Engine Doctor

I have to agree mine was a dream to fly but a nightmare on the ground. I even toyed with locking the wheels to an axle so they spun together but sold it on before modifying it. Imine had a Enya 60Fs for power with a 14 x 7 prop. The only other critisismof the construction was the flimsy sesquiplane. I overcame this by having them made from veered foam .Good luck ,hope your quick on the rudder during take off.

I now fit sealed front bearings on my engines especially four strokes that don't always get proper lubricant supply from crankcase. These bearings are used in car alternators with a significant load put on them by the driving belt and they last for thousands of miles . The ones I've fitted have/are all still fine after a few years of use. I did strip an OS 90 for rebuild a couple of years ago and that had a front seal left in the rear bearing ? This engine had never been stripped from new so seal was left in presumably by OS . The only down side to this seal being fitted as far as I can make out is that it prevents oil being drawn into the can shaft and cam followers as was evident on the stripped engine with a rusty gunge formed on the cam gear . The top of the engine also needed at good oil as rust had started to form on the rocker arms. I couldn't find reference to a sealed bearing in the parts list ? Perhaps some one on here can shed some light ?

Strange . I have never had a bearing resist extraction even with really old engines . I use a hot air gun (decorators Type not the modelling type)and a pair of welding gloves . Heat all round until "smokin" then some more . The test I was shown back in the !960's when rebuilding motorcycle engines was to spit on it and if hot enough the spit would bubble and bounce off the casing .If it just bubbles then its not hot enough. Once hot enough simply tap the case on a smooth piece of wood and bearing usually falls out . Just a long shot but Is there any sign of the bearing being held in place by punching/peening ? if there is its usually due to bearing turning in housing and becoming a loose fit or a badly machined crank case. an old bodge on motorcycles was to coat the outer race of the bearing with solder . Smaller bearings were fitted and the alloy punched to tighten the fit Definitely not recommended for model engines though. I have come across a couple of engines with loose bearings over the years both chinese 4 strokes . The modern fix without the expense of a new crank case isbearing fit adhesive"and that will release with heat .

Obviously the bidders think that the emperor has a fine suit of clothes ! Or they just have too much money ! Then of course you get the browsers with nothing better to do and bid it right up for fun ! Funny old world

Please don't mess with it. I went to many fires caused by electric blankets , some fatal during my years as a fireman . I won't have one in my house, much to my wife's annoyance. If you must have one then get it checked out properly by a professional leccy.

Hi PatMac . I did make a mistake although not a typo . I compared the pics to the pics in Mike Clanfords A to Z of engines; page 80 and thought it was the MK1 180 diesel of which only a few were produced probably as proto -type . The production model being the MK1 100 diesel alongside the 175 Sparkie . Closer comparison and looking at Allans picture shows it is a Frog 100 .My mistake sorry . The 180 has larger diameter fins and a different exhaust outlet and was probably based on the Mk 1 175 sparkie . A description and history of these so called "Bicycle -Spoke Frogs"can be found here. These early engines were regularly changed and modified to adopt better and quicker production techniques and performance . In the same article the Frog sparkie 175 transfer port is describe as "shallow milled passages" This is completely different to my example which has externally mounted transfer port . With all the people who made these engines and those that used them when new passing away , its getting harder to find facts .

I have never heard of the low Tension ground the cool being cut off at factory ? It should not cause radioproblems especially if you are using 2.4 radio .Can you not solder a wire back on? A simple switch or a micro switch attached to a sevo would then make a effective kill switch. Alternativel you could convert to electronic ignition much lighter and easier starting and then fit a electronic ignition switch but at a cost.

Never say never ! Some years ago I had a large dent made in my caravan when a prop and spinner came off a 120 that was running very nicely . Warning signs /sound were too quick to react to and prop and spinner smashed into my caravan parked in front of my garage.

Hi Steve try making them. Buy some off cuts from a sign making firm and a compass cutter and give it a go. Or paint them , airbrushing or normal brushing is time consuming but makes a project last . Have to agree about poor website updates etc. Companies concerned then wonder why they spiral out of business as regular customers find alternative suppliers. I get complex decals or stickers made at a local sign shop on Sittingbourne, provided your not in a hurry. Pm me and I'll forward his number

Hi if you know anyone who has a lathe ask them to turn the end of the spinner but to match the original lock but. I regularly turn them on my models for added safety. If your stuck pm me and I will turn it for you . E.D.

Hello Allan . The top one is a Frog 180 MK1 from 1947 . The lower is a Frog 100 or 180 Mk2 from 1948. hard to tell from the picture exactly which model it is , I would go for the 100 by the size of the exhaust port. They were low on power and the front crank case mounts and the rear mounting lugs on the very early models broke in a crash ; later models had thicker mounting lugs and were much stronger . NVA can be found at shows and swap-meets made buy model engineers . Only other supply is to buy a broken example for spares or there might be a reader on here who has one ? Good luck.

Hi Alan .A picture would help identify which model etc .A lot of engines had numbers engraved on them at that time but few records survive. Some of these numbers were I think for guarantee purposes and were put on by the shop who sold the engine . it was usually written on the accompanying paperwork. E.D.

Hi SteveO have a look at these Harvards Not a brilliant or traditional colour scheme but great flying ! PS . dont forget the Fuji !

Not sure anymore . We used to have the January sales in our LMS's but what with black Friday and Cyber Monday etc etc etc and the fact that most model shops are already cutting prices just to survive :so I dont think so .. JMO but I dont think its worth waiting . Buy it for him as an extra present , you know you want to !

Hi Martin . After reading the thread its clear that you are not familiar with the carb fitted to the Laser. Best advice would be to ask a club member who knows what they are doing to set it up and show you how its done. A fast running laser 150 is a powerful engine so get some get some real time help before you have an accident. Simply turning screws if your not sure what they do could cause the prop to throw ,very dangerous . While everyone on here means well there nothing like proper help tutoring from a club member. Edited By Engine Doctor on 19/12/2014 09:54:38

I can understand removing a ACE from his post if he had discredited the position or abused his position in some way . To simply replace them with a more complying person is wrong . The BMFA should I feel become involved in this and find out what has gone on . Just bitching and moaning will not sort the problem but simply make it worse increasing mistrust and resentment . Secret ballots by the area committee are a cowards way of manipulating power and should be discouraged. Weather or not an examiner can currently perform the necessary maneuvers is irrelevant.They had to fly the schedule when they were given the post so should know whats required. Many of the current Olympic gold medalists would not be here if it wasn't for their coaches (many of them now too old to compete) coaching them to success similar to the judges . ACE are basically judging the performance of the pilot and provided they have good eyesight that should be the only physical requirement .The suggestion that many of the present examiners who volunteered when the scheme was set up are now too old to do the job is offensive and ageist . That statement may be why Andy was not re-selected as a persons personality should also be taken into account. I dont know him so cant really comment.. New examiners have to perform the required schedule by today's standards , so who's going tell them in a few years time when their fingers aren't so nimble that they are obsolete? Providing an examiner is mentally able, willing to do the job and has integrity he should not be dismissed . Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 06/12/2014 06:44:57

For a PNP/PNF model I dont think you can beat the Century Riot . Its foam but strong and has enough weight to handle blustery weather . Cost £139-99 comes with servos motor and ESC . Just need your Rx /Tx and battery to fly. If you have radio gear then an air frame only is available for £89-99 LINK I have helped many newcomers to the hobby over the years with all sorts of models but for convenience and simplicity this is the best so far . There is also a comprehensive spares backup if needed .

In a way you can't blame the producers for portraying "their view" in films like these.I once watched an interview with David Putnam after he had made The Memphis Belle. He said that the original idea was to make a film about a. Lancaster bomber and its crew but senior RAF and Military Officers and various Government departments refused to talk top him let alone co-operate with him so he went to America ; they pay the bill so they get to choose the content.   PS the actors name I believe is Lawrence Montaigne. Edited By Engine Doctor on 03/12/2014 09:27:32

Just an observation on fitting a aileron wing to a rudder elevator model .I have a Model-Tech trainer that I teach with and do "Have-A-Go " sessions with at local shows . The kit ,when I was given it was a three channel design with lots of dihedral . I converted it to 4 channel by reducing the diheral to 1/2 inch under the tips and opted for inset ailerons. I chose inset ailerons as that is what the instruction sheet showed on the pic for "alternative wing" instructions . It flies OK with these but I feel would benefit from strip ailerons . If I were doing the conversion again I would definitely fit strip ailerons as its not a scale model and the fly-ability would be better,unless of course, you want to use/practice with a rudder mix .

It should run ok providing the tank is at the correct height and not too far away from the carb. Set the mixture a little on the rich side to allow for inertia effect on the fuel when the model accelerates for take off and climb out. When the tank is pressurised it helps over come the inertia and helps sustain the fuel supply . Without any pressurisation the fuel can surge away from the carb starving the engine of fuel causing engine to cut on take off or in steep climbs .

Let us know how you get on with take off's with the Nieuport (Legionair) . I had one years ago and it wasa beaut in the air but a real so and so on take off. Kept ground looping. I powered mine with an Enya 60 fs Edited By Engine Doctor on 22/11/2014 09:46:15

Even worse , we don't need disc's or "disks" now !

I will eat my words I tried it with a mock spar with inner spar at 13 "long and outer at 11" and it works out at approx 2.25 " under the tip with the inner panel flat.

Hello Giuseppe. If the drawing you show in the opening post is correct then of course it will work . As said the ribs at the panel roots and inner panel tip will have to be set to accommodate the angles .If it is a fraction of a degree out ,provided both sides of the wing are the same it will be fine .I have used this method when building this type of wing in the past .As you say Maths were not my strong point either but simple plans need simple methods . Give it a go .

Do let us know the out come . I believe they had issues some time ago when a friend of mine never received his order. Their stuff is good so hope you get it soon.