Bill Wood

I appreciate the explanation but for the last 15 years or so I have had the positive battery lead (red) with a male connector and the negative (black) with a female. As long as care is taken to shield the positive connector when the battery is disconnected then it's safe. Of course modern connectors such as deans, XT, etc are probably safer, I find them not as easy to solder as the bullets.

Why?

All this talk of diesels and contra pistons reminded me of when I had the opposite problem with a PAW 1.49. The c.p. was riding up and down on top of the piston i.e. too slack. The cure was to put the c.p. on a lump of wood then place a ball bearing of similar diameter as the c.p. on top and whack it with a hammer. Very crude but it worked. Think its called "peening" in engineering terms. Splays out the contra piston a bit.

I have a few 35 Mhz transmitters gathering dust. I would like to see an article on converting a standard 35Mhz TX to 2.4 Ghz using a suitable module i.e. what to take out and what to put in and how to test. Also what RXs could be used with the set up.

1) Super Slinky 2) Slec Fun Fly 3) Maricado

Owdlad - you mentioned that you also balance the spinner. I have asked this question on the forum before - How do you balance a spinner? With the risk of going off topic, can anyone tell me?

Just been helping my mate move his mpx Heron glider from a Hitec Optic 6 TX to his brand new Flash 8 TX. Well the instruction manual is not very clear in many areas and can be misleading, but once I got used to whether to just push the buttons or push and hold and when to use the jog dial we were on our way. Once the basics were in my old head it's a matter of trial and error and avoid sliding back down the learning curve. I am came to this forum looking for some helpful info. It's a lovely TX and we were just getting grips with it when SWMBO called to say dinner was on the table. We've just got to set up crow (butterfly) braking on a slider and camber somewhere then D/R, expo, EPA etc, etc. Anyone know if the servo adjustments can be made whilst transmitting so one can see the results live on the model because it seems we have to select "no" "not ready to transmit" before adjusting servos etc.? Also we didn't seem to be able to use model memory no.1 It always jumped to the next memory. Settled for memory no.2 which was OK. Strange??

It's the Mad Hatters spot landing comp.

Why not ditch microsoft altogether and download linux o.s.and ubuntu software.

Just signed now 6,033

Why is it you don't find many Hitec rx clones? Because the original are not too expensive so I guess there isn't a big enough market for clones but I'm still looking.

I have had some for ages, well beyond the use by date. Keep it in a cool garage and it's still usable. Of course when a pack is opened it has to be used. I have used it for repairing a model, embedding canopy struts in it, also repaired the soles of trainers and used to make stabilizing feet on an alarm clock that kept falling over. It's quite heavy so not much good on very small, light models. Use is only limited by imagination.

I heard recently that flying model aircraft has been banned in China by their government. They think that model aircraft can be used to distribute anti-government propaganda. This could affect the manufacture of model aircraft in China and hence the cheap supply over here. We may need our LHS after all. Of course there's always Vietnam, Cambodia, Philippines, Burma etc, etc. Bill

Sad to see any aircraft damaged especially a vintage one, but at least no one was hurt. My first ever flight in an aircraft was in G-AFRK a Dragon Rapide giving pleasure flights at an airshow at Church Fenton in the late fifties, I think. Maybe if I had known it was covered in doped fabric I would have had second thoughts, but I doubt it.

Hi Bob, I know you can set up spoilerons (i.e. both ailerons go up) on an MPX Easy Glider using Futaba 6EX Tx because I did it for a friend of mine. Unfortunately that was a long time ago and I don't have the TX manual. The only drawback was the spoileron (flap) control has to be set up on the rotary knob on the TX. Trying to grope for this whilst flying and knowing just what amount you've got can be challenging. My friend fitted a lever extension to his TX knob to give a more positive feel. As with most spoileron, flaperon, set ups the right aileron servo plugs into channel 1 and the left aileron servo into channel 6. Then you need to consult the Tx manual regarding flap control. Sorry I can't be more helpful. The good news is we are still flying our Easy Gliders after a few years although we both use Hitech 2.4ghz radios now and the spoilerons are operated by a switch. Happy flying! Bill

Where's the headline? GIANT COD SOLD TO MYHOBBYSTORE. This should have been splashed across all the press. It's important news to us modellers. I hope full details will be in the next edition of RCME.

Just to set the record straight with the problem with the Hitec Optic 6 Sport firmware.I'm lucky I bought my set from a local retailer - Airtek Hobbies. I emailed them and they recognised the problem and asked me to bring in the Tx and they would update the firmware to the latest version. This they did and the Tx was updated and linked to the Minima Rx in the shop. No charge of course as the Tx was only 3 months old. One satisfied customer.  Bill

Thanks Pete,It looks like I'm not the only one who has this problem. Hitec and their distributors are selling their new equipment in the UK without any mentiion of compatibility issues. Surely the firmware of an Optic 6 Sport Tx bought 3 months ago should be compatible with a Minima Rx already conceived by then. Anyway until I persue the issue with the vendor I can't go any further.  Bill

Has anyone with an Hitec Optic 6 Sport Tx managed to link a Hitec Minima Rx? I have an Optic 6 Sport Tx which works fine with my Optima 6 Lite Rx. Recently I bought a Hitec Minima 6E receiver but so far I have not been able to link (bind) it to the Tx. I follow the instructions that came with the Rx which says I need a blue light blinking on the back of the Tx, but I can only get a blinking red light ! I have tried pressing the link button for a further 2 secs. but still the red light blinks.  I have followed the instructions regarding pressing the link button on the Rx. so far no luck. The radio manual only mentions linking Optima Rxs nothing about Minima. When Airtek Hobbies re-opens on Tuesday I will ask their advice as that's where I bought the radio.  Bill

Thanks Bob,It took several attempts but I finally set the date and time correctly using your method. The time lapse gadget is interesting but perhaps a bit beyond my technical ability.

I have tried the date time set info from the chucklohr website and the 808clockset program but cannot set the date on my #3 camera bought recently. The TAG file appears on the memory card but that's as far as it goes. After switching on and off and taking a photo the date/time has not reset. The camera works fine otherwise and yes velcro fastening seems strong enough. I chucked my glider off the slope but forgot to switch on the plane, the camera was on though, and after a short flight and cartwheel landing the camera stayed put. I do recommend a safety line to some hard point on the model - I use braided nylon fishing line. It would be hard to find a little black camera in the heather!  Has anyone any ideas re the date/time?

Best high street retailer - The Model Shop, LeedsBest Mail Order -   Giant Cod Best ARTF - Multiplex Mentor Best UK distributor - J.Perkins

Age now 64 Electric SportsIC Sports Slope all types Started about 10 yrs old with KK rubber powered kits then a couple of years later with small diesel C/L.  After long lay off restarted with R/C in about 1980.

Mode 2West YorkshireWest Yorkshire Instructor

AMPAIR  ('cause it sounds nice)SMOOTH LADY   ('cause it looks like one)BRITFIT   ('cause it fits)