Jump to content
Please be aware of scammers when using the Sale/Wanted forum areas

ron evans

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    559

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ron evans

  1. ron evans
    Hi Tosh, some years ago I bought some 6mm floormate from B&Q. It looked just like Depron but wasn't quite as strong, but at a £1 a sheet I thought I'd give it a go. I built a couple of models with it and at the time saw a finishing method on the net using glass cloth and water based poly. This worked really well, adding lots of strength and a tough finish. The models are now about six years old with hundreds of flights on them. I have since used this finish on EPP and blue foam with good results. Ron
  2. ron evans
    Hi Tosh, usually the reason for the pitch up under power with the Phoenix is a nose heavy C/G. Both my P2k and 1600 have heavy motors and 2200 lipos. I gradually moved the packs back until the models showed a gradual pull out on the dive test, and ended up with them well back under the wing. In this trim there is still a slight pitch up under power, but is easy to handle without any mixing of channels. Be aware that in this trim pitch stability is reduced somewhat, but the models still handle well. Ron
  3. ron evans
    One of my models with an epp fuz is finished this way, the glass is applied with neat poly, rough edges sanded off then a few coats of the mix, lightly sanded with a coat of poly before paint. The epp is quite flexible and will give if gripped too hard when hand launched. It's six years old and no cracks at all. I use Wilko poly.
  4. ron evans
    On the model in my avatar I used glass and the filler/poly mix on the foam fuz. The balsa sheet wing had a couple of coats of the mix, rubbed down in between. The surface is a bit chalky so a final coat of poly before spraying with a rattle can. Ron
  5. ron evans
    Yes I remember well the CB interference days. Unfortunately they didn't need to be close to shot you down, sunspot activity meant that their signal could go a long way. My clever Spektrum radio doesn't let you select the wrong model, though not clever enough to tell you a control surface is reversed. Yep done that recently ? Love the Fleet gear. I learned to fly on Fleet GG. Ron
  6. ron evans
    Hi Roy, anything I build now is electric. I learned to fly on a slope soarer in the sixties, and it was always my main interest, power flying only occasionally. when E power came along that all changed, I think the old Stuntman was the last wet powered model I flew. Kit prices do look good back then, but the flip side is radio. A servo for my Skyleader set was £20 in 1972, probably about £200 now. We've never had it so good. Ron
  7. ron evans
    Piers, as it has a foam wing a new fuz drawing would be easy, but putting it on OZ, not a clue. When I do my own stuff, drawing is usually limited to formers, the rest being drawn on to the wood or foam, then I fly the plan. For now it's back in the mouse larder, the little beasts come from the farmers field ( handy in the lockdown ). Once they bit through a bottle of PVA which ran down into a box of power tools. Roy, the model isn't going anywhere, so unless I bite the bullet and fix it , the offer is still open. If you do build one don't fit a 40, mine flew best on a 19 with no extra nose weight. It needed tail weight with a 40, and was not as nice to fly. Ron
  8. ron evans
    Hi Roy, having another look at the airframe, my original assessment of the condition may have been a bit optimistic. There seems to be quite a bit of fuel soaked wood in the fuz and around the wing centre section, with some damage too. Not impossible to fix I suppose, but a lot of work. You can also see evidence at the rear of the canopy of a repair when I got shot down ( honest gov ) You would be welcome to the airframe. but as I said, it's a lot of work. I live in S Wales. Ron
  9. ron evans
    After sitting in my garage roof space for 20yrs, my Bowmans Simple Stuntman is now very mouldy and mouse eaten. Built in the early eighties it flew for many years on a Fuji 19,a real sweet flyer even on this lower power. When that motor finally died I fitted a 40 which somehow spoiled it a bit. The model still has Futaba 128 servos fitted, and they look like suitcases compared to the servos we use now. Although the airframe looks sound enough, I doubt if it will be refurbished. Ron
  10. ron evans
    When I upgraded my old Zagi to brushless / lipo there was a big increase in power and speed. One hot day the model sat in the sun for a few hours before I flew it, and on a fast pass the wing fluttered and clapped hands. Amazingly when it slowed up the wing went back into shape, and with partial control I got the model down in one piece with one horn broken. It seems that the heat had softened the adhesive on the covering, and the extra speed caused the failure. Of course the model had been designed for lower power brushed motors, and had no spars, so an easy fix to add top and bottom carbon rods, and no problem since. Ron
  11. ron evans
    Bonzo, this delta does have a strong torque reaction even though it's only a 5x5 prop. A friend built one with a pusher and twin fins, and this one had little torque reaction but was harder to launch. Ron Edited By ron evans on 31/01/2021 14:37:20
  12. ron evans
    Like J D 8 , I have g lot of fun flying at high alpha circuits with this delta, although recovery to normal flight is ok if the power is eased on slowly. On one flight with the model far out, nose up and low down, I went to full power quickly and it went into a sort or hovering spin, I shut the power off and being low it landed without damage. I've since done this at height and kept it under control (sometimes ) producing a sort of climbing spin. If a wing climbs under power and the thrust line is zero, a little dowthrust will help, but the main cause is probably a forward C.G. needing more up elevon for level flight in cruise.Increase speed and the up becomes more effective and the model climbs. I have a wing that climbed under power and I gradually moved the C,G. back until power on or off it would fly level. I had to reduce the throw in pitch, and in that trim there was no up elevon. I did find that trim a bit wearing, the model went where it was pointed,. including straight down with no self recovery, so I moved the C.G. forward a little , and I live with the slight climb under power. Ron
  13. ron evans
    I'm in please.
  14. ron evans
    Just a word of caution about Poundland 5 minute epoxy. I bought some last year to mend a broken concrete garden ornament, and it worked very well. However, although I used it outdoors, the very strong smell was unmistakably polyester and tested on blue foam it did tend to melt it. It's possible other stores may stock proper epoxy, so test on scrap foam first. Ron
  15. ron evans
    Posted by Kevin Wilson on 08/11/2020 12:14:36: Model flying may be a sport but it is hardly exercise. A very desperate attempt to circumvent what is trying to be achieved by the latest restrictions. Looking at the age demographic of our hobby we should be the most invested in eliminating the virus. Interpret the advice as you wish, it is your friends and club mates that are staistically most likely to die. Agree with that Kevin, except the last time I climbed Mynydd Eglwysilan for a spot of soaring, it felt a lot like exercise.
  16. ron evans
    Posted by Alan Gorham_ on 13/10/2020 15:22:18: I still prefer to use a latex type contact glue for holding veneer onto foam. Obviously Copydex is readily available in small quantities but Ball Styccobond is the same stuff but in 5L bottles which is more economical if you are doing lots of foam veneer building. My "plank on box" (pic on first page) uses a white foam core with balsa D box, capstrips and t/e, stuck on with double sided tape, and a little white glue around the edges. The same method could be used to attach veneer, either partially or fully sheeted. Many moons ago adhesive backed Fablon was used to cover foam wings. Very popular in America.
  17. ron evans
    Thanks for the reply Peter. My granddaughter is getting a new laptop for Christmas, I'll try and persuade her to use Libre office this time. Ron
  18. ron evans
    Hi all. I know little about computers so have a question. My granddaughter is home from school at the moment, and gets her schoolwork in MS Office. Would Libre Office be compatible with it. thanks Ron
  19. ron evans
    Although I don't buy many kits, a f/v construction wouldn't put me off. As Matt says, in the past many cottage industries produced kits using f/v, and at reasonable price. In the late seventies I had an aerobatic slope soarer from a kit which was all f/v. The fuz had an oval section and put up with all the rough & tumble of slope soaring. Finally met its end in a midair with a Dutchman who was on a hang gliding holiday, who also flew models. ( flying Dutchman ?) The foam blew all over mountain, but I did salvage the wings. Ron
  20. ron evans
    Posted by Doctor Chinnery on 13/10/2020 08:53:21: kc - looking at the various Uglies on the Net I can see your point about the potential weakness at the back end of the fuzz - the plane that inspired my interest in trying to produce a viable veneered foam airframe is an old one I spotted on the Outerzone, the Basic 60 (OZ6946). The Basic 60 definitely follows the principle of: If it looks right it'll fly right, and it does just does look "Right". The Basic 60 also has that bit more "meat" at the back end of the fuzz which should provide just a little more strength where it's needed. (Of course a little carbon or Kevlar between the veneer and the foam would also be an option.) Hi Doctor C, if you wanted to stick with a stick, it would be a simple matter of making the tail post wider, and a little deeper. Not only stronger, but gives more gluing area for the tailplane. I had a notion to make a foam version of my" plank on a box" and this is what I did. Project is on the back burner at the moment. Ron
  21. ron evans

