leccyflyer

I opted for the made-up Lipo pack. With my DX-9 I typically charge with the battery out of the transmitter, as the original DX9 charger stopped working. For this one I'll swap out the XT60 and replace it with my preferred 4mm gold connectors, but will probably charge the Tx using that USB charge lead, maybe with the occasional balance charge out of the Tx.

The loose cell battery tray is a throwback to the 70's IMO. The negative lead actually runs inside the battery tray and in use would be sandwiched between the cell and the bottom of the battery tray.

Hi Pat The only connection from the 2s1p 5000mah battery to the tx is via the balance lead. The XT60 connector is redundant other than for charging. I'll be removing that. The supplied battery tray for the loose 18650 cells just has the balance lead, no XT60 connector. The instructions state that charging is through the USB charge port and a lead is supplied.

Have just opened my new Radiomaster TX16S and can see what others said about the build quality -in that it certainly doesn't feel as robust as a Futaba or Spektrum - but all the switches I could ever need are there and in the right place. The screen, on the other hand, is beyond superb-fantastically clear and easy to read. I'm very impressed with the screen. I opted for the 2s1p 5000mah lipo power pack rather than the loose pair of lipos and the Tx came with a carry bag, strap, screen protector, spare springs, USB cable and an SD card already fitted. Incredible for the very modest cost. Excellent service from the UK supplier too - delivered within less than 24 hours. Manual is a bit thin, but says that a more comprehensive version is available online.

It was your confidence in the product which convinced me Ken Brian Cullen one-1 ah-Ken-Fine-Well-dept ?

Thanks to all who have contributed to this very interesting discussion. I've just taken the plunge and ordered the Radiomaster TX16S from a UK supplier. Prepared for a steep Open TX learning curve. ?

Congratulations Tim - you must be very happy with that successful maiden flight. ?

Eric - what size are the stringers?

Those voice alerts and a decent voice timer are two of the things I really miss when using the FF9 rather than my DX9.

Thanks gents, I'll have a look at that option.?

I currently have my models split between most of my power models which use Spektrum, on my DX9 and DX7 transmitters and my gliders and a few powered models which use a Futaba FF9, with an aftermarket Frsky module. In terms of receivers those models are all using the older Frsky protocols -including FRSKY V4-FR-II, D8R-II, V8-FR-II and V8-R7-II - a substantial number(>20) of receivers Having got used to all the advantages of my DX-9 - voice alerts, ease of programming and model set up, model match, easy timer set ups and capability for telemetry - I'm in the market for a replacement tx for the FRSKY equipped models- mostly for gliders, but also for some smaller powered models. I'm aware of changing protocols WRT EU vs UK vs International specs for these systems and the "grandfather rights" which enable the continued use of their older receivers, but do the users of this kit have any recommendations for newer transmitters, with a bit more to offer than the venerable FF9 and module? With a large number of these older receivers, which are working fine, if a more modern Frsky or compatible tx doesn't support those receivers I probably wouldn't bother, but I'd like to find out what is out there.

Yep, that what I do, then trim the leads back to a stub, which I then put heatshrink over. Then off to the tip they go.

You mean that they didn't instantly puff up on Day Four? You WERE lucky! ?

Battle of Britain on Paramount at 6:15 this evening. ?

I've got the Ju88 and already have a couple of Bf110s - a foam build and a Flair kit - but I'd definitely sign up for a Mosquito if Richard decides to do one.

Richard's excellent kits had flown completely under my radar, until seeing them on this forum. Now I've got four of them in the kit mountain, the Spitfire, P-51B, Ju88 and Hurricane. It's been quite a few years since I've built a kit, as I haven't really had the facilities and have been mostly doing refurbs, ARTFs and my beloved foamie warbirds. My pal Derek keeps telling me to get the Ju88 on the bench and one of the four will definitely be my first build in the new workshop. It's just a question of which one. Looking at the weather I think that could be it for this flying season, so I'll maybe make a start in the next few weeks.

I posted my reply before seeing any details of your home brew discharger, so I'm not referring to that, merely agreeing with i12fly. As you say, to each his own and I don't routinely discharge unused packs if I'm likely to be flying the next weekend, or even the weekend after. If I know that I won't be flying for a month or so then I'll probably take steps to take unused packs down to 3.85v/cell. For me, the most obvious way to do that is to emulate how those packs would be discharged in use, taking a few minutes each. I don't have any worries in running a model whilst restraining it in a model stand for a few minutes, nor do I have any youngsters about. I'd be more worried about having a heat source sitting on the workbench for hours, discharging multiple packs - I wouldn't want to leave such an apparatus unattended indoors personally.

Spot on - we're each equipped with very efficient dischargers with wings, if you really must discharge your packs. As you said the packs rebound slightly once they come off load - you can connect a battery checker to the balance leads and model the cell voltage during the motor run. It's important to ensure adequate motor cooling and restrain the model properly.

Easily arranged to make it impossible to accidentally connect a pack to itself. Just make the lead with the male positive pin a different length than the negative female plug, so that they do not touch and then put a wrap of tape, or heatshrink to keep them apart, making it impossible to connect the two together. I fit a short length of blue Sullivan snake outer over the male pin to be extra safe. When the pack is charged it gets a green one to show it's charged.

Many of my flying pals are using 4mm gold bullet connectors - they are easy to solder properly, highly flexible in terms of adding parallel connections or tapping in UBecs or by-pass connections, easy serial connections, low resistance, space saving and very cost effective. For a short time in the noughties I considered swapping over to Deans, but I just didn't get on with them.

What Don said - but remember - ONE LEAD AT A TIME, ? Don't cut through both wires at the same time. I like to secure one lead, still attached to the old plug to the battery with a rubber band, so there is no chance of any short circuit.

7pm on channel 4 tonight is 80 years of the Lancaster if anyone is interested

Please, please, please do continue with that policy to not delete any threads simply because some people think that since their particular question has been answered that means the thread is no longer useful.

Nice work Pat - I know what you mean, I miss my late lamented Silhouette too.

You're not wrong Masher ? I definitely do have some good pals through this hobby - these boys couldn't have been more welcoming since I've moved to Scotland for good. Jim's models are always fantastic and very workable scale models and I'm lucky to have several from previous club swapmeets. The Falco is a follow on from Jim's Gladiator - featured earlier in the thread.