FlyinBrian

Skippers What model is it and what type is it? RC glider, FF sport etc. I believe Oracover do a lightweight film that may be better if its a small lightweight model. Re adhering to the previously doped wood - If it was doped long ago you should be OK as all the solvents will have gone from the dope, I would still use as low a heat as you can get away with and get the film on as tight as possible before final shrinking.

Do a search for Futaba charge lead on Ebay, I just got a spare for my T14SG

If indeed we are talking servo extension leads and unless you are talking very long runs for very powerful servos you would not need anything larger than 20AWG. I have flown models with 1 Metre ext leads with Hitec 7955 (24KG) servos using 20AWG extn leads. More and clearer info would help us help you more ie distance involved, servos used etc. You may well be talking about battery to ESC or ESC to motor leads????

"My first 27MHz Fleet set would blow something inside if you operated it for too long with the aerial down and my model would also usually fall out of the sky if it flew past another 27MHz transmitter." Ah yes "Flitter Flutter Fleet" Having said that they did become reliable and we had many in my club at the time.

Nigel Take a look at the "Super Aeromaster" plan on Outerzone, My OS91 / ASP 91s had no problems fitting. My first (original) AM used an HP61F and later an OS61FSR they also fitted OK. I believe some parts such as the canopy may still be available from Great Planes. Edited By FlyinBrian on 22/05/2020 09:01:42

Got mine yesterday, had a quick peruse in the small room this morning.

I flew Aerobatics at the Nats in the mid 70s probably 75 with an "Aeromaster" biplane, placed in the midfield somewhere. The following year I returned with a Matt "Superstar" and placed below my efforts with the Aeromaster.

You can either sell it as an Auction lot or a "Buy it Now" at whatever price you feel is fair. Have a look at similar kits on Ebay and BMFA classifieds to get an idea of selling prices - some ask stupid prices for complete unused Flair kits.

Posted by Bob Cotsford on 18/05/2020 09:50:45: I did my Panic with epoxy in the end as the postman dropped of the Z-Poxy finishing resin I had on order. Three layers of 25gm cloth and as you say, it barely needs sanding it blends in so well. A quick swipe to take off the stray strands and that's it. Brian, did you have any problems with unwanted bubbles using film over PVA/glasscloth? I've used PolyC with glass but only with a paint finish. It was probably a couple of weeks between glass/pvaing and film covering, the film (Profilm) went on without too many problems but I kept the heat as low as possible while covering.

Went to the field yesterday afternoon with my MPX Heron, put it together and checked the radio operation, no right aileron!, found the control horn had pulled out of the Elapor aileron. Only a couple of others at the field and no one had cyano with them. Had a bit of a chat then went home. All fixed now, hope this weather holds Edited By FlyinBrian on 21/05/2020 18:01:13

I have had a similar situation swopping Hitec servo for a futaba, the futaba arm fits the hitec quite well but will slip uder load. Overall Futaba's 25 tooth spline is IMHO the best idea as by rotating the arm 90 deg on the spline you can finely adjust the centre position with minimum use of sub trims. Having said that I use mainly Hitec purely because I like and trust them.

I have bought spares from Central Hobbies in the USA at what seemed reasonable prices. Dont know if the do servicing / repairs themselves but maybe worth a try. Central Hobbies

Does anyone have any idea what the numbers used in Peter's designs stood for? eg 363, 364 etc

I have never used spats on my models as I have never had a flying site smooth enough for them to last beyond one flight

John, may your son return to full health quickly and all power to him and you in getting the compensation deserved. I trust the white van man was insured!

Nigel - I am impressed by that wing joint Re: the aileron servo, its a bit late to suggest this but I have found it useful to use two servos in separate rx channels to allow mixing of flaps with elevator, this tightens the looping radius, only needs about c15% mix.on my JR DSX9 I have used two servos on models with torque rods such as you are using simply by installing two servos in the centre of the wing and using each separately to drive a single aileron. I have used diluted PVA to cover a model with glass fibre, I think it was Resin W and it was fine to sand, I shirked the painting though and finished off with Profilm, I used a quite low heat while covering and it went on well

I have an original "Whatmeter" bought in the 90's from West London Models, cost about £55 IIRC. I have never had reason to doubt it's reliability though I have never been able to double check using any other method except "Motorcalc" which is usually in the same ball park but seems to read on the high side.   Re: BT / GPO telephones. I was working on "Subs Apps" maintenance in the 70s in a mainly rural area which co-incidentally was also the area where my club field was located. It's amazing how quick faults could be fixed on a nice day to leave space for a couple of hours at the field. Edited By FlyinBrian on 18/05/2020 08:00:09

Mike Does the powered model balance on the same CG as the glider? I guess the powered version flies faster than the glider version? Stable flight - straight and level - occurs at a certain speed and state of trim, if you increase speed the model will climb and vice versa. More so if the wing uses a lifting section. I have a "Sharkface" (Clark Y ish wing section) it has about 5 deg down thrust but will only fly level at one speed, bang open the throttle and it first dives slightly due to the down thrust then climbs like a mad thing.and will even loop if left to itself. You can mix a little downtrim with throttle but this can catch you out if you are not careful.

"Having said all that most people reckon DSMX is better than DSM2." In as much as it complies with the European specs and is a true Frequency Hopping protocol whereas DSM2 tx's searched for two free frequencies on switch on and having found them did not hop. DSMX - Almost certainly better - but I have used a JR DSX9 operating on DSM2 for over 10 years without issue and although I also now have a Futaba 14TG with FAAST and FAASTEST protocols the DSX9 .still feels solid and reliable.

Impressed with the moulds

The wheels look OK

Sorry double post Edited By FlyinBrian on 15/05/2020 09:13:03

Posted by Nigel R on 07/05/2020 14:32:41: Love the black and white pictures tosh. Could be a r real homebuilt buzzing the strip. I'll be very happy if mine comes in under 6-1/2lbs. You'd probably need about 900w to equal an older crossflow sixty. I recall and engine test of an Enya 60, one of the last X flow two strokes, its bhp was 1.0 about 700 - 750 watts so 900 should equal a good schnurle engine from the early 70''s. My first had a HP61F which was plenty.

Just one more photo.

Nigel, such a colour scheme makes orientation easier for my aged peepers. BTW those checkers underneath are not patterned film, the base colour is yellow and all the red squares were individually cut and applied. Once you have glassed the wings please load test them, I have a vague 40 year old+ memory of a club-mate who used glass tissue having the wing fold in flight right at the join. I look forward to seeing yours finished.