **LINK** for 30 days......get them while they are still there

I think Andrew has the answer, it is to center the wheel as it retracts and the closed loop linkage goes slack so the wheel does not jam on the fuselage sides as it extends again. It could also keep the closed loop clevis' from crossing during retraction. Edited By MaL on 10/02/2019 12:05:27

Ah good... but now your enter key is sticking