David Ovenden

The mode 1 vs mode 2 debate has been "done to death" many times previously. Fortunately for Tony (OP) - and any other locals interested in learning to fly - the club offers both options. So let's just be happy that the facilities and good will are there to help folk get into our fine hobby successfully.

I don't have the Ben Buckle version, but I have had several cubs over the years. RM plan version 1970s ( 72") ThunderTiger J3 cub ARTF (80"), E -FLITE (67") and the big H9 ARTF 9 (108"). None of these had washout and none of them were prone to tip stalling. So it may not be much of a problem with the BB version as long as the model isn't too heavy?

2 of us live near Alès (30). Not sure about everyone else.

I have an unused plan for the Super Robot that I got from Colin Smith if it helps.

There are a few of us Brits on the forum who live in La Belle France!

Try "cooking" it in a slow cooker filled with car antifreeze. Should be outside or in a garage with door open because of fumes. Then will need a scub to remove baked-on oil. May help to work on stubborn areas with a piece of wood or plastic to help remove really burnt-on oil.

I would use a LiFe 2s pack. Nominal 6.6v and shouldn't be more than 7.4v fully charged. Question will be whether you can get one in the physical size you need.

Sorry, I should have said in ad. WWI Willams wheels are 5"

OS FS-20 Now SOLD

Or just the one taking the photo?

As per the title, my very large garage/workshop needs to be cleared as we are downsizing. Lots of items to clear including: Saito FA-170R3 radial fourstroke with Keleo radial ring exhaust system and triple South Herts inteliglow system £495 OS Gemini FT160 boxer twin. £595 OS Gemini FT120 II (the better later version) with box . Only run a couple of times. Like new £495 Saito FA82B four stroke. Brand new in box. £240 Enya 53-4C Later version with twin needle carb and "screw-on" threded muffler. With box and instructions, £160 OS FS-20 . Bit of a collector's item these days £120 Dubro 5" treaded lite wheels (pair) New but one hub bored out to 1/4" £30 Sullivan Skylite 4.5" wheels. New in pack (pair) £25 Williams WWI vintage wheels. New in packet £25 Kavan 4" wheels inflatable treaded. new in packet £20 Williams balloon tire scale wheels 3 1/4" new old stock £15 JR 9XII transmitter with 35 and 40mHz tx modules and 35mz and 40mhz receivers Plus single channel emulater "tx" that uses JR style modules £100 All very nice items. The only issue is they are in France. I will back in the UK early Jan so if you are interested you'll need to wait and we will have to organise an payment delivery schedule that works. I will only bring items that are "sold". PM me if you are interested.

Thanks for the info Robin.

The sliders on my JR txs are excellent, and easy to find. The big plus is I can operate flaps with my finger whilst keeping both thumbs on the sticks. So, no momentary loss of control while I reach for flap switch. But of course, its whatever works best for each individual.

For me ALWAYS, flaps on a slider for proportional deployment. Retracts on a switch as its either Up or Down.

I don't see why a 120FS wouldn't fly this model nicely...... if the engine is working as it should, with the right prop. My 80" Seagul chipmunk flys great on a Saito 125 and my 85" Great Planes PT19 is a joy with its Saito 115. Neither are underpowered. I would check the timing, re set the carb, try changing the plug and experiment with other props (one change at a time to check the effects) before buying a new engine. There's a video somewhere on YouTube showing the big 85" BlackHorse chipmunk flying effortlessly on an ASP 120FS.

Great result Dale. A splendid resolution to the problem.

Thanks to everyone who has responded and contributed to the thread. What a mine of knowledge we have on the forum! I will go for yellow in the knowledge that no one can really prove whether the shade I use is the "correct" one or not.

This looks like the sort of Trainer yellow used by RCAF. At least on my screen it does.... but maybe not on yours though!

Really useful photo Eric to illustrate KC'S point re colour representation with orthochromatic film.

Yes, it's interesting that in every photo I can find of the Canadian Tomtits the cowling seem to be silver or (more likely) unpainted aluminium finish. Certainly not black. I think I'll model 140 as per this photo with the DH style wheels in yellow and with no fin flash. It will be a change from my other all silver Tomtit.

KC, thanks for additional info. The plane certainly was modified during its lifetime (as JD8 rightly points out) and may well have been repainted too. The picture of 140 in the snow with DH style wheels and no fin flashes evidences this. It also looks a much lighter shade that might suggest an all over yellow or silver scheme. I think I will go with yellow as many RCAF aircraft of that era (Tiger Moth, Siskin etc) were painted yellow. So, it will at least be in keeping with contemporary biplanes of the time. And I already have an all-silver one!

Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. Jon, I've never tried one of those B&W to colour converters. Nice bit of tech (for grass). Just got to work out a way to make the oleos attach to the wing in a way that's strong enough to stand up to everyday use! Think I'll "conclude" it was silver and yellow!

JD8 Yes, that's the sa,e plane but with a different colour fuselage. Could well be yellow. Look how much clearer the 140 marking is on the rear fuselage.

A couple more photos that don't really help much as the shades look very different. Maybe it changed colour over time? The last photo also shows these planes had a different U/C with split axles (unlike the UK planes) Maybe so they could fit skis?

When you say "they will not sell me another". Do you mean the retracts unit is not available? Or they won't sell one to you? Or they won't supply any parts to you? From the site they seem to be available. If its just you, perhaps someone else could order one for you?