David Ovenden

The sliders on my JR txs are excellent, and easy to find. The big plus is I can operate flaps with my finger whilst keeping both thumbs on the sticks. So, no momentary loss of control while I reach for flap switch. But of course, its whatever works best for each individual.

For me ALWAYS, flaps on a slider for proportional deployment. Retracts on a switch as its either Up or Down.

I don't see why a 120FS wouldn't fly this model nicely...... if the engine is working as it should, with the right prop. My 80" Seagul chipmunk flys great on a Saito 125 and my 85" Great Planes PT19 is a joy with its Saito 115. Neither are underpowered. I would check the timing, re set the carb, try changing the plug and experiment with other props (one change at a time to check the effects) before buying a new engine. There's a video somewhere on YouTube showing the big 85" BlackHorse chipmunk flying effortlessly on an ASP 120FS.

Great result Dale. A splendid resolution to the problem.

Thanks to everyone who has responded and contributed to the thread. What a mine of knowledge we have on the forum! I will go for yellow in the knowledge that no one can really prove whether the shade I use is the "correct" one or not.

This looks like the sort of Trainer yellow used by RCAF. At least on my screen it does.... but maybe not on yours though!

Really useful photo Eric to illustrate KC'S point re colour representation with orthochromatic film.

Yes, it's interesting that in every photo I can find of the Canadian Tomtits the cowling seem to be silver or (more likely) unpainted aluminium finish. Certainly not black. I think I'll model 140 as per this photo with the DH style wheels in yellow and with no fin flash. It will be a change from my other all silver Tomtit.

KC, thanks for additional info. The plane certainly was modified during its lifetime (as JD8 rightly points out) and may well have been repainted too. The picture of 140 in the snow with DH style wheels and no fin flashes evidences this. It also looks a much lighter shade that might suggest an all over yellow or silver scheme. I think I will go with yellow as many RCAF aircraft of that era (Tiger Moth, Siskin etc) were painted yellow. So, it will at least be in keeping with contemporary biplanes of the time. And I already have an all-silver one!

Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. Jon, I've never tried one of those B&W to colour converters. Nice bit of tech (for grass). Just got to work out a way to make the oleos attach to the wing in a way that's strong enough to stand up to everyday use! Think I'll "conclude" it was silver and yellow!

JD8 Yes, that's the sa,e plane but with a different colour fuselage. Could well be yellow. Look how much clearer the 140 marking is on the rear fuselage.

A couple more photos that don't really help much as the shades look very different. Maybe it changed colour over time? The last photo also shows these planes had a different U/C with split axles (unlike the UK planes) Maybe so they could fit skis?

When you say "they will not sell me another". Do you mean the retracts unit is not available? Or they won't sell one to you? Or they won't supply any parts to you? From the site they seem to be available. If its just you, perhaps someone else could order one for you?

I have a B&W photo of a Haeker Tomtit which was supplied to the RCAF in Canada. Can anyone help with identifying the main colour of the plane. It doesn't look to be silver. Could it be yellow? Or green? It's not the same as the fin flashes (red blue or white).It seems hard to belive it could be silver, especially in view of the big contrast between the fuselage colour and the Ali cowling and fuselage step. Thanks for looking.

We should get my Seafury and your Seafire flying at the same time. The 2 Saitos would sound good together.

I just checked the pressure nipple on my OS15LA exhaust. It's a 3.5mm thread.

Nice work Paul. What matt varnish did you use in the end?

1/4 scale cockpit and instruments would be much closer to 1/3.8 than 1/3rd scale items and easier to find too I would have thought.

Looks tidy to me Paul!

I cant see your video. But from your description it could possibly be the prop driver "clicking"against the D shaped drive on the crankshaft. Slight play between the prop driver and crankshaft. Does it still make the noise with a prop fitted and really tightened up?

A Farnborough Pass I think.

Looks very like you have created a very successful manifold Paul. Good effort! That Saito 100 has been transformed!

A quick update. The job has been successfully done now and the model is all cleaned up ready for the new canopy. In the end (as so often is the case with clean-up tasks) I didn't find one easy answer. However, carefully picking at the old glue with a blunt knife blade combined with using fingernails; followed by a clean-up with meths did the trick. All the original film covering is still intact and secure, and I managed not to nick the film or dent the balsa underneath in the process. Jobs a good'un. Thanks for your ideas and input.

Thanks Allan. That's what I've doing, so I'll just keep at it till it's all off!

Replacing a canopy on a film-covered ARTF that was fixed with Camopy Glue. Anyone got tips for removing the old Glue without destroying the film covering. Currently slow unpicking and peeling off seems the only option. Anyone have a better technique?