Roger Adams

I’ll play again please

Me too please

Count me in please

Nick, the answer regarding multiple displays is probably. The display does not use the i2c bus which would allow each display to have different address but uses SPI serial interface. Some st7789 devices have a chip select (CS) pin, with these devices you can connect multiple devices but only communicate with one at a time by setting the CS pin low on the target and high on the other(s). At least that is the theory. I’ve never done this but understand the theory. Googling around there is a short video demonstration of an arduino controlling 2 displays, but no explanation of how. I also found an unanswered forum question where somebody had set up 2 displays but could not get them to work other than individually. Each worked on its own but neither worked when the other was plugged in. My immediate thought on this problem is that the arduino may not provide enough power from its VCC pin to control the additional display, but that is pure speculation. Personally I think it should be perfectly possible but will need an understanding of how the library controls the CS pin, and may need to be powered other than by the arduino. with regard to to processing capacity of the arduino, in the example of this thread the arduino is basically doing nothing most of the time. With static displays like this the arduino is drawing the display(s) then folding its arms. Even making the displays dynamic, the arduino will not be very busy and re-drawing is not time critical. This is basically a trivial loading for the arduino. As has already been said the only real limit is the programming space within the arduino. This is in practice quite significant, however it’s usage is affected very much by programming technique. My advice would be get a few fly leads, and maybe a bread board so you can experiment with the wiring, and play. The help of somebody who understands C++ coding to use as a mentor would be very useful.

Google Mike Ridley radio workshop, details should be top of the list.

The #include is not an executable instruction but a compiler directive. What it does is place the content of the included file in the code at the place of the #include statement prior to compilation. The fact that one compiles and one does not is going to be due to the actual content of the file being included. included files are going to be complete library functions and/or definitions and should never be inside your own functions. The fact that one compiles is not indicative that it will work. Put all your includes outside and before the executable functions (void & setup) and all should be well.

I’d almost certainly go for the defiant, it’s been on my want list for a long time. The B17 doesn’t tick enough boxes for me at the moment. I’ve owned several mustangs of various sizes & types, not ready for another one yet.

I got a board a few years ago from Sheffield Insulations in Leeds. It was about 1200 x 600 x 50 but they did other sizes as well. I believe they have branches thoughtout the north and midlands. If you have a branch near you they may be worth contacting

Hi Beth Found my airbrush under a bush this morning, fortunately it hasn’t rained since it’s been there so all is good. Looking forward to giving it a go. Thank you very much. Roger

With my last HK purchase I altered the PayPal transaction to pay in dollars which removes the paypal conversion charges. I then used my Halifax credit card to pay PayPal. This is the card that Martin Lewis recommends for foreign transactions because there is no conversion charge. This was an experiment on a very small amount but the effect was that the debit amount on my account was about 2% less than the PayPal estimate. Bit better than Erfolg’s 3.5% inflation.

A discussion with the solicitors office managed to reduce the bill by £120 but there are still multiple queries outstanding. Following advice from the legal ombudsman the bill was paid ‘under protest’ because without doing this the house purchase would simply stall. The battle will resume in the new year. We all know that house purchase is one of the major stress points in life. For the legal ‘professionals’ to produce an invoice that is effectively over 3 times the written quotation, excluding stamp duty & land registration, hours before the due completion, with no previous indication that the cost would be any different to the quote is questionable practice. With the threat that anything but immediate payment would mean no completion this side of Christmas, it becomes completely immoral. (True thoughts would get moderated)

Thanks both for the replies. Your experience ST is where I thought this would end up. Did you have any success with the law society?

He is doing that now. It seems he has a break down of the costs but other than the stamp duty and land registration virtually everything else has a different description to the items on the original quotation. It seems an exercise in obfuscation. The threat has been clarified to be: it must be paid in full by 2.00 pm today, otherwise completion will not take place today, which effectively means kicking it into the new year. What ever happened to the ability to contest an invoice? Sorry if this is a bit of a rant, but I’m angry.