    ron evans posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  22. ron evans
    Did a whoopsy with this one a couple of weeks ago. On launch it went clunk as the lipo slipped back an inch or so into the fuz, ( ground crew failed to secure it properly ) The brave pilot wrestled it around the circuit, but it stalled on the final turn, and it went in. I'd already put the jigsaw puzzle of the wing together when I spotted this topic, can I join in please. The model is very simple, but might end up like Frankenstein's monster if I can't find the right paint.
  23. ron evans

    ron evans posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  24. ron evans
    Posted by Doctor Chinnery on 10/10/2020 08:45:59: Taking the veneered foam to its logical conclusion - has anyone produced an Ugly Stick type of fuselage using veneered foam? Would the strategic use of ply from the wing seat forward to a hefty firewall do the job? I'm thinking of something that would handle the loads produced by a good 46 or a 'cooking' grade 61? I'm more interested in "How does it fly?" than "Isn't it pretty!". Hi Doctor C, to see what can be achieved with a foam veneer airframe, take a look at Bryce Petersen's pretty Nieuport 11...OUTERZ0NE 6580. made over fifty years ago. A box fuz should be a simple affair, just reinforcing around the hard points. Ron
  25. ron evans
    kc ,My plank on a box hack was done this way, but with balsa stuck on with double sided tape ,and a little white glue. Hasn't fallen apart yet and would probably work with veneer too. Done a couple of flat sheet wings with B&Q 6mm floormate, covered with glass and Wilco poly...tough as old boots and long lasting.
×
×
  • Create New...