MaL
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Everything posted by MaL
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I have just replaced my soldering station coz the old one went bang, it was a 998 copy. I have bought a 898D to replace it mainly because it has an actual off switch on the back of the unit that does remove all power from the internal transformer....unlike the on/off switches on the front of the panel that only switch off power to the iron and hot air gun leaving the transformer humming away inside. My big iron for serious stuff is a monster that glows red and gets so hot you can't hold the wooden handle after 10 minutes - I reckon it's about 160 Watts.
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Posted by Geoff Sleath on 29/08/2016 12:02:49: It's not so much the power rating (though that is important) as its mass. The physical size gives a soldering iron a lot of thermal capacity so it doesn't cool quickly when you heat up a big piece of metal to soldering temperature. Remember the joint should be hot enough to melt the solder away from the iron itself - you don't apply the solder to the iron (except to tin it) but to the joint. So if that Maplin's 100 watt iron is big and heavy I'm sure it will be OK. When I worked at GEC in the 1960s the people soldering the joints on telephone exchanges, which had to be very high quality, used irons heated in a gas flame rather than electric ones. It surprised me when I walked through that department. So all you need is a big lump of copper and a gas cooker Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 29/08/2016 12:03:52 When I was a T2A I had an electric iron...I recall the tip quite quickly took on the shape of the tags on the MDF as they were as soft as could be....ahhh...the smell of lead fumes takes me back........
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Better than being on the top shelf....
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Also of concern is the fact that when using the 2.5mm or 3.5mm audio jack plugs as shown as 502-855 is that they can easily short between tip and sleeve as you insert the plug into the socket... not such a good thing when dealing with a power connection. The DC power type of plug and socket as shown as 502-712A and 502-765 cannot short between pin and sleeve when inserting the plug so are a much better choice for this application, however, the contact between the battery +ve and the receiver +ve can be dodgy if subject to vibration and/or dirt as the contact area is both small and just nickel plated. Maybe OK for a glider but I wouldn't use one for a powered model.
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All the petrol heads at my old club soldered a nipple on the vent and ran a fuel tube back through the firewall into the fuselage where the atmospheric pressure varied the least and there would be no venturi effect on the end of the tube.
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I'm not sure I would consider a 3D printed spinner as having sufficient integrity for safe operation.
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I think I would go get a new email address just for the advert and have the best of both worlds.....
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As for the max situation, assuming the accidents are related, and assuming the mcas is to blame, clearly there is something about the configuration of the aircraft just after takeoff, combined with other factors that are a perfect storm which confuses the system and causes it to over react. It has to be something related to takeoff configuration otherwise we would expect to see accidents at different phases of flight. What this issue is, and why it apparently cannot be countered is likely going to be the main focus of the investigation. There is an explanation of the factors surrounding MCAS here
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Posted by Nigel R on 12/03/2019 10:24:02: Which aerodynamic problem does the electronic fix sort out? The elevator trim being driven to its maximum down deflection could be considered to be an aerodynamic problem if the aircraft is in an otherwise stable condition. The software fix is supposed to be designed to limit the deflection throws I believe.
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I never empty the models tank, just bung the breather while transporting to prevent syphoning. Be careful not to empty the carb of fuel for any length of time as that will lead to the flap valve sticking, necessitating a strip down to free it off. I carried, and always used, a starting stick (wooden pole with a rubber sock). Choke on, ignition on throttle at max, flick until it kicks - it wont run, just kick a couple of times - open the choke, close the throttle to 1 click open and flick till it starts (usually 3 or 4 flicks), but always concentrate on what you are doing!!! always worked for me over several different engines Model retention was a webbing strap wrapped around the tail and two large ground pegs and then get behind the prop ASAP. Enjoy the petrol experience.
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Build pics here
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What benefit would a titanium alloy nozzle give over a plain and simple one?..... what are normal ones made from? nickel plated steel?
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Posted by Gary Manuel on 13/02/2019 22:11:56: I got a friend with a 3D printer to print me a set of parts to make myself an incidence meter - details HERE. The Android app I use is called "Clinometer + Bubble Level", which I think is one of the better spirit level type apps. I've even invested a couple of quid to add "relative" angle measurement and measurements of angles using the built in camera. The App should suit your needs perfectly. The problem with 3D printers and making things with holes is that the printer will tend to make the holes too small due in part to over-extrusion. Compounding the problem you had with your particular stl files is the hole in the incidencemeter_pince.stl is set to be only 7.9mm wide x 8.5mm tall. All the other parts with square holes were set to be 8.0mm x 8.0mm. In order to build a bit of clearance into all these stl's I have edited them to all have 8.5mm x 8.5mm square holes - that should make them a better fit on 8mm square ali tube. Modified STL's available here **LINK** for 30 days......get them while they are still there
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I think Andrew has the answer, it is to center the wheel as it retracts and the closed loop linkage goes slack so the wheel does not jam on the fuselage sides as it extends again. It could also keep the closed loop clevis' from crossing during retraction. Edited By MaL on 10/02/2019 12:05:27
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Ah good... but now your enter key is sticking
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How about a simple microswitch operated by an undercarriage leg when it reaches the fully up position?
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Ken, -There were several 'drone sightings' reported to the police, some of those sightings were 'confirmed', however, these sightings were from 'members of the public' who, as the police are acutely aware, are not normally very reliable witnesses, which was the thought behind the "not sure there was a drone" statement from the police the other day.
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I really don't care how difficult the job is.... the courier service / mail service is contracted to deliver the package to the correct address in a specified time scale and if they can't manage that then they should be held accountable. just the same as any other contract.
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Posted by Martian on 12/11/2018 20:32:21: Posted by John Rudd on 12/11/2018 16:13:53: Posted by Martian on 12/11/2018 15:26:23: Having made the mistake of buying a low priced Chinese mini lathe i found it totally impractical. Martian, you have had a bad experience with "a low priced Chinese mini lathe" Care to expand on that please? I find my Sieg lathe very practical, especially for making small parts where using the bigger lathes at my disposal a little cumbersome....Horses for courses.... Maybe its not as bad as I suggested but it is only 24w 12v so will stall if not careful chuck is not easy to centre I cannot get the cutting tools anywhere it is this one plus it could do with a speed controller and no instructions Waste of space and money. I even tried a 4 jaw chuck because the 'self centering' 3 jaw chuck was so far out of true it was useless. That 'lathe' will just about turn plastic and if you spring for a live centre will just about allow you to drill a centre in ali - providing you can get the work piece centered in the chuck... really...don't waste your time or money... it will be £135 down the drain. I tried fitting a meaty brushless motor and designed and built a load-compensated speed controller for the one i had but it still couldn't cut sh1t...... used it once and now it gathers dust. there is a reason a proper 'hobby' lathe costs £500 and the plastic toy ones from China cost £135!! If you want to build the controller Martin I could probably find the arduino sketch and schematic. It uses a 3S lipo and an ESC to power the C4250-600 Turnigy brushless motor.. it works quite well at maintaining the requested revolutions.... but the lathe still cant cut for toffee
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Although perhaps ebay is not the best place to buy a replacement transmitter........;
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Write your reg number on a piece of paper and keep it in your wallet......not only will it help you out at Lidl but then when someone steals your wallet they will try for ages to use the reg number as your card pin.
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I use a copy shop
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HK have quite a range now,
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Posted by onetenor on 26/09/2018 04:35:39: I've been using an unbranded Depron glue from Ebay?Amazon. Comes in a plain white tube and cheap as chips. Seems equally as good as Uhu etc Takes a bit of patience to search for it . Give it a go it's worth it. This it? **LINK**, It seems to work well.
