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Mark Stevens 1

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Everything posted by Mark Stevens 1

  1. You could still tease those wrinkles out a bit more with the heat gun, they'll come out but don't overdo the heat. Mark
  2. I built the Senator when I was 14 and had no trouble covering those wings. Had plenty of fun flying that one too. Mark
  3. A very simple but effective guide for you - Link Mark
  4. I would suspect yours will slope very well if you consider how it's bigger sibling (The AN-225) did here last weekend, Have a look at the pics and see for yourself Link Mark
  5. Don't think I've seen this mentioned yet but, has anyone ever tried hot glue for attaching canopies ? It seems to stick to pretty much everything else in RC Models, especially being used on some stronger jobs and it certainly won't fog up clear screens. The big plus is that it sets fairly quick and can always be peeled off and re-applied later if need be. I have a small hobby / craft size hot glue gun which will give a nice fine application of glue and have been considering using it to mount windscreens on a model. I just haven't got to that stage yet. Mark     Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 04/10/2019 05:12:08
  6. Have used them quite a few times - can't fault their prices or their service, Top Notch all round. Big bonus for me is that they are only about 20 mins drive up the road. I'm definitely going to have to pay a visit to their warehouse. I'll probably end up skint lol. Mark
  7. Posted by paul d on 09/09/2019 20:54:48: You could always fit a diesel, a paw 35 would power that wonderfully, nice compact silencer as well and you can get them new for a reasonable price. +1 on that for the diesel - you also won't have a huge silencer sticking out spoiling the looks as they are very compact on PAW's Mark
  8. Posted by Piers Bowlan on 21/08/2019 11:53:01: Or Typhoon? with a little bit of simplification regarding fuselage shape (cartoon scale). This would have been an ideal plan, a little resizing and reworking would produce a nice model. I've still got these plans put away somewhere Link Mark
  9. Very possible and quite easy to do. I make a lot of custom markings for my Models using exactly the methods described above. They come out well. This one is covered in various markings (some small ones on there too that are found on the real thing) Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 12/06/2019 01:41:43
  10. Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 05/05/2019 23:11:10: CAP have been acquired by another company and i think they are going to be reproducing them. Not sure if i can give the details, i will check on tuesday and let you know. In the meanwhile, Bobs link looks good Jon, You are spot on. Traplet publications originally took on the CAP Range of plans. These have now been taken over by Sarik Hobbies and the plans / Mouldings for both the Bubble top and Razor back versions are available. Just go to their website and type in Thunderbolt, they will come up then Link Mark
  11. Depending on how you landed it, you may need a new main board, they don't like heavy landings but are cheap enough to replace and easy to fit. The rest of the Heli is pretty tough including those motors. I've had one for 6 years now and it's still going. Bought it for a fun machine whilst building my bigger helis and it has certainly proved to be a good little flyer. Ps, the drifting to the right is normal as that is towards the direction of the retreating blade (clockwise rotation on these) and it doesn't quite have the full flapping / damping mechanism found on normal helis   Mark Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 04/04/2019 03:12:40
  12. I had this problem on a FG moulding before, all the mouldings I'd done just before it from the same batch of stuff all came out fine. I found an answer online to sprinkle some talcum powder over it and work it across the surface to cover it all, any excess is easily wiped or hoovered off with a vac. Leave the talc on for a bit to do it's job (maybe overnight) and then carry on. It worked a treat for me and I was able to continue the job as normal after that. It also happens with paints, probably more due to not working in the right temps when it is applied. The talc trick works though.   Mark Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 04/04/2019 02:59:58
  13. I would safely ignore the Hughes 500 stickers, they belong to the Hughes 500 Helicopter Fuselage which Kyosho also produced for their Helicopters back in the day. More relevant to the Magnum PI Helicopter than on your plane Mark Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 01/03/2019 04:13:02
  14. Posted by Stearman65 on 28/02/2019 22:13:08: I assume this never happened? Is there an RCM&E or RM plans catalogue available? I don't think there has been a new one since Sarik Hobbies took over the whole plans range from RCM&E, RM and Traplet publications. I do have catalogues from RCM&E (Which also covers RM) and Traplet from just before Sarik took over. The old plan numbers are still valid on the Sarik site. If you don't have a plan number, just search on the model name (or designer if you know it) Mark
  15. It's definitely a Boomerang Jet but modified for props. (Google will show plenty of pics of the original) Hard to tell if it is a kit or a home built but it's nicely done. The jet version is a popular model both as a trainer and as a very capable sport machine. You'll certainly have a lot of fun with this one. Mark   Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 09/11/2018 01:30:11
  16. Welcome to Proper Helis - You'll certainly have a lot of fun with this one as they are tough little machines and will take a lot of punishment. As for trimming, yes you can use the methods you have used to tame the bird down a little but you should also have High and low rates on that transmitter for the same purpose. I have the slightly bigger version the V912 which has the same and I've converted mine to flybarless. Ps - You could have saved yourself some headache when you moved the servo linkages by simply popping the ball link off at the swash plate and then moving the linkage to the next hole instead of messing with the servo screws. Might be worth investing in a set of ball link pliers for this job. It makes life a lot easier and they are not expensive. I have mine as a little fun machine as I normally fly much larger scale Helis. It has been with me for 5 yrs now and is still going strong. Happy flying Mark. Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 12/09/2018 02:55:08
  17. Posted by Bob Cotsford on 16/08/2018 16:32:04: I'd almost overlooked the QB20L I'd had late 80s or early 90s, powered by a nasty 25 - Taijet maybe? - that was quite a nice little GP aerobatic model, quick and simple to build and car boot sized. I still have one, it's currently under restoration. Incidentally, All of the Pilot (OK) Model plans can be found here for free download. http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/categories.php?cat_id=78   Mark   Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 17/08/2018 01:07:57
  18. As Martian suggested above, Printing your own is very easy on your computer, even using a 16 yr old printer as I am doing now. Just order the appropriate paper online, cheap and easy and it even comes with instructions how to get the best results. You can get clear paper for darker markings - Plain black stencils work well on this stuff. If you have anything with any other sort of colour then use the white background paper to allow for the best colour otherwise the markings can end up very transparent and not what you want.. depending on the colour background they are being put on, if it is a white or light background, then no problem you can use the clear paper. The white background paper is ideal for where you have white in your markings as the majority of printers will not print white. I'm just finishing off the markings for my Morley Lynx AH-7, some done on clear background paper and some on white background paper. Mark
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