Mark H75

Hi all, bit late to the party. I really like the look if this model; are there any plans available as I've had a clearout and I must have thrown them away. Mark

Just normal glass and cleaner nowadays; I've tried various concoctions and ratios including meths, Isopropyl, washing up liquid etc, but glass cleaner seems to to the job. I use blue roll paper as I buy it in bulk for use around the workshop. Edited By Mark H75 on 17/09/2020 19:39:48

Put it out of its misery

You raise a good point Re. companion. I have found it to be flaky with respect to simulation compared to testing the functionality on a real Tx. The last time I used it (using code 2.3.7) it was doing the inverse of what I wanted; tried it on my real Tx and worked as expected. As David mentions, there's 1001 ways of doing things in OpenTx, with that in mind, I generally follow Painless360 and Richard Mrázek on youtube for my simple(ton) requirements.

Many thanks, seems like removing what's left is the only way forward

I have a tatty looking Irvine 53, does anyone have any recommendations as to whether the casting can be repainted, and if so, what type of paint would you recommend? Thanks Mark

A motor and firewall decided to consciously uncouple mid-loop

I had trouble getting the scale of the drone. Here's another picture, quite a beefy unit

Hi Barrie, what software are you using? Mark

Posted by Christopher Morris 2 on 29/03/2020 14:03:54: Posted by Bruce Collinson on 29/03/2020 13:16:27: What’s wrong with purpose made pushrod, with thread on one end, Z bend on the other? Fairly inexpensive from all the usual UK suppliers, M2, 2.5 and 3 freely available, as are locknuts for additional security. If one end of the rod is fixed, e.g. Z bend, it can’t rotate anyway. Agree with Gangster re variable thread sizes. My preference is for relatively long clevises, Kavan e.g., aiming to have the entire clevises thread filled by the rod thread and if they get too short I make up another one. Then it’s threadlocked and has fuel tube over the clevises arms pushed close to the control horn to prevent springing off. The only failure I’ve had was clevises from an ARTF Yak where the pins were weak, luckily failing prior to maddening, so I threw them all out. But 2mm plain rods are no problem. Maybe i'm not looking in the right places. BTC The main problem was finding a UK shop that sold 800mm & longer 2mm rods with a thread. But plain 2mm rods are no problem. Might be unlucky in where i am looking. Edited By Christopher Morris 2 on 29/03/2020 14:05:19 Edited By Christopher Morris 2 on 29/03/2020 14:07:23 I've used these guys before to get 1 metre lengths **LINK** so I can make custom lengths and cut a thread at both ends.

Posted by MattyB on 26/03/2020 14:34:05: Here you go - the cheap dischargers are available from here, and there is an RCGroups thread on how to connect them up in parallel to create larger discharger. If you buy all the stuff online it is only an evening or twos work of soldering and cutting the wood and you have a nice little rig. Edited By MattyB on 26/03/2020 14:34:57 I have several of these as they're cheap and they make short work of discharging lipos **LINK**

Out of interest, what's the reason for a geared motor?

Have you tried the switch tests from Tx itself? https://youtu.be/1vRoAhhDWnU?t=39

Afternoon all, after my experience from 2 flights, I would definitely recommend beefing up the firewall to the fuselage. This happened to me earlier today whilst mid-loop af full power