MattyB

Good idea. Before doing that though now I would definitely try a totally new model memory and setup the ailerons from scratch and see if they still behave the same.

Yes, servo pot failurew is absolutely a possibility, though the chances of that ha[ppening in two different servos at precisely the same time (within mins of each other having passed a pre-flight check would seem very low.

We are talking about customers of estate agents here who will obviously have given their consent for the flights in question. My point is that given that is the case any drone shots required should e possible from within the ground of the property in question without the machine going BVLOS. So there is no need for any dispensation for such flying.

Wow, and I thought mechanical build quality and bullet proof reliability were supposed to be the given with Futaba that justified the higher price? I’ve never had any issue similar to that on >10 years of flying the “Challenger brands” from China!

In theory yes, but why would you need tBVLOS when you could just stand on the threshold of the property with your sap otter and do such a flight easily within VLOS?

Highly unlikely imo given he got so far into the flight before experiencing the issue. Personally for such a simple model I would just set it up again from scratch in a clean model memory as that willmau be e simpler than trying to find a setup gremlin in the Tx. Alternatively, have you d the servo Subtrin values in whatever menu covers that?

Also check the fail safe springs by switching off the radio and seeing where the controls move to. Do the ailerons drop in that situation?

Maybe you had a flapeton mix setup and switched it in by accident? Is it reproducible now on the ground? . Have you gone through all the mixers in your Tx setup? And have you range checked the system since the incident?

I agree and certainly no dispensation would be given for BVLOS ops for s for getting pics does a house sale as there is absolutely reason for that being required in order to complete the task!

Completely agree. We do not want our bed idiots operating in this way and giving our hobby a bad name. In the eyes of the general public.

Probably true at a practical level, but doesn’t mean that illegal operations should be condoned. The key point here is that the operators in question have all signed up that they understand and will fly in accordance with the drone code, but aren’t doing so - that places their and all other model flyers access to lower level airspace at potential risk in the long run if it’s seen to continue. We really don’t want any more ineffectual or over-reaching regs imposed on ius please just becausea a few idiots don’t think the rules apply to them.

Given the Pandora of this model for now I would just tweak the differential settings the Tx at for the maiden so that you don’t see any +ve or -ve diff at the surface. It may not be the optimal mechanical setup like that but you n at least get the maiden done without raising with bending up a new set of linkages.

Agreed or even just a simple photo would do!

Probably just some negative diff in the Tx I am guessing but we need a pic of the linkage first to truly understand

Just take a pic of the linkage and add it that will really help us. To know whais going on

What chargers is it that you have currently? The final cutoff voltage may be tweakable

Hi everyone, just wanted to share that I have done a homework project to try and pass on all the things I have learnt from this experience to other patients who suffer a neurological injury: https://tinyurl.com/neurorehabguide

My OT who came to do a therapy session with me this week told me I am not allowed to t to nose 2 to make it easier, as she thinks the finger motor control needed for my left hand to do the elevator is excellent therapy!! 😊

No upset caused it is just with my only partially functioning post -strike brain it is hard to spot stuff like the start date of a thread so I do think the forum ought to have features that actively prevent very old threads n brought back to life! As many other forums do.

LiFe 2S pack is normally a great option , but make sure your servos are rated for that voltage!

Quite right Leccy. What Nigel posted above about an operator iID being required to own a model aircraft over 250g or one <250g with a camera is. totally incorrect and constitutes somewhat unhelpful guesswork on his part in my view. Nowhere in the law does it say that. You clearly must have an Op ID if operating said aircraft, but it’s not a legal requirement in order to own such a model otherwise the owner would be breaking the law the moment they bought a model and it came into their possession. The Drone code is pretty clear on this in my view. It’s the act of operation that requires the valid id to be acquired and put on the model.

A great example of “recovering to your t horizon as a fighter pilot would say. Truly impressive piloting,

Mods, can this topic be pinned to the top of the beginners forum and the title changed to "What you need to fly legally in the UK"? I think that would be helpful.

There is no such thing as a license to fly model aircraft. What you do need to do is get a flyer ID and register as an operator with the CAA. This guidance from the BMFA should help... https://rcc.bmfa.uk/caa-registration/dmares-quick-start-guide. This should also help from the CAA. https://register-drones.caa.co.uk/drone-code.

The method I was taught and linked above was to soak the paper in water first to ensure good and even shrinkage as it dries. It's always worked for me: Cut your brown paper sheets out 1/2 to 1 inch oversize compared to the panels (you're going to do top and bottom together); Put the paper panels in the bath to soak for a few minutes; Dilute your white (PVA) glue - opinions differ on this, but depending on the use and the weight/toughness balance you want, it can be anywhere between 2:1 (glue:water) and 1:2. Add some food colouring if you want to make it easier to see where you've wetted out; Pull the panels out and leave them over the side of the bath to dry a little - 10 mins should do it; Paste a good covering of the glue/water mix on one side of your panel (I usually do the top first so the overlap is on the bottom surface) - be generous, most of it's coming off later...; Place the first panel onto the wing, ensuring it's accurately positioned - this is the tricky bit which requires roughly eight arms to achieve consistently! Apply plenty more glue/water mix, and work it in with a soft brush (an old shaving brush is ideal!); Take a smooth credit card, and gently squeeze out the excess glue towards the LE, TE and tip. How much you do this is up to you - leaving more glue in increases weight, but improves ding resistance; Wipe off any excess white glue at the tips and panel edges; Now fold the excess paper around the tips and LE (leave it dangling aft of the TE). Snip the paper with scissors as required you need it to go round a compound curve at the tip; Re-wet the overlaps with glue mix and scrape off as above (if required); Now flip the panel over and do the other side, except you don't need to take the paper round the LE or tip - as long as it has overlaps with the paper from the other side by 1cm or so, you should be fine. Work plenty of glue into that overlap area though! Leave it to dry overnight in the vertical position (propped up in the drained out bath is fine, if your other half will allow it!). The paper will shrink dramatically, but won't warp the wing because you did both sides together... didn't you?!! The finished wing can be primed and painted, or just cover with an iron on film - all films work better on this surface than naked foam or wood, since it's deeply impregnated with PVA which is reactivated by the heat of the iron. This effect does fade over time though - I recommend covering your wings within a week of brown papering them. Photos of my first attempt (on an HP60) are available here... that was somewhat unfortunate, as I later had to remove the paper (it broke our EPP60 racing rules ). I've done this subsequently though over EPP and blue foam - both were a great success. Weight increase for the 60" HP60 was ~75g (2.6oz), and the torsional strength it gives is amazing considering how low tech the materials are, though it's fairly weak in compression.