I’ve just received a text message from my son who is buying his first house, and due to complete the purchase today. It seems that he has just received a demand, out of the blue, for an extra £1000 legal fees from his conveyances. This seems to be accompanied by the threat of not completing unless this is paid immediately. Has anybody any idea if this is a common practice and if there are any options other than paying the ‘ransom’? At this time I have no idea of the justification for the addition fees, but the timing and lack of any prior indication makes me angry and suspicious.

I think mine arrived on the 21st.

I built some benches using Vance Mosher's design published on the RCScaleBuilder site: https://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9629&PN=4 I think you need to register & log in to view the forums. I built them in a home made shed and they are rock solid. They don't move if I sit on the edge (not that I do this very often ). Used flooring chipboard for the top, CLS studding timber for the top frames & 45mm x 20mm for the diagonal braces. All screwed together. In the same situation I would do the same again.

I got the other cheap copy (the cheapest I think) so that looks like a clean sweep to the forum. Thanks to kc for bringing it to our attention.

Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 07/09/2017 10:05:05: Very satisfying isn't it when you can sit back and look at that fantastic wing. 👍 just finished the first sanding session. I will sort out the hinging before I move on to the other wing.

Hi Paul, I learnt from your experience regarding the tearing of the foam when cutting. I used the templates to mark out the front edge of the false trailing edge. I then projected this backwards by 13mm to allow for the thickness of the balsa edges & a1mm gap. I then marked out the ends of the control surfaces in the same way. I then repeated the marking on the other side, rechecked everything, had a cup of tea, & checked again. I did the nervy bit (cutting) by using a metre rule & new scalpel blade to cut though the veneer along the rear edge of the wing & then the front edge of the control surfaces. The same cutting was then repeated at the inboard end of the flap. I was then able to remove the veneer from between the parallel cuts. When I had repeated the veneer removal on the other side I had a wide target of exposed foam 13mm wide. I was able to use a bread knife to cut down the middle of the exposed foam & then used a permagrit block to 'sand' the foam back to the cut veneer edges. I had intended to cut the majority of the waste foam before a final dressing, but the permagrit was so quick I didn't bother with any more cutting. I didn't separate the flap from the aileron until all the other dressing was done. The final separation was done with a razor saw because the parts are much smaller and the saw back does not get in the way. It took quite a long time but that was mainly my caution. Your mantra of measure twice, cut once, & make another was not what I wanted with the wing.😉 Not the last bit anyway. While doing all the marking & veneer removal I kept the wing in its packing, lifting the top then replacing it to turn the wing round or over. This both protected the wing from workshop clutter when manovering it, and kept it stable when working on it. I hope this all makes sense, I'll try & take more pictures in the future to save all this typing.

Thanks for waking me up Richard. Spent a couple of hours earlier today marking out & cutting up a perfectly good wing to create an aileron & a flap. Nerve racking but so far so good. Added the leading edge and false trailing edge. Just got the balsa end trims to add and then some sanding. I don't think I've made any goofs yet. Then just the other wing to do.

Hi Gillyg, if you are going to use the double ball link supplied in the kit, be aware that the two threaded rods are different lengths. If you use the long one on the wrong side you have a problem. Guess how I know This comment means that there is another construction underway, embarrassing slow unfortunately

I should have realised that you would have already seen the problem. l didn't realise that the full size had the same problem, but now you've pointed it out its obvious as soon as you look at the photographs. Good tip about the speed of deployment. I should be alright because my radio supports a servo slow feature. I will also be investigating a mechanism to prevent full flap deployment if the undercarriage is retracted.

Paul: looking at the pictures I am worried that as the flap is deployed the rear nacelle will foul the retracted wheel. I am a long way behind you guys still working on the tail feathers. Very grateful for the benefit of your trail blazing & solutions.

Mine has been hidden away pending re-delivery on my birthday next month. It's not too frustrating though cos I'm off on holiday tomorrow. I'm planning on an E version with bombs which won't look very different to the pictures Nigel posted the other day. By the time I get started I'm expecting to profit from all the mistakes that have already been made.

I've used laminate floor insulation tiles. They are about 500 mm square & 6 mm thick. They take pins easily & are simply replaced when damaged. I got some from a laminate floor shop years ago. when I told the salesman what I wanted it for he gave me a damaged pack for free. I'm still using it